Engine Block Plugs / Flushing Engine Coolant
#1
Engine Block Plugs / Flushing Engine Coolant
1995 Dodge Ram 1500 V8 4x4 Automatic SLT Short Bed
I'm trying to flush my engine coolant. I have drained the coolant out of the radiator and now I want to drain the rest out of the block. There are two plugs on either side of the block.
Does anyone have a picture of these plugs?
I found 2 but they are both different bolt sizes and the are difficult to reach.
Also is it possible to drain one plug and remove all the coolant?
Thanks
I'm trying to flush my engine coolant. I have drained the coolant out of the radiator and now I want to drain the rest out of the block. There are two plugs on either side of the block.
Does anyone have a picture of these plugs?
I found 2 but they are both different bolt sizes and the are difficult to reach.
Also is it possible to drain one plug and remove all the coolant?
Thanks
#2
Drain plugs will be center of the block, just above the oil pan rail. Most of the time, they are just pipe plugs, and really shouldn't be that hard to get to. Keep in mind, they have been in there since 95.... and more than likely have become one with the block..... Hitting them with chems several times before you even attempt to remove them is going to be pretty much a requirement.
Just pulling one won't drain the whole block.
Just pulling one won't drain the whole block.
#3
#4
#5
mine are tucked in sort of behind the engine mounts and difficult to get a wrench onto. they were also seized in.
mine were hex pipe plugs, not square, and they tried their best to round off. for some reason i can't remember, i couldn't get a hex socket on it, only a stupid wrench. i finally ended up clamping my best vise grips on the hex to keep it from rounding. when reinstalling, use some teflon tape or teflon liquid to prevent seize.
its worth the effort to remove them. mine puked out scale and rusty dirt.
mine were hex pipe plugs, not square, and they tried their best to round off. for some reason i can't remember, i couldn't get a hex socket on it, only a stupid wrench. i finally ended up clamping my best vise grips on the hex to keep it from rounding. when reinstalling, use some teflon tape or teflon liquid to prevent seize.
its worth the effort to remove them. mine puked out scale and rusty dirt.
#6
Once you remove the block drain plugs, if you notice a fair amount of rusty muck coming out of the holes, you might want to consider removing the freeze plugs on each side of the block to really clean out the rust and gunk that tends