So, if they are so easy to do, why is there no DIY? Changing your truck's oil is the simplest things you can do to your truck, but I did a DIY for those who didnt know.
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As I understand it, the torque values in this procedure are incorrect.
Everything looks ok there.
What you have to look out for is when you are tightening up the lock nut, make sure that it does not turn the adjuster, because it will, you will have to hold the adjuster still while you tighten the lock nut.
The lock nut torque spec is irrelevant because you cant just slap a torque wrench on it, you will mess up the adjuster screw. I keep the adjuster screw adapter socket on the adjuster and use a regular wrench and tighten. That way i keep the adjuster screw from turning, keeping bad adjustment correct.
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Professional Transmission Technician
86 Monte Carlo SS (waiting turbo buick swap)
84 Camaro z28 (ls1/t56 swap in progress)
92 Acura Integra (daily driver)
What you have to look out for is when you are tightening up the lock nut, make sure that it does not turn the adjuster, because it will, you will have to hold the adjuster still while you tighten the lock nut.
The lock nut torque spec is irrelevant because you cant just slap a torque wrench on it, you will mess up the adjuster screw. I keep the adjuster screw adapter socket on the adjuster and use a regular wrench and tighten. That way i keep the adjuster screw from turning, keeping bad adjustment correct.
I used torque wrench on the torx adjuster and hand torqued the 5/16 by hand... hell, I've wrenched so long I can "feel" 6 ft lbs awful darn close. I don't get why some guys are finding this so scary?
Like my Dad always said..."If everything else fails read the directions (service manual)".
Your right not hard at all to do. At 100K miles it was a big change between what it was before and what it is now. I almost "cheaped out" and used my SK 0-100 ft/lbs torque wrench but my conscience got the best of me and I bought a descent in/lbs one. There was quite a difference between my Ft/lbs wrench at 6 and what the in/lbs was at 72. My guess the SK is not that accurate that low. Oh I did the locknut trick a little different I marked a reference at 72 in/lbs on the case and then backed off the adjustment screw so that once the locknut was tightened to the tq spec it was in the correct position.
Your right not hard at all to do. At 100K miles it was a big change between what it was before and what it is now. I almost "cheaped out" and used my SK 0-100 ft/lbs torque wrench but my conscience got the best of me and I bought a descent in/lbs one. There was quite a difference between my Ft/lbs wrench at 6 and what the in/lbs was at 72. My guess the SK is not that accurate that low. Oh I did the locknut trick a little different I marked a reference at 72 in/lbs on the case and then backed off the adjustment screw so that once the locknut was tightened to the tq spec it was in the correct position.
Don't know if your wrench was the clicker style or not, but my dad (retired engineer) calls them a gimmick. After all, they have to be recalibrated regularly whereas the bar style don't. A friend of mine scored a fantastic bar style in/lb torque wrench off of E-Bay for $15.
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I have a question with the 5.2l transmission. When taking off at low speed and making a turn righ or left or sometimes from a stop, the transmission slips and catches after a short period of time. This is atarting to happen daily as the fluid is at the full level. the reverse lights as well do not go on when shifted but do flash on and off as you are shifting from park to reverse. So, is just the linkage out of wack and can the bands cause the transmission to slip at 122,000 miles?
