Overdrive Jumps/Bucks
#11
11-27-2016, 07:15 PM
I'm definitely going to look into the plug wires and try to separate them... I noticed that two of the wires are laying on the headers... These are "Hi-Temp 7mm suppressors". Should be dealer replacements. Should I try to get heat shields or something for these wires or not even worry about it? My guess is they will melt over time.
#12
11-27-2016, 07:20 PM
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#13
11-27-2016, 07:24 PM
If you don't, we can take further steps to point you in the right direction. (of course, you may not be thrilled with goin' there..... we are kinda like that...)
Good Luck!
#14
11-29-2016, 06:18 PM
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So I went ahead and looked up the correct way to route the spark plug wires and found the TSB 18-48-98. I did everything the exact way the TSB said to do it but I didn't have any ignition wire convolute 
With that said, I still did my best to prevent possible chafing/burning of the plug wires. I also made sure that all of the plug wires were going to the correct spots on the distributor cap.
Once I was done, I hooked the negative battery cable back up (I unplugged it before starting on the spark plug wires). I got in the truck and it fired right up just as it did before, however I realised that now the truck has a slight rough idle... and once I took it for a drive it actually hesitated a little bit under throttle and the overdrive still surges/bucks
My guess is that the resetting of the PCM allowed these two other problems to reveal themselves.
I am now almost certain that HeyYou is right and there is something causing a miss.
Given that the whole distributor assembly is new with plugs and wires and that the intake manifold gasket was replaced, what else do you guys think could be causing this?
With that said, I still did my best to prevent possible chafing/burning of the plug wires. I also made sure that all of the plug wires were going to the correct spots on the distributor cap.
Once I was done, I hooked the negative battery cable back up (I unplugged it before starting on the spark plug wires). I got in the truck and it fired right up just as it did before, however I realised that now the truck has a slight rough idle... and once I took it for a drive it actually hesitated a little bit under throttle and the overdrive still surges/bucks
My guess is that the resetting of the PCM allowed these two other problems to reveal themselves.
I am now almost certain that HeyYou is right and there is something causing a miss.
Given that the whole distributor assembly is new with plugs and wires and that the intake manifold gasket was replaced, what else do you guys think could be causing this?
Last edited by DanTheMan38; 11-29-2016 at 06:29 PM.
#15
11-29-2016, 09:21 PM
Unfortunately.... It's now time for compression, and/or leakdown test..... and see what your numbers look like. I am a fan of the leakdown test myself, but, that requires the correct gauge set, and an air compressor...... The gauge you may be able to rent from your local auto parts store, do you have an air compressor? Or a friend that has one?
#16
11-30-2016, 05:31 PM
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So I went out and decided to see if I could find a "dead" cylinder.
I did this by pulling a spark plug wire while the engine was off (I know some people do this while vehicle is running but I find that extremely dangerous) and then I would go and start it to see how it started up and idled. I did this with every single plug wire doing one at a time.
The truck idled noticeably worse with every single plug wire that I pulled. I was obviously looking for one of them to basically make no difference after I pulled it. The truck did best with all plug wires attached.
So basically I feel like I can rule out the plugs, plug wires, and the distributor... They are new anyways.
I did this by pulling a spark plug wire while the engine was off (I know some people do this while vehicle is running but I find that extremely dangerous) and then I would go and start it to see how it started up and idled. I did this with every single plug wire doing one at a time.
The truck idled noticeably worse with every single plug wire that I pulled. I was obviously looking for one of them to basically make no difference after I pulled it. The truck did best with all plug wires attached.
So basically I feel like I can rule out the plugs, plug wires, and the distributor... They are new anyways.
#17
11-30-2016, 05:39 PM
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Unfortunately.... It's now time for compression, and/or leakdown test..... and see what your numbers look like. I am a fan of the leakdown test myself, but, that requires the correct gauge set, and an air compressor...... The gauge you may be able to rent from your local auto parts store, do you have an air compressor? Or a friend that has one?
