Ok after some research, I think I finally found out where this "radio coke". I've been pretty busy lately so haven't been able to work on my truck but anyway, I think I know where it is. I don't know how to explain it other than behind the center knee bolster, the one in front of the 4wd shifter and goes over the eased part of the floor. I also found a picture:


Not sure if this picture is even for these trucks, It came up in my search one day and thought I'd give it a try.

How do I remove that center knee bolster? It lookes like the whole dash and all the thing screwed in it have to come off. As that is like one piece?

 

So this morning I started my truck, went to scrape the ice, got back in and noticed I had the clock display on the radio. So I turned up the volume, and then the buttons workes on the radio and I was able to change the station. So I changed it to something I wanted to listen to, and started driving off. A minute later, not even out of my neighborhood, I lost my station, and I got static background noise and a single tone note, and a few words from speakers, but no sign of my radio station. Once this happened none of the buttons worked at all, like it was dead, the clock display was still on, so I pulled over. I turned off the truck and started it again, I lost my clock display, and lost any life out of the raido. So it was back to where it normally was.

It seems like some type of short or bad ground, But could a short to the speakers or amps cause this problem??

 

I don't *think* so.... but hey, with electronics, ya just never know.....

 

I'm going to call up some local shops that do a lot of radio and electonics work. I wanna see what their experiences are, and possible get an opinion from them on what would be causing the problem. I'll get back to you, but in the man time, I'd also like to start to diagnose cruise contoll. I have no cruise, no light comes on on the each when I press the cruise button. Fuse is good, where would be a good place to start?

 

Make sure the vacuum line to the cruise servo is in good shape, and the cruise servo itself. It's under the battery...... so, it tends to get some abuse if the battery gets too warm, and the acid will eat thru various parts. And yes, its a pain to get to.

 

For your CC, I would start with the steering wheel switches. There is a procedure in the manual for testing them. Mine were good but my values were different than the manual. Then move on to the brake light switch at the pedal. Mine had one of the two tabs (that keep it locked in place) broken.

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...l-related.html

 

Well haven't yet hat any time to start on cc, but I was reading up on that thread, and he started off by saying he does not have wild vents. Not sure what he means by that, but I know for a fact that when I acelerate, my vents go to defrost, and then when let off the gas they go back to feet or head, or where ever I have the thing set. So just wanted to mention that since vacuum is a big part of the cc.

 

Ahhhh...

Yes, tend to your vac problem first.

 

I plan to, as those vents are annoying, but that wouldn't explain why I don't have the light on the dash. I've never seen it come on ever, at start up, or by pressing the button. All having the vacuum leak would do would not make cruise hold, but the light would still come on. I'll check that brake switch tomorrow, and also check the buttons aswell.

 

There isn't a cruise light on the dash, its on the steering wheel on yours. Just a little green lite there.