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  #11  
Old 10-07-2009, 03:05 AM
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I rate at 195-200 temp @ 10-75 mph
but at traffic or at the border when going to mexico It raises to 210-225
but just put it in neutral and consent rev to 2,000 rpm

I notice that depends what Coolant you use. I use green coolant I use to use the orange one but I notice that it messed up my water-pump for some reason

keep in mind I live in Houston where temperatures is 80-95 on somedays and 55-65 on others.

if you want a cooler add a aux fan and 180 thermostat and keep you fluids at check and dont add water just coolant

that only my concept
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  #12  
Old 10-07-2009, 03:10 AM
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Originally Posted by [roger] View Post
if you want a cooler add a aux fan and 180 thermostat and keep you fluids at check and dont add water just coolant

that only my concept
All Ehtyl Glycol does is raise the boiling point of water. When you raise the boiling point, you also raise the freezing temperature. It doesn't dissipate heat better than water can. IMO if you find yourself in a position where you are getting hot enough to boil water, then you have some bigger issues to deal with.
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  #13  
Old 10-07-2009, 03:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Laramie1997 View Post
All Ehtyl Glycol does is raise the boiling point of water. When you raise the boiling point, you also raise the freezing temperature. It doesn't dissipate heat better than water can. IMO if you find yourself in a position where you are getting hot enough to boil water, then you have some bigger issues to deal with.
Agreed, imagine just running water through the block with no coolant. It would boil around the 212 Fahrenheit mark or 100 Celsius. The Ethyl Glycol in the green stuff raises that to keep the water from boiling over and causing potential damage to pumps, radiators, themostats, and possibly boiling out of the reserve tank. Normally vehicles should run between 195 and 210 F. Personally mine is just a needle width below 200, even when running heavy.

And like Laramie said, if you're boiling water, you've got issues with either radiator not dissipating heat correctly or the thermostat is stuck closed always allowing the water to pass through the block and never enter the radiator.

Plus, I believe the another point of diluting the coolant is to prevent corrosion to radiators and any other copper element of the cooling system, but I'm not sure.
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  #14  
Old 10-07-2009, 05:23 AM
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The boiling point raises 3 degrees for each pound of pressure.
A 50-50 mixture raises the boiling point 11 degrees and a 70-30 mix raises it 23 degrees. That is with out pressure..
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  #15  
Old 10-07-2009, 10:19 AM
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A 180F stat works well on mine here in the foothills of NC. It did throw a code last year one morning when the temp dropped below 10F.
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  #16  
Old 10-07-2009, 10:57 AM
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Ok, I called up and changed my order, and got the 180 degree. Thanks guys for setting me straight.
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  #17  
Old 10-07-2009, 10:45 PM
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with a 180 tstat, mine mostly runs right at 180. if i'm towing something in the summertime, it'll climb to 200-210. i suppose its the heat coming out of the trans.
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  #18  
Old 10-08-2009, 12:04 AM
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Mine use to be a 195 constantly. It wouldn't flinch. Lately it's been going from 195 to 215 back and forth. But then again it also won't build pressure so I gotta see what thats about.
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  #19  
Old 10-08-2009, 12:38 AM
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not sure what t stat is in mine, but mine runs around 210-ish pretty consistently. doesn't matter if I'm just driving around empty, or towing a 4,000 lb trailer-it doesn't budge.
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  #20  
Old 10-08-2009, 12:57 AM
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For awhile now, I've had mine stay steady in the 210-220 range, and many times when I'm first starting up and driving my truck I hear a pretty audible water-rushing sound coming from behind the glove box. This is because of the thermostat, huh?
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