Radius Arm Movement
#11
After my experience with death wobble when I first purchased this truck from the prior owner, I decided to ensure that the front end and brakes on this truck were going to be the best I could make them. Nothing worse than having a 3/4 ton scud missile going down the road, which is the way it felt when I first got it at about the 120,000 mile mark. The front end rebuild I performed was pretty complete and included the following upgrades:
- Solid Steel adjustable track bar and mount bracket to replace the OEM stud style end track bar
- Borgeson steering box and intermediate shaft
- Steering stabilizer (steel bar type with bearing at steering output shaft)
- Spohn upper and lower control arms with greaseable poly bushings
- all new ball joints, tie rod ends, front wheel bearings, U-joints, etc.
- 4 new LT285-75-16 Load range E Michelin LTX-AT2 tires
Truck is now a pleasure to drive
- Solid Steel adjustable track bar and mount bracket to replace the OEM stud style end track bar
- Borgeson steering box and intermediate shaft
- Steering stabilizer (steel bar type with bearing at steering output shaft)
- Spohn upper and lower control arms with greaseable poly bushings
- all new ball joints, tie rod ends, front wheel bearings, U-joints, etc.
- 4 new LT285-75-16 Load range E Michelin LTX-AT2 tires
Truck is now a pleasure to drive
#12
I was looking at steering boxes..... Redhead, Borgeson, PSC, and stock.... Borgeson and PSC are quite expensive.... Redhead is a remanned stock box, and the stock boxes are really hit and miss...... The Borgeson shaft is a nice unit, and eliminates some problem areas in the shaft, but, you are over 800 bucks just on those two pieces. Holy smoke. My budget just doesn't stretch that far.... I need warm weather. Then I can inspect my steering, and see where I need to start. On the 96, I was able to adjust up the box a bit, and take out 99% of the slop. (rest of the steering was in good shape.) The 98 has about 70K fewer miles on it, so, maybe I can get lucky.
#13
Hello all, as we all have had steering issues with our Rams, I have movement on my radius arm bars on both sides and on both mounting locations on frame and on axle. Is a little movement normal or should I not be able to move it with a prybar? From what I can see the rubber looks ok from the outside but they do look original with 236K on the dash. Thanks...
Yes it's normal to be able to move with pry bar. If it appears rubber is separated from housing and/or bolt sleeve, then yes replace them. It will take some work to remove the arms if not done previously.
#14
You're likely clunk when driving is trackbar. On driverside bracket. That tie rod end setup does not last. Give a search and look at that.
#15
I was looking at steering boxes..... Redhead, Borgeson, PSC, and stock.... Borgeson and PSC are quite expensive.... Redhead is a remanned stock box, and the stock boxes are really hit and miss...... The Borgeson shaft is a nice unit, and eliminates some problem areas in the shaft, but, you are over 800 bucks just on those two pieces. Holy smoke. My budget just doesn't stretch that far.... I need warm weather. Then I can inspect my steering, and see where I need to start. On the 96, I was able to adjust up the box a bit, and take out 99% of the slop. (rest of the steering was in good shape.) The 98 has about 70K fewer miles on it, so, maybe I can get lucky.
#16
#17
#19
#20
U joints definetly clunk when turning if they are bad. But it would be repetitive. You will also hear a little ticking when going straight if you open the door in a parking lot and go slow with you head out the door. Sometimes it tough to tell if its a u joint but if you kick it in 4WD and turn theres no mistaking that. Check the sway bar also if you havent already.