Not sure if anyone I know has one. I might end up taking to a shop to have it tested for compression. And I realized something, the ignition coil looks new and I have never replaced it... Is it possible that maybe someone put on an aftermarket one and it's causing some problems since Chrysler vehicles don't like aftermarket? Also thought about maybe a fuel injector is partially clogged/leaking?
#18
11-30-2016, 05:49 PM
Coil being crappy is indeed a possibility.... If you simply aren't getting a hot enough spark. I know that some of the aftermarket, ostensibly "high quality" coils, are known for failing with a year of installation..... Definitely something to look at.
You can do a power balance test with the injectors as well. When the engine is COLD, see what it takes to unplug them. Unplug ALL of them at least once, just to make sure they will be cooperative. Then, run the engine up to operating temp. Let the idle settle down to where it should be, and unplug the IAC motor..... (if you leave it plugged in, the PCM will compensate for the dead cylinder, by opening it up a bit more, to raise the idle...... this applies to pulling plug wires as well.)
Now, with engine warm, IAC disabled, unplug each injector, one at a time, and see how much idle drops. Record the numbers...... When you have 'em all done, see what the numbers tell you. (and post them here....
)
Where you at? If you aren't too far away, bring it over, and we can run a few tests here. I have an air compressor.
You can do a power balance test with the injectors as well. When the engine is COLD, see what it takes to unplug them. Unplug ALL of them at least once, just to make sure they will be cooperative. Then, run the engine up to operating temp. Let the idle settle down to where it should be, and unplug the IAC motor..... (if you leave it plugged in, the PCM will compensate for the dead cylinder, by opening it up a bit more, to raise the idle...... this applies to pulling plug wires as well.)
Now, with engine warm, IAC disabled, unplug each injector, one at a time, and see how much idle drops. Record the numbers...... When you have 'em all done, see what the numbers tell you. (and post them here....
)Where you at? If you aren't too far away, bring it over, and we can run a few tests here. I have an air compressor.
#19
11-30-2016, 06:11 PM
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Coil being crappy is indeed a possibility.... If you simply aren't getting a hot enough spark. I know that some of the aftermarket, ostensibly "high quality" coils, are known for failing with a year of installation..... Definitely something to look at.
You can do a power balance test with the injectors as well. When the engine is COLD, see what it takes to unplug them. Unplug ALL of them at least once, just to make sure they will be cooperative. Then, run the engine up to operating temp. Let the idle settle down to where it should be, and unplug the IAC motor..... (if you leave it plugged in, the PCM will compensate for the dead cylinder, by opening it up a bit more, to raise the idle...... this applies to pulling plug wires as well.)
Now, with engine warm, IAC disabled, unplug each injector, one at a time, and see how much idle drops. Record the numbers...... When you have 'em all done, see what the numbers tell you. (and post them here.... )
Where you at? If you aren't too far away, bring it over, and we can run a few tests here. I have an air compressor.
You can do a power balance test with the injectors as well. When the engine is COLD, see what it takes to unplug them. Unplug ALL of them at least once, just to make sure they will be cooperative. Then, run the engine up to operating temp. Let the idle settle down to where it should be, and unplug the IAC motor..... (if you leave it plugged in, the PCM will compensate for the dead cylinder, by opening it up a bit more, to raise the idle...... this applies to pulling plug wires as well.)
Now, with engine warm, IAC disabled, unplug each injector, one at a time, and see how much idle drops. Record the numbers...... When you have 'em all done, see what the numbers tell you. (and post them here....
)Where you at? If you aren't too far away, bring it over, and we can run a few tests here. I have an air compressor.
Thank you so much for the replies.Btw, I'm from the glove state... Michigan! Lol
#20
11-30-2016, 08:32 PM
Definitely will look at the ignition coil and maybe find a way to test it. I will also do your test on the fuel injectors as soon as possible. Can probably get to it tomorrow after work Thank you so much for the replies.
Btw, I'm from the glove state... Michigan! Lol
Thank you so much for the replies.Btw, I'm from the glove state... Michigan! Lol
Sending you a PM.