i wanna know whats the difference between roots and centrifugal and screw styles. which one is better for what?
I don't know about California smog rules but I will answer your question about the different types of blowers.
Twin Screw and Roots sit on the top of the block and usually replace teh stock intake manifold where the centrifugal is like a belt driven turbo.
Roots is an older less efficient design. The older designs have two lobes where the newer ones have four. The lobes spin trapped air between the lobes and pushes it to the discharge side.
Twin Screw operates by pulling air into twin screws, or "twin gears." When the air is trapped by the rotor screws and compresses the air inside the housing constantly building pressure.
The centrifugal supercharger uses an "impeller" like on a turbo. It pulls air into the blower and uses centrifugal force to compress the air and propell it away from the blower.
There are new air to liquid cooling units for newer twin screw type blowers. On older setups the advantage to centrifugal style is the ability to cool the boost before entering the tb. With either alcohol/water injection or air to air intercoolers.
You guys talking novelty of turbos and stuff popped this back into my head. Someday I will be building a 514 for my Mustang. The thought has crossed my mind to after having it in the car for a while building a twin turbo setup. I hope to have around 600HP I believe it was, all motor. (I started gathering stuff for this project about 2 years ago so my memory is a little off on the hp I was looking for. It was 600-700) Would a TT514 be necessary HELL NO but it would be cool as ****.
I hear of problems boosting these truck so I'll stick with just modding the engine and keeping it NA
Theres a difference in whine and squeal. I have watched vids of sc's on mustangs and it sounded like a creaking belt. I would never have that on my car. Now if it as a blower like on the 03-04 Cobra's which I believe are a twin screw they sound beautiful
On a high turning RPM motor, a super charger sounds bad ass. On a low RPM motor, they sound like hell.
If your still looking at boost, here are some other things to consider.
1. Your going to need a tuning solution. IMO, being a 1998, you need to go with an SCT tuner. They are the only company out there that sells an actual programmable tuner for our trucks.
2. Is your drive train going to be able to handle the extra ponies that your going to be putting out?
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Even then your only going to be able to put in about 5 psi of boost. That would be maximum. Typically, your going to see in the real world about 2-3 psi. Granted on average, your looking at about 25HP per PSI, so you'd be in the 40-100 range in terms of HP gain. There are SC kits for the v8s, but no turbo. Generally, you have to make a turbo kit. I had kicked around the idea of doing this in my next truck, but I am a little gun shy, since I can't see spending over 6K to gain 100HP. Would it be cool? Yes. Piratical? No. What ever my next vehicle might be, I expect it to be a reliable daily driver, and not something that I have to worry about not starting for me on those mornings when I am late for something.
To my knowledge, you would be the first on this forum to have a gas burning 2nd gen under boost. I say do it, but I don't see the full point.
You are partially correct in what youve stated. A better correct is that KRC has a universal kit for $2600 including all parts minus exhaust. Secondly, marty is using his truck as a test vehicle and is so far @ 13psi on a completly stock motor, and making 20psi per lb of boost, you do the math and he is over 400hp. He has been running this set up for about a month now, and is doing this to figure out what is safe and what can the stock 360 handle without worries of explosion etc. Once again this is on a junk yard 360, down to the stock throttle body!
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Last edited by bondslayer; 07-24-2009 at 10:39 PM.
I like SC'S
