Once you replace the switch, let us know how it's going. After that, I'm sure we can get that relay conversion wiring figured out for you.

 

I'd bet a dollar that it's the switch. There's a self-resetting circuit breaker in there that will do exactly as described, especially if the switch is on its way out and overheating.

 

Update! Last week I suddenly had zero headlights. DRL's worked, as did high beams, but I had no headlights. So that night I finally replaced the old switch (OEM from 1997) with a new one I received a few days earlier from Amazon. The headlights then worked, for a couple days. Now again, I have no headlamps. So I unplugged the DRL module, and then my low beam worked (activated by the switch, as they should be), but ofcourse no DRL's. That worked ok for a few days, but now I have no low beam headlights whatsoever. Even with the DRL module plugged in as well as unplugged, no low beams. DRL's work, as do high beams. I'm figuring I need a new DRL module, but was quoted $213 from my local Canadian dealership. Any suggestions on a cheaper alternative for me? As I said in an earlier post, I wouldn't mind having the headlights relayed, and bypassing the DRL module and just having my regular low beam headlights come on with the ignition, if that's not too difficult???

 

Well, I would start by re-wiring the headlights with relays, either using the kit from LMC or DIY. Then all we need to do is add another relay that is switched with the truck in "run." We should not need to get all fancy and have it disabled with the park brake applied. What I have done in the past is to put a loop of wire (about 20' long) in the hot to the headlights to act as a small value resistor. It will dim the headlights just a tad but enough so that you will notice the difference when you switch on the actual headlights. What kind of problems that you will encounter in your Kanuck model with the DRL module using the LMC kit is unknown. It would be handy to have a second vehicle (for emergency parts runs), time (to get us involved to figure it out), and a heads-up (so that we can put aside that time just for you). If you weren't over that magical boundary that allows the phone company to really jack up their rates, I'd even give you my phone number.


But...
As I was typing this, I hit the part about the parking brake, hmmmm. Is yours an auto? (not sure it matters though) Make sure that your park brake switch is working properly too and that it is not engaged (should only shut off the DRL's when it is engaged when you turn the truck on, not if its running then engage the park brake, at least, that is how my Taco works). That park brake wire is only a single wire that gets grounded IIRC. Does your park brake indicator light up on your dash like it is supposed to? If so , then its probably working fine. Just thinking...

 

Thinking about it some more, its very strange that I don't have headlamps when I unplug the DRL module. I checked fuses and they all look good, so it's actually starting to concern me. Anyway, I ordered the harness from LMC yesterday so I'll be installing that once it arrives.

I'll check that parking brake idea tonight...

 

Here's some info for you...


right out of the tech manual

DAYTIME RUNNING LAMP (DRL) MODULE
On vehicles built for sale in Canada, the low-beam
headlamps operate when the ignition switch is in the
RUN position and the park brake switch is OPEN.
Circuit L10 from fuse 15 in the fuse block supplies
voltage to the DRL module. Circuit A3 from the PDC
connects to DRL module.
The DRL module receives information on park
brake switch position on circuit G i l .
Circuit L4 powers the low beams of the headlamps.
When the headlamp switch is OFF, the DRL module
powers the low beams on circuit L4. When the headlamps
are ON, the multi-function switch powers the
low beams on circuit L4.
Circuit L3 feeds the high beams of the headlamps.
When the operator flashes the headlamps with the
stalk of the multi-function switch, the DRL senses
voltage on circuit L3 and stops supplying power to
the low beams on circuit L4. Circuit Zl provides
ground for the DRL module.



And a pic. You have no headlights with the DRL module removed because it ALL goes through there. We can figure this out though...

 

Interesting info there. Thanks for that.

Checked the parking brake and it engages and dis-engages as it should, and the indicator light on the dash works as it should too.

Just waiting for that relayed harness to show up now...

 

Received the harness from LMC today. Gotta say, I was expecting something of better quality (heavier gauge wiring, packaging with more english on it than Chinese, etc). Anyway, I got it installed in about 15 minutes, but as expected, the same problem persists. No low beam headlamps (due to a malfunctioning DRL module, or a faulty headlamp switch) I might try tracking down a used switch or module tomorrow to see exactly where my problem lies...

 

Okay, busy weekend but I will try to sneak in here to help...


Below is a pic of your wiring. Try a jumper in the connector that goes to the DRL module, not the module itself. Try one between pin 6 (constant B+, should not need the truck on) and pin 1, you should get high beams. After that, try a jumper between pin 6 and pin 10, you should low beams. The position of the headlight switch and stalk switch should not matter. Basically, you are just running a B+ straight to the headlights, one step at a time. Check the headlights, when checking highs, you will not get the high beam indicator. Let us know...

 

I ended up taking a company truck home for the weekend and leaving mine at work, so I'll try exactly as you suggest next week. Thanks again for sticking with me!