12 means battery input to PCM discoonected within last 50 key on-oof cycles. Means nothing right now.

45 TRANS Overdrive Solenoid Circuit. An open or shorted condition exsists in the trans overdrive circuit.

37 Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid circuit. An open or shorted condition detected in TCC Solenoid circuit.

OR

Trans Temp Sensor voltage too LOW or too HIGH at sensor.


15. No Vehicle Speed Sensor Signal. No vehicle distance (speed) sensor signal detetected during road load conditions.

21. O2S Stays at center


or

O2S Shorted to voltage....(you need a DRB tool for either diagnosis).


32. EGR Solenoid Circuit. An open or shorted condition......blah blah blah.


or

EGR System Failer



Hey Mean....lol. If it's not obvious by now, I am pretty sure that you have a major electrical problem. Major like bad grounds, or something is just not connected properly. Your PCM is bolted down, the battery cables are good, the woven ss ground straps are intact?

I am FAR from a pro but I know how to narrow things down. You might have noticed a repitition of the words "open or shorted condition".

I hope this helps. You need to look at things carefully. Make sure you don't have a pinched harness, crushed wires, blown fuses, etc.

Please be sure and let us know if you can.

Good luck with your ride

 

Well i took the vehicle speed sensor back out on a hunch that it may not be meshing together and i was right when i bought the truck the kid said he took the transfer case apart to see if anything was wrong with it. So he put the speed sensor in upside down(they are offset) so when i changed it i put it in the way i took it out which was wrong. I also decided to shut the garage lights off to see if any plug wires were arking because as i mentioned before it was running rough more like surging going down the road. Didnt see any sparks but the coil wire did glow when i ran the rpm's up so i changed it didnt do much though actually i think it got worse so i put new plugs in it all looked good except one it was pretty black. Well that didnt help any either so i figured i pretty much ruled out plugs and wires.Then i got the idea to unplug that injector (were the black plug was) and it smoothed out so i changed the injector nothing so i put a third injector in it nothing again so ive been through all the posiabilities by now and im ready to ram its dodge *** into a tree at 90 miles an hour cuz now i can see how fast its going right. But before i do that i decide to pull that plug to see if its fireing all the time and the plug wire pulled right in half (it could have done this when i changed the plugs and saved me a whole lot of hassel so i put a diff. wire on it and it runs good so i put all new wires cap and rotor on it so all that is good. now it still won't shift into overdrive. the button on the dash has power to it but the light wont light up so thats my next mission. i unhooked the battery to erase the codes and the speedometer code went away. so now the codes are 12, 45, 37, 37,32, 21.not sure why the 37 code has to come up twice every time either.I know for sure the o2 sensor is unplugged the wires are ripped out of it and its not that important to me to go spend $40 on one.

 

My 94 Ram is giving me codes 32, 37, and 46. I have only had it a couple of months. Starting to really hate this truck. Tranny is slipping and dont seem to want to shift. And sometimes it sonds like metal on metal cuming from under truck. Not sure what it is. anyone with similiar problems? Wondering if i should just get rid of it while i can. And the overdrive button, when its lit up does that mean overdrive is off? or on? confused.[:@][:@]

 

Ram, the OD is off when the light is on

 

On 1994-1995 Rams the electrical wiring for the TCC and OD solenoids
cross from the driver side over to the passenger side along the bottom
of the valve body. The 3 wires are twisted together and can short
against one another or to the metal of the valve body. You can drop
the pan and carefully inspect these if you are getting the code 37.

The TCC and OD solenoids are sold as one replacement part
and usually run about $40-60 at the dealership. Changing them
is not out of the question...but you do have to get the plug out
of the trans frame on the driver's side which can be tricky.

However, most of the time on a high mileage 46RH those codes
mean that the transmission should be pulled and rebuilt.

It is better to rebuild the trans before the planetary gear sets get
torn up in a big internal failure. Each planetary that you lose
costs an additional $150 or so

If you do rebuild the trans, my personal opinion is to buy a NEW
torque converter rather than a rebuilt one. The new one only costs
about $100 more.

 

[&o]thank you for your help. it sounds like i'm rebuilding it. and getting new torque converter.

 

I have a 94 Dodge Dakota and I would like to know if the torque converter solenoid is on the inside or outside of the transmission and how to change the part?

 

Inside. Drop the pan, change fluid and filter as well. (about six quarts is safe, put in four, check it, go from there.) Change the TCC and O/D solenoids as a set. It can be done without dropping the valve body..... but, it's *interesting*.