Doing the inner axle seals next on my truck , pretty much all I have left unless the engine dumps , lol . Anyone tackle these yet ? Any advice ? Is a case spreader manditory ? I know all about everything else except the actual seal install itself . Can iget behind it to tap it in , or is it really needed to have some reddi-rod and big washers handy ? The trucks been apart recently , had new bearings , u-joints , and ball joints , so the tear down should go without much issue .
What about the axle tubes themselves , what's the best method of cleaning them out . Obvious to me was how they broke , by picking up too much dirt reinstalling them after the new u-joints . I was thinking pressure wash but it's messy so I'm open to something you might have tried .
EDIT: did some searching , got some answers , can't delete threads ,
Here's a few pics , it's the start and basically were it sits now
Thanks , nice forum BTW
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Last edited by onegoodmason; 07-18-2009 at 10:14 PM.
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to expose the drivers side seal, you have to remove the pumpkin.
i don't think it actually says this, but to remove the pumpkin you must slide out the drivers side axle, and the passenger side INNER axle, and to slide out the inner, you must remove the outer, and all the cad BS.
somebody recently sort of missed this, and hammered and pried on the pumpkin for a long time with the inner axle still in.
if i was serious about cleaning the axle tubes i'd use a piece of sch40 pvc pipe in whatever size will barely fit in the tube.
good luck.
we need a good DIY over hear. if you've got a camera and the patience for it, go for it.
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01 1500 Reg Cab 4wd 5.2 auto 3.55 285/75/16 nasta step bar tow hook sc3815 180 3923 trans cooler/filter posi-lok powertrax noslip timbren brite-box pioneer head rockford amp/speaker cobra cb firestick hughes plenum water pump timing chain oil pump rear seal front bearings brakes shocks cracked dash towing composting boat.
one guy on here that recently did his u-joints used a framing square to scrape out his tubes. any stiff piece of metal with a pretty sharp edge ought to be good enough to scrape them out. then a shop vac or compressed air will get it all out of the tubes
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I'm sorry, I can't hear you over the sound of how awesome I am.
I noted mine was weeping two weeks back when I had it up in the air. I just had it done last year- twice in fact and it's still hosed up. I didn't do it but another mechanic that I paid to do it over when the first round yielded all fluid pouring out upon turning the wheels.
I would like to learn how to do this so I can get mine fixed and not have to pay someone to f-it up more than it was to begin with.
http://pavementsucks.com/tech/hub.php
read this one. after removing the hubs and axles you will be ready to do the procedure in the axle seal replacement from post #2.
its not a hard job, there is just a bunch of crap you have to take off to get to the driver axle seal.
if it is your passenger seal then you're in luck because you just have to pull the axle to get that one. more than likely you have a bad u joint in whichever side is leaking and thats why it leaks more when you turn the wheel. for a new u joint and axle seal you will be looking at about 30$ to fix one side. which side is it leaking from?
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I'm sorry, I can't hear you over the sound of how awesome I am.
The passenger side is the easy one. You have to take out the inner and outer axle and the CAD module and the seal is just inside the opening for the CAD.
Front inner axle seals , anyone ?
