Exhaust Manifold Gasket Replaced
#1
Exhaust Manifold Gasket Replaced
Well, the saga with my 2000 Ram 3500 v10 continues,
If you have read any of my posts you know I have this 16 yr old truck from the RUSTBELT... with many rust related issues.
I thought the passenger side exhaust manifold gasket was leaking.. got worse.
I asked around at a few shops, most did not have the 'correct' answer to the question
" What happens if you break a stud off in the head' A good chance due to the rust this could happen.
Most all said they would be able to get it out with an easyout or drill it out and replace with helicoil.. NOPE NOT correct.
One shop is noted for engine rebuilds/heads/ trannys etc. They have engines lined up on the CLEAN warehouse floor, more heads then I could count. They had heads for the V10 and manifolds.
Owner said IF they break a stud off flush, the head come off and on the table for a proper repair. He said they do know how to get studs out without breaking them off.
Most of the studs nut did have to be cut off or broke at the manifold.. no studs broke at the head.
They got them all out with rust buster, heat and the tool that grips the entire stud. ALL came out clean.
Next he has a hand plainer that cleans up the head on the engine. He places the honeing tool over each port to get the port flat /true.
Next the manifold is trued on a flat milling machine. All this to insure a good flat mating surface.
New gasket, new cap bolts-- not studs with nuts.
He even sort of repaired the rusted heat shields, bolted inplace so they dont flap around.
2 day job. No leaks, perfect job.
Cost $970.10
WOW.
But, as I said - no leaks . Plus short 6month/20k mile warranty.
No way I could have done this job.
Good mechs do cost...
I pictures but you cannot see much.
If you have read any of my posts you know I have this 16 yr old truck from the RUSTBELT... with many rust related issues.
I thought the passenger side exhaust manifold gasket was leaking.. got worse.
I asked around at a few shops, most did not have the 'correct' answer to the question
" What happens if you break a stud off in the head' A good chance due to the rust this could happen.
Most all said they would be able to get it out with an easyout or drill it out and replace with helicoil.. NOPE NOT correct.
One shop is noted for engine rebuilds/heads/ trannys etc. They have engines lined up on the CLEAN warehouse floor, more heads then I could count. They had heads for the V10 and manifolds.
Owner said IF they break a stud off flush, the head come off and on the table for a proper repair. He said they do know how to get studs out without breaking them off.
Most of the studs nut did have to be cut off or broke at the manifold.. no studs broke at the head.
They got them all out with rust buster, heat and the tool that grips the entire stud. ALL came out clean.
Next he has a hand plainer that cleans up the head on the engine. He places the honeing tool over each port to get the port flat /true.
Next the manifold is trued on a flat milling machine. All this to insure a good flat mating surface.
New gasket, new cap bolts-- not studs with nuts.
He even sort of repaired the rusted heat shields, bolted inplace so they dont flap around.
2 day job. No leaks, perfect job.
Cost $970.10
WOW.
But, as I said - no leaks . Plus short 6month/20k mile warranty.
No way I could have done this job.
Good mechs do cost...
I pictures but you cannot see much.
#2
#3
Would your shop do just the broken off stud & and not do all that other stuff? Your engine seems awfully low mileage for a complete valve job. I'm not saying you got the shaft, but that does seem like a lot of money to toss at a 16 year old truck with "rust issues."
All the solutions I've used for broken off head and manifold bolts require that the head be off the engine. I've had great results with mig welding a nut over the stud and backing the bolt remnants out. It got the leftover bit hot enough to break it loose.
Never had much luck with drilling and easy out. And one is really screwed if the easy out breaks off in the hole.
All the solutions I've used for broken off head and manifold bolts require that the head be off the engine. I've had great results with mig welding a nut over the stud and backing the bolt remnants out. It got the leftover bit hot enough to break it loose.
Never had much luck with drilling and easy out. And one is really screwed if the easy out breaks off in the hole.
#4
NO complete valve job. Just the gasket and re-surface of the head ports and the manifold. They know their stuff, were able to get all the rusted bolt/studs out without removing the head.
Truck might be old but its in great condition body wise. Rust issues getting resolved.
The brake lines replacement is next. I have the lines fitting and tube flair kit. Hope that is an easy job.
Might replace the driveshaft universals and carrier bearing.
The truck looks 'new' inside and out No body rust.
It pulls great. ..and I do like this truck..
Truck might be old but its in great condition body wise. Rust issues getting resolved.
The brake lines replacement is next. I have the lines fitting and tube flair kit. Hope that is an easy job.
Might replace the driveshaft universals and carrier bearing.
The truck looks 'new' inside and out No body rust.
It pulls great. ..and I do like this truck..