2nd Gen Ram Tech1994-2001 Rams: This section is for TECHNICAL discussions only, that involve the 1994 through 2001 Rams. For any non-tech discussions, please direct your attention to the "General discussion/NON-tech" sub sections.
which can clean and test 8 injectors at a time.
There is an added advantage to this, because after testing you can install the highest flowing injectors in cylinders 7 and 8, which in most 5.2/5.9 V8s need a richer mixture to keep from pinging.
My Dodge dealer has a device that bypassed the fuel intake so special cleaning agents can be run through the injectors (probably the one listed above). It's costs about $80 to service. Personally, I run Lucas Fuel Treatment and at every oil change (3k) I run a solvent based cleaner through the tank with hopes that it keeps the in-tank fuel filter clean.
2001 1500, LB, Extended Cab, 5.2, 4.56, 285/75R16, Dynatech High Flow Cat, Flowmaster Big Block 50, 3 inch exhaust, Hypertech 87. Fastman 50mmTB, 14x3 K&N
1500 V6 3.9L FI
I had a huge problem with my truck. I kept getting misfire errors, and a fuel bank too lean. At first thought maybee it had something to do with the plugs and spark plug wires. Yeh they needed to be swapped out any way, although no change in the ****ty gas mileage. I put a new coil in, recomendations of a buddy ,although it had passed the check out in the haynes manual. No difference. Then I decided to get into it. I pulled the Valve covers, throttle body, fuel rail and all the injectors. I broke down the throttle body ( not much to it ) cleaned it up real good. I used a can of throttle body cleaner in this by itself.Air Intake Controller is was practically closed with so much carbon. Cleaned it & Set it aside. I relived the pressure on the fuel rail then pulled out the 4 bolts holding it on to the Intake. Sprayed a buch of carb cleaner in the Air Intakeand touched it up with Q tipsthen vacumed it out with the shop vac . All the injectors came out the O ring kit was $2.00 at Auto Zone. Cleaned all the injectors sprayed carb cleaner in each one from both sides and hit the tops & bottoms with a Q-tip. Greased the injectors & the new o rings with some vasoline ( germans call it weiner slider ). Cleaned the ports on the fuel rail same method Q-tips and Carb cleaner. Went ahead and cleaned around the valves and spiffed up the valve covers. Before I put the fuel rail back on, I blew it out real good to make sure there was no Q-tip fuzz on anything else. End result better gas mileage and no more error codes. Spent about 10 buck and took around 3 hours with the boys helping. 1 can throttle body cleaner, 1 can carb cleaner, 1 small box q-tips, & O-ring kit......Hopefully this helps J
Vehicle: 2007 Ram 1500 4x2 Big Horn aka The Silver Bullet
Location: Norman, Okla-mobile-homa
RE: Best way to clean Fuel Injectors?
The best way to clean injectors is to use a sonic cleaner. Look for a jewelery sonic cleaner at Wal Mart, Sam's, or some other kind of store. The basket has to be large enough to hold the injector. Mineral spirits work well as a solvent. Just fill the reservoir with the solvent, dunk the injector, and let the cleaner run its cycle. Three of my eight injectors were clogged when I rebuilt my engine, and I had a friend who owns a jewelery store clean them. They looked brand new and have been trouble free since. From that point on, I run a bottle of Lucas injector cleaner and lubricant about once per month through my engine.
I... I don't know exactly how to put this, sir, but are you aware of what a serious breach of security that would be? I mean, he'll see everything, he'll... he'll see the Big Board!
I am 18 years old and no where near a "real mechanic" but boy will I SWEAR by Sea-Foam! ^^^
Just pop off a vacuum line, pour some sea-foam in a cup, have your friend work the throttle so the motor doesn't stall, and keep dipping the vacuum line into the cup. After you've used almost all of the sea-foam in the can, pour what's left in the cup, tell your friend to stop working the throttle, and dunk the vacuum line into the cup, letting the motor stall itself out (hopefully). After it stalls let it sit for a good 10-20 minutes, depending on how long you're willing to wait. Start the vehicle up (it might take a few moments). After it's started rev the motor to red line, then 4k, then 3k, etc... Then rev to red line a few times. Keep revving the motor until no more smoke/soot is pouring out the exhaust and PRESTO! Your ****'s clean! (Make sure you re-connect the vacuum line; I prefer to use the vacuum line on the brake booster as it seems to have the most vacuum)