car? i thought you had a 2000 ram, which is a truck.
anyway, the passenger seal is inside the cad unit. you have to take out the passenger axle shaft/hub/brakes/cad unit to get to it. you will be under the truck looking at the back of the axle. on mine there was a stop in the axle tube for the seal so it would only drive until it hit that. i had to make a slide hammer to drive mine in. the slide hammer was washers, nuts, threaded rod, masking tape and a sledgehammer head.
i put tape around the threads on one end so i wouldn't chew up the new seal and put it through the new seal then attached the nut with a washer that is the same diameter as the inside of the axle tube, so it went nut, washers, new seal going from driver to passenger side.
on the outside of the axle tube i had the sledgehammer head over the threaded rod with a big washer on the end.
i was under the truck making sure that everything stayed lined up and had my dad hitting the slide hammer until the seal was driven all the way in.
you will want a good penetrating fluid for this job. see if you can find one of these: CRC Knock'er Loose, Cyclo Breakaway or AeroKroil (otherwise known as Kroil oil made by Kano labs). those fluids just take a spray and a tap a few minutes (to an hour, depending on rust) before disassembly and the nuts/bolts will come out with ease.
if you use wd40, pb blaster or liquid wrench, then plan on having to spray every day for a week before they start to penetrate.
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car? i thought you had a 2000 ram, which is a truck.
anyway, the passenger seal is inside the cad unit. you have to take out the passenger axle shaft/hub/brakes/cad unit to get to it. you will be under the truck looking at the back of the axle. on mine there was a stop in the axle tube for the seal so it would only drive until it hit that. i had to make a slide hammer to drive mine in. the slide hammer was washers, nuts, threaded rod, masking tape and a sledgehammer head.
i put tape around the threads on one end so i wouldn't chew up the new seal and put it through the new seal then attached the nut with a washer that is the same diameter as the inside of the axle tube, so it went nut, washers, new seal going from driver to passenger side.
on the outside of the axle tube i had the sledgehammer head over the threaded rod with a big washer on the end.
i was under the truck making sure that everything stayed lined up and had my dad hitting the slide hammer until the seal was driven all the way in.
you will want a good penetrating fluid for this job. see if you can find one of these: CRC Knock'er Loose, Cyclo Breakaway or AeroKroil (otherwise known as Kroil oil made by Kano labs). those fluids just take a spray and a tap a few minutes (to an hour, depending on rust) before disassembly and the nuts/bolts will come out with ease.
if you use wd40, pb blaster or liquid wrench, then plan on having to spray every day for a week before they start to penetrate.
I had the whole front end apart like 2 months ago or whatever it was. Did ball joints and all that. I must have tore the passenger seal when I put the axle back in, because that is when it started leaking.
I understand how you guys did the seal install. I wonder if I can use my portapower to press it in. I wonder what the dodge tool looks like.
So on my 2000, passenger side, was really easy.. Remove the Caliper and rotor, axle nut, bearing, and axle.
Remove the cad unit set asside.
Using a long 3/8" bar knock the seal out.
Put the new seal in place. I used a peice of like 2" exhaust pipe which fit inside the seal, and a long pry bar. I evenly pressed the seal in. The exhaust pipe allowed me to provide even pressure on the outside edges of the seal while pressing it in place so it didn't warp or tear. I found this much easier than using threaded rod, and it took like 90 seconds.
Had the hole thing done in under an hour on the lift.
Don't forger to put a little grease on the seal before reinstalling the axle, as you don't want the initial run to be dry.
nice. do you have a picture of your prying method? or a good description of how you did it.
Didn't take a picture but..
The inside diameter of the seal is dead nuts on with the outside diameter of like a 2 1/4" (or something like that) exhaust pipe. I had one lying around. So what I did was cut 1" off the pipe, and it inserted into the seal so it just pushes on the metal cage of the seal evenly. You push the seal into the axle tube where it seats, then you use a prybar (or two) prying evenly on the exhaust pipe and against the flat part of the tube where the CAD bolts on. Just keep even pressure and it will slide in and bottom out.. Grease the rubber lip on the seal after yanking the exhaust pipe out with your pinky, and re-assemble.
I have one more leak I need to resolve. On the transfer case, where the front shaft goes in. either the yoke has runout, or the seal is bad. It's leaking ATF all over the yoke/ujoint.
