nice ink.

is the rotor the same as the old one? that scarring isn't cool. is the cap warped? maybe its not shaped right.

 

First off, again, thanks for all the feedback. Makes this a wee bit less frustrating; though I assure you the frustration factor is through the roof. I've all my wires off, cleaned them up again, tossed on plastic covering from my old wires. Also, these MSD wires came with little number markings, though those are up against the boots that go onto the dist. cap to make it easier to set the order.

I've spent the last two hours racing around Vancouver trying to find the wire clips I need with no luck, so I've picked up some red zap straps in an attempt to fashion a temporary fix. I've also picked up a new cap and rotor, and will be sure to REALLY fiddle with it in there and make sure it's seated properly. Hell, I decided to pick up some TB cleaner too. Didn't realize plugs, wires, cap and rotor were a two day job. Go figure.

Alright, time to get started. Again... Again. And thanks for the ink comment, yeah, I'm pretty happy with it. Forgot that was on there!

Chad.

Edit: Check this ****... So I'm back there, REALLY taking my time to make sure it seats properly. Rotor is on, I'm putting on the cap and there is a bit of wobble. Not a lot, but enough to make me wonder. I put the cap to the side, and begin feeling around. I feel the sensor, it's planted nicely, but as I run my finger around the edges I notice something that feels... "rough" right at the point where the cap seats up against the back of the motor. I start scratching at it, thinking it might be some corrosion. It's a PEBBLE! A little pebble had somehow got up in there and was there JUST enough to make the cap sit wrong. Anyways, had to share that info before finishing up.

Chad.

 

All Done.

After a very slow process (actually, it wasn't a bad speed now that I know that engine bay so well) of weaving the wires in a process to avoid crossing except at 90 degree angles and following the TSB, I'm all done. I believe that pebble had a lot to do with it - How sad. A small little object was the cause of all my frustration.

When I first started her up, she sounded a little odd, but after a few rips around the block, topped up the fuel, and some heavy footing it feels a bit better now. Really getting something of a suction noise though, but not too worried about that since I ordered in a Mopar Performance Circular A/C - Just like that one that' Silver_Dodge has on his rig.

I took a few pictures of my engine bay for others to look at. I know someone had been asking for pictures of an engine bay anyways, so they are linked to my photobucket here:

http://s95.photobucket.com/albums/l135/C_Thain/

Thanks for ALL the help!

Chad.

 

Now don't you feel better. The suction noise could easily be the air cleaner assembly not being seated. They are also sometimes a pain. Make sure the gasket is good between the throttle body and air cleaner assembly.

 

It looks pretty old and worn, actually; however, I don't plan on touching that until next weekend. I ordered the new air cleaner and will be sure to get a new gasket when I pick it up. And yes, I feel MUCH better

 

ok im having similar problems with my car....can anyone give me some advice?

My friends boyfriend who supposedly was an expert and pulling apart and putting back together a car....
offered to help me change the spark plug wires...I thought he knew..that they were numbers and the order of the plugs..because he just started plugging them in...as if he knew what he was doing...anyways..when i turned on the car, there was an explosion and sparks....i think he placed the wires incorrectly and now the car...only cranks but doesnt turn on...

we tried putting the old spark plug wires...this time...i told him to look at the order of the numbers...but nothing...only cranks but doesnt turn on....

Is my only alternative, to seek a mechanic and spend a fortune?

Thanks

Cele

 

maybe not, but it will take some investigation and patience. what you have to do is
1. identify the engine's cylinder numbers
2. identify the position of the spark plug wire for cylinder #1 on the distributor. sometimes its marked.
3. identify the firing order of your engine.
4. identify the rotation direction of the distributor.
once these are known, you can them connect them in the proper order.

v8 5.2/5.9 example.. from a Haynes or similar service manual.
here is everything in one pic.... esp 1. and 3.
2. distributor position of cyl #1 is marked on the cap with a 1. also on the doc
4. you can remove the dist cap and crank the motor over to observe rotation direction. also on the doc.
then you simply start with #1, then 8, then 4, then 3, etc.

 

Hi Chad,

I went through basically the samething with my 97 - 5.2, ended up being one position offon the distribution cap. The truck started and ranok until it came to being under a load condition and then it ran rough. If yours is anything like mine you can hardle get to the cap, let alone put the wires on the cap and then install it like you can do with the Chevs.

Don

 

The ignition wires to be especially careful of are 4 & 8 on the right side and 5 & 7 on the left. You want to keep them as far apart as possible as they fire consecutively in the order. In general wires can cross each other at 90 degrees but avoid parallel runs.
Regarding the cap/rotor, if the rotor made the scoring inside the distributor, then the rotor was dragging and as a result so was the distributor. It would be as if there were faulty bearings and the distributor can't keep up with the revs. In turn that would throw off the timing. This would not be as noticable at idle but at speed, and if severe enough, it could even cause backfire.
Let us know what you find.
WC

 

For ThainC, in the future I would eliminate the dielectric grease all together...unless you plan on submerging your truck in pretty deep waters and even then it would probably keep chugging along.

FYI...dielectric is the scientific term for insulator