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Stubborn Tranny (96 Ram 1500)

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  #11  
Old 02-24-2016, 12:19 PM
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So the only CEL codes that I got were 21(TPS sensor) and 24 (O2 sensor)...which doesn't explain the tranny issues.
 
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Old 02-24-2016, 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Johnny Creeps
So the only CEL codes that I got were 21(TPS sensor) and 24 (O2 sensor)...which doesn't explain the tranny issues.
The TPS just might explain the transmission shift point problem. It's not certain, but it's logical. And the oxygen sensor should be addressed, too, because running in open loop for too long can cause the catalytic converter to overheat.
 
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Old 02-24-2016, 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by UnregisteredUser
The TPS just might explain the transmission shift point problem. It's not certain, but it's logical. And the oxygen sensor should be addressed, too, because running in open loop for too long can cause the catalytic converter to overheat.
After today's ride, I agree... wouldn't shift into 3rd, as usual, and I kicked the throttle, which stood wide open till I kicked the f**k out of it and it came back out of it's hot rod mode. Gotta wait till I get paid to get a TPS but they'll both be changed post haste.
 
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Old 02-25-2016, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Johnny Creeps
Gotta wait till I get paid to get a TPS but they'll both be changed post haste.
You'd do well to check out your throttle valve cable adjustment, too, as long as you're there. Procedure's in the manual, takes just a few minutes. Most of the TV cables on the road are running a mite slack due to cable stretch, and with the way these transmissions like to jump out of the truck at too young an age it's good to give them whatever help you can to keep them going. If you're thoughtful about it you don't really have to remove the cable end from the linkage -- adjust until there's just the slightest bit of slack, lock 'er down and give 'er a go. Readjust in very small increments as necessary, less slack to raise and firm the shift, more to lower and soften it. Once you develop the feel for it you'll be able to hit the sweet spot without much need of readjustment.

Just so it's said because it's a common enough misconception: The TV cable is not a poor man's shift kit and there's no "better than right" adjustment to be had. If you have to feather the throttle at WOT to stop bouncing off the rev limiter and get an upshift, that big bang from under the seat is the transmission trying to kick you back because you're being a jerk to it.

Ennyhoo, it seems very likely that between the TPS, oxygen sensor, and cable adjustment if necessary, your truck will get its mojo back. Please be sure to post a followup so the next guy can learn from your experience.
 
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Old 02-27-2016, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by UnregisteredUser
You'd do well to check out your throttle valve cable adjustment, too, as long as you're there. Procedure's in the manual, takes just a few minutes. Most of the TV cables on the road are running a mite slack due to cable stretch, and with the way these transmissions like to jump out of the truck at too young an age it's good to give them whatever help you can to keep them going. If you're thoughtful about it you don't really have to remove the cable end from the linkage -- adjust until there's just the slightest bit of slack, lock 'er down and give 'er a go. Readjust in very small increments as necessary, less slack to raise and firm the shift, more to lower and soften it. Once you develop the feel for it you'll be able to hit the sweet spot without much need of readjustment.

Just so it's said because it's a common enough misconception: The TV cable is not a poor man's shift kit and there's no "better than right" adjustment to be had. If you have to feather the throttle at WOT to stop bouncing off the rev limiter and get an upshift, that big bang from under the seat is the transmission trying to kick you back because you're being a jerk to it.

Ennyhoo, it seems very likely that between the TPS, oxygen sensor, and cable adjustment if necessary, your truck will get its mojo back. Please be sure to post a followup so the next guy can learn from your experience.

I appreciate that! I had no idea about the slack in that cable but when I was looking at it a few days ago, I did notice that there's a LOT of slack, so i will tighten that up and go from there... the sensors have to wait till pay day. Thanks for the input my friend!
 
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Old 02-27-2016, 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Johnny Creeps
I did notice that there's a LOT of slack, so i will tighten that up and go from there...
If you've not done it before: You should be able to remove the locking clip with just your fingers if you can get both hands to it, and the socket end of the cable pulls straight forward, toward the radiator, for removal, should you wish to remove it. Pry it off of the ball stud and you'll be buying a new one. Be darn sure that the transmission end is in the closed, fully forward position before you start adjusting -- a small bungee cord is great for that, if you've got one handy. If you get a very heavy gas pedal after adjustment, you forgot to remove the bungee cord.

Originally Posted by Johnny Creeps
Thanks for the input my friend!
You're welcome! I hope you get it all sorted.
 
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Old 02-27-2016, 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by UnregisteredUser
If you've not done it before: You should be able to remove the locking clip with just your fingers if you can get both hands to it, and the socket end of the cable pulls straight forward, toward the radiator, for removal, should you wish to remove it. Pry it off of the ball stud and you'll be buying a new one. Be darn sure that the transmission end is in the closed, fully forward position before you start adjusting -- a small bungee cord is great for that, if you've got one handy. If you get a very heavy gas pedal after adjustment, you forgot to remove the bungee cord.



You're welcome! I hope you get it all sorted.
I just gotta remind myself, one thing at a time haha! I have a good list of to do on the old girl so it'll keep me pretty busy. Thanks again!
 



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