I think PTC is a thermal cut-out.
Yes, black is ground, you were right (sometimes they have colored tracers and are not ground, sorry).

You should have 12v on brown/white in low, red/yellow in high and whenever ign is "on" on dark blue.

Don't worry about the dark green, it looks like it's a ground for the self-park function and/or the intermittant function.

G100 is just a ground location.

If you are getting 12v between the black wire connector on the motor and chassis ground, while the wipers are on, it's good. If the wipers don't work with the black wire connector connected to the motor, your ground is bad.


If all is normal and you think you burnt out the motor somehow (was it new?), then I suspect you have a defective motor and I would try another. I do not see a way that you could do any damage just by running a separate ground for the motor.






I am heading out now, to try and earn some money. I'll check back in later...

 

ah ok but shouldn't it be if the ground wire is ground when you probe it to the chassy you get 0 volts and when you put prob to positive side of battery you should get 12 volts like touching + to - but if you say prob chassy and prob the ground wire that's touch - to - you shouldn't get any voltage


in the video I have Prob wire on the ground wire of the motor and Ground - on the Battery and I'm getting 12 volts if I put prob on the + side of the battery and the ground wire of the wiper motor I get that .05volts you see in my youtube video I posted.... I figured the ground wire melted to a positive lead and now ground wire is a positive lead


and no motor is fine if you ground the wiper more to the chassy then it works fine.. but I want to fix it as before I did that I burned out the module in the wiper motor when pressure to wiper motor happens... so I guessing that ground wire back feeds positive power backwards as it also burned out the multifunction switch and I had to replace that too


ill take better videos later

 

I am not sure that I am following all of what you are saying, but I will try to explain...




You would get +12v at the motor ground if:
The wiper switch is "on" (high or low) AND you have a bad ground on the vehicle. This will also happen if your wiper switch is "on" AND the ground to the motor is disconnected from the motor. The wiper motor should NOT be moving at this (even though you are getting voltage, the resistance of your multimeter will not allow enough current for the motor to run. You get 12v but no motor action).


If you have your probe on the battery +, you should get a +12v reading if:
you connect the other probe to the motor ground AND it is connected to the ground connector for the motor AND it is a good ground connection (to the frame, battery, or whatever).


Yes, you should get 0v if you probe battery negative to motor ground IF the motor ground connector is still attached to the motor AND it is a good ground connection. For this test, I would rather use the Ohm function on the multimeter and test for resistance. It should be close to 0 ohms.


When you put your probe on the battery positive and on the ground of the motor, you were measuring voltage across the motor. it is doing what we call "dropping voltage" across the motor, .05v.




To me, it really sounds like you just have a bad ground, either at the motor connector or the wire from that connector or where that wire ties into other grounds (probably under the battery, which is where a lot of people have grounding issues. I did not follow the wiring drawings enough to see where that ground exactly is, but I will now).


Where do you live, BTW?






.

 

Here is the ground location, maybe under your battery, maybe by your cruise controller.


The picture is a little hard to visualize, but it is like you are looking at it from the driver's seat. Above and to the right of where it says "Fig. 16.......,." you will notice a little arrow that says "FWD" (forward) on it. G100 is in the middle area of the diagram, kind of to the right a tad.

 

ah ok I follow now ya that's what I was getting as I didn't have ground hooked etc... I took the wiper motor off and measured it and wasn't getting 12 volts on that ground wire where I thought ground and +12 volt wires melted together to be 1 wire...


so like last year I bought a wiper motor for 106 bucks and had it on there and I had a new 12 gauge wire I used for ground to frame of truck to the motor it worked... till it got some I guess pressure on the wiper arms.. and it re burned out the wiper motor but it didn't burn out the wiper motor to use high or low if you bypassed it... only through the multifunction switch....


is there a way to protect the motor from burning outs its module or protect whatever is causing this **** to burn out... when there is a load .... my GM cavaliver if your wipers frozen to windshield even if u turn it on it doesn't burn out the motor.... as I cant afford replacement motors.. but why do they not burn out but this truck does... and is there anything I can stick in there so if it is having too much resistance instead of burning out the motor or multifunction switch it would like a light bulb for example.... something to protect it like a fuse...


I appreciate the help so far .... and the cruse control is on the steering wheel


and I'm located Ontario Canada


couple hours east of Toronto

 

I'm not at home right now but, IIRC, there was a separate fuse for the intermittent function and a relay.

 

not sure what the IIRC is but no worries if you not home I appreciate it all the help


I did noticed if I had the delay working.. no motor hooked up and I had the prob for voltages on the green wire in the harness and I put other prob on the Postive side of the battery it caused the relay to stop clicking... not sure what that means..
I just don't wanna hook back up without knowing I cant burn out the damn motor again.. they aren't warrentied when you burn them out lol

 

If
I
Recall
Correctly

IIRC


Fuse 6 (25 amp) appears to be the fuse for the delay circuit. When you put your probe on the dark green wire, was the harness connected to the motor? If not, I'm not sure why the relay would stop clicking. Maybe try swapping that relay with your horn relay (or a different, working relay), to make sure it's working okay.

I don't know the amp draw on the wiper motor but you could always put an additional fuse in the circuit. You could add it in the ground side, in your "new" ground wire. If the motor doesn't have an amp spec on it (probably not) you could start with a 5 amp fuse. On a nice day, try the 5 amp fuse if it blows, try a 10. Do this until the fuse doesn't blow, then when it gets under a heavy load (like snow) and draws more current, it should blow.

It looks like the 25 amp fuse is the only fuse for the wiper circuit (but it is also for other things). Just add your own fuse into the circuit like I suggested to give you some peace of mind.


Meanwhile, I will see what I can find out about the actual amp rating of the wiper motor.

 

ah ok learn something new everyday IIRC


ya I didn't have the motor hooked up... I just set it to the high delay speed and I was testing the power what was flipping on and off and I thought I had power on the ground but I didn't as I had the wiper motor hooked up so power was coming through... so I had it off and didn't get power


but ya dark green wire when the prob set on it and I put it on the positive lead of the battery it stopped clicking... and I had the probe set to volts..


didn't do it for any others....


and is it ok to put a fuse on the ground side always thought fuses have to be before the thing you trying to protect... and I read somewhere else if you switch wiper motors you gotta have the wiper module reprogrammed what the heck is that... I read it on a different form trying to see if others had my issues.. and when you change motors you need garage to update the software or something like what the hell.. as I was going to in end rewire the motor to a toggle switch fast or slow or off lol


is it common for this to blow wiper motors? or don't they have protection how come like my gm car doesn't blow but this truck does..


it is frustrating especially when the car store doesn't honor wiper motors if they burn out on you... so I wanna make sure nothing can go wrong before I try again.... even mf switch is 300 dollars and


I appreciate the help no one replied from automotiveforums website its like no one uses it anymore

 

The benefit to having the fuse in the positive side is that if the motor itself shorts to ground, the fuse will blow. It would bypass the ground fuse that you installed. Yes, it would be better, but not necessary. If it's easy, I would put it in the positive side. It's all up to you.


It looks like wiper motors run from less than 5 amps to 15 or so. Is there a spec plate or stamping on your wiper motor? A part number that I can google to try and find the rating?