Are you referring to the high/lo beam mod or something different?

 

For a little more detail, the twin lamp setup on the Sport came about on the 98½ year model, so a 98 built on or before May 30th 98 is a single bulb, and built May 31st 98 or later has twin bulbs... as always there will be exceptions.

The lights I bought for my May built 98 Sport said they would not fit a Sport model, but they do.
So basically for any Sport built before June 98, use non-sport lights.

 

"High/lo beam mod"? If you're referring to the hack that keeps the low beams on with the high, that's a thing I consider to be dangerous stupidity.

The headlight relay kit I'm speaking of is one that puts relay contacts (and nice fat wires) between the lamp filaments and the battery, and the relay coils in the original headlamp circuit. The quick and easy way to do it is to just score the prewired kit from LMC Truck.

 

Why?














Blank

 

Wow! A sweet price for that, well worth that compared to DIY.

 

Chances are pretty good that if your high beams are on it's because you want to see further ahead than the low beams can illuminate -- and, being human, your eyes are going to adjust to the highest intensity light, be it direct or reflected, that they see. Any superfluous light in the foreground will rob you of distance vision because your eyes will adjust to the foreground lighting. So the hot ticket when you have need of high beams is to eliminate as much foreground lighting as you can, starting with the interior and instrument panel lights and working outward from there, including turning off the fog lights, so the illuminated distance isn't invisible to you.

Also important is to get rid of any lunatic blue tint that you might unwittingly have bought on a set of premium extra white lamps. The blue light robs you of color contrast and depth perception and increases eye strain, reducing the time you can safely spend behind those tinted lamps. The blue tint is all, and I do mean ALL, marketing. It's a remnant from the days when halogen lamps started replacing sealed beams, when halogens were both far better and far whiter, giving consumers the screwy notion that whiter is better. Halogens are better than sealed beams because they throw more light, not because they throw whiter light.

That's why driving (and shooting) glasses have selective yellow tint: It keeps the blue light away from your eyes, thus increasing your depth perception, contrast perception, and distance vision, which combine to become "clearer" vision, night or day. At night, they reduce glare from oncoming headlights by the same mechanism of keeping the blue away from your retinas.

Oops, almost forgot to add: Off-highway, where there's no oncoming traffic to be protected by the law if not common courtesy, just throw all the light you can make. The above discussion doesn't count when you've got an unrestricted ability to hurl photons to your heart's content.

 

Thank you.
And very informative.

 

You're welcome -- always glad to help!

Oh, yeah: The price on that LMC Truck relay kit is the only reason I didn't build my own. It's hard to justify putting time into fabricating something when you can buy it in plug and play form for thirty bucks. I'm not a big supporter of overseas manufacturing, but purity is hard to accomplish these days.

 

Thanks! This is direct plug and play?

 

Yup. Plug it in, route it safely, and you are done.