OK, first off, continuation of my other thread about the rear main.
got everything back together.
started last night, PISSING coolant.
got a new heater return pipe/o-ring = FIXED that leak.
NOW
there is a "bulging" if you will, of coolant from the front drivers side oil pan bolt, the one that goes into the timing cover.
causing coolant to run all down the lip of the oil pan/dust cover, this took awhile to fix.
NOW, question..
option A.) remove the first few oil pan bolts on each side of the engine, put a ton of liquid gasket on the leaking corner (even though i "thought" i put enough black RTV on it when i put the pan back on) and try that.
or B.) spend the 18 or so hours and take EVERYTHING back apart.
or C(which i am very close to at this point). go finance a new silverado.
this whole damn thing has been a huge headache.
any help would be great.
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1996 Ram 1500 SLT Laramie 4x2
152K miles
General Grabber UHP 245/70-16
Gibson Supertruck Exhaust (for SMOG) Turndown from after cat.. (normal driving)
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If you are getting coolant leaking from one of the bolts on the timing cover then it is because that bolt hole must infiltrate a water jacket in the block. Put thread sealant on the offending bolts and reinstall them. Give them a little time to cure up and you should be good to go.
__________________ 1997 1500 4x4 club cab, Flowmaster true duals 2.25" with high flow cats, 4" Skyjacker susp./3" body, Cowl Induction hood-non-op.
Vehicle: Ram 1500 4x4 5.9 auto reg cab 8ft bed Cherry bomb muffler k&n intake.
Location: Malvern Pa
Posts: 6,821
Quote:
Originally Posted by speeddemon31176
If you are getting coolant leaking from one of the bolts on the timing cover then it is because that bolt hole must infiltrate a water jacket in the block. Put thread sealant on the offending bolts and reinstall them. Give them a little time to cure up and you should be good to go.
Come on speed u wont get on aim and now yr shooting down his plans on a new truck??? whats with you today?
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2001, 1500, 4x4, 5.9L, 3" top gunz lift.
Work that needs to be done, 4.56 gears and locker.
Hey give me a minute I just got on here. I leave this site up on my comp all the time. I do not leave aim going all the time though. I got pics for you of the bar light too.
__________________ 1997 1500 4x4 club cab, Flowmaster true duals 2.25" with high flow cats, 4" Skyjacker susp./3" body, Cowl Induction hood-non-op.
Vehicle: Ram 1500 4x4 5.9 auto reg cab 8ft bed Cherry bomb muffler k&n intake.
Location: Malvern Pa
Posts: 6,821
Quote:
Originally Posted by speeddemon31176
Hey give me a minute I just got on here. I leave this site up on my comp all the time. I do not leave aim going all the time though. I got pics for you of the bar light too.
I would say fix it and buy a new D O D G E!!!! why not?
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2001, 1500, 4x4, 5.9L, 3" top gunz lift.
Work that needs to be done, 4.56 gears and locker.
Why make payments on something in this economy when you own a perfectly good vehicle free and clear. new is always nice but after a few months the newness wears off and it's just another truck but with payments then and if something breaks that isn't under warranty now you have to pay to fix it and still make your payment.
__________________ 1997 1500 4x4 club cab, Flowmaster true duals 2.25" with high flow cats, 4" Skyjacker susp./3" body, Cowl Induction hood-non-op.