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98 ram, 4x4, 5.9l- something strange sounding in rear!

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  #21  
Old 10-20-2016, 01:52 PM
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I forgot to tell LordLuciendar:
The fender splash guard has big a** rubbing marks on it. Drivers side's worse than pass side. Could that be the whole thing right there?

I sort of dont think that would be it, not now that I saw all the worn out suspension parts. But if the suspension was in pretty decent shape, would that rubbing on the splash guard with these giant tires cause that bump bump bump thing? Seems to be binding pretty though for it to only be a plastic splash guard rubbing?

The e-brake checks out fine. The transfer case is in 2H/ It has 4 options- from top to bottom it has 4L, N, 2H and then 4H. I always leave it in 2H.

Your #'s 1, 5 and 6 are what is going on for sure. I'm starting to get close to figuring out what to do next at this point. Anymore checks to do, or go from here then check some more after some front suspension work? And thanks too!
 
  #22  
Old 10-20-2016, 02:02 PM
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Tire size says it all. 33X12.5 R15LT, 33" tall, 12.5 inch wide, 15 inch rims.

I don't think the tie rods ends will clear those rims with the HD stuff...... Replacing rims and tires is NOT cheap.......

For a lift, you could prolly just get a leveling kit, 2 or 3", and give you some more clearance for your current tires.
 
  #23  
Old 10-20-2016, 02:14 PM
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So just replace what's under there now that's shot? Use same tires but get a 2 or 3" leveling kit to go with it, you think? No hd for me?

I see what ya mean about tires/rims. Some of em are as much as freakin new to me used truck!
 
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Old 10-20-2016, 02:38 PM
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Exactly. Even cheap-arsed steel wheels are close to 100 bucks a piece.... its insane.

A little bit of lift would prolly solve your rubbing problems on the wheel wells.

You could try the HD parts, and if they won't work, return them....... Just buy them locally. Make your life easier.
 
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Old 10-20-2016, 02:53 PM
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Yea, makes all the sense in the world, buy local, return local(if need be!)
So I guess the h/d crossover change is off the table for me unless I want to invest 2 or 3g in some rims and tires.

What about the "y"s steering stabilizer, does it have to be replaced w new one or can you just put new bushings or whatever? Like rebuild it so to speak? Or are they cheap enough. I saw this while ago-Skyjacker dual steering stabilizer- Is that an upgrade to the "y" type?

I guess it's gotta have a list,or at least a starter list, of stuff to get, like soon. I'm freakin ready to fix it n git it!
 
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Old 10-20-2016, 03:00 PM
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If it's bad, just replace it. (steering stabilizer) Mine has been toast as long as I have owned the truck, and I never bothered with it. Still drives just fine.
 
  #27  
Old 10-20-2016, 03:01 PM
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Dang! I just now saw LordLuciendar's post! Sorry bout that, missed it somehow. But now I want a "t" H/D steering stabilizer! Not a stupid "y"! But you cant make it work without doing everything else, right?

How important are "factory" parts. Sometimes aftermarket things dont work well at all with Chrysler vehicles.

Are some things better to order online for our suspension up front? Like Rockauto.com or somewhere? I guess I can wait a couple if it means saving cash. Is there anything at all I can get from you pull it down here and use? I know some stuff is forbidden to use on a vehicle from a pull a part.
 
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Old 10-20-2016, 03:24 PM
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So, are you sure that the Y part isn't supposed to be able to move by hand? Not even a little bit? Not even a half of an inch twist??! By hand! I might be able to leave it and get away with that? Then that means if I find a better one at you pull, I can use it?

Because it's tied into the ball joint at pass side, and that ball joint's boots are slit open and dried out, and shot, would it be that the ball joint is what's making it twist so far by hand and twist/turn so easily? The balljoint?

I need a short or long list to be able to get started!
1. Both lower ball joints
2. take apart my screen door and put that piece off of it onto this stabilizer bar, see how long that lasts!
3. both u-joints at the front or just the pass side's?
4. 12 pack?
5. some sort of bushings set?
6. does everything that has a slit open boot and is dried out have to be replaced?
7. I got a 94-01 Haynes for Dodge pickups, 2wd and 4wd-v6, v8 and v10 it says
8. hmm, not sure what goes on 8
9. any specialty tools at all(got lots of tools now)
10. a pwr steering hose as theres one on here thats leaking BAD!

To top everything else this heck of a deal truck has going on, the wiper motor is shot I think!
I'll get it right here soon I guess. Thx for anything y'all can contribute, it's a lot right now.
 

Last edited by marcpilot1; 10-20-2016 at 03:27 PM.
  #29  
Old 10-20-2016, 06:39 PM
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Your steering is sloppy. Time for it to go. You can replace it piecemeal, but, then you will have to use stock parts. If you want to go the HD route, then you need ALL of it. The two are not compatible with each other. Don't even worry about the stabilizer.

12 pack is for AFTER you are done.

You can download the factory service manual for your truck from here.

Really no special tools required. Couple big hammers will come in handy though.
 
  #30  
Old 10-20-2016, 08:41 PM
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The sloppy steering parts can make it fun running down the road. Good idea to change them as stated.

As for the binding, I circled the suspected trouble point in your picture.

These spin whenever the truck is moving.
These U-joints like to dry out and bind as they get older. They will do exactly what you were describing orignally.

Sounds like you've got some work ahead of you. Once all of these things are done you'll have an awsome truck for a long time.
 


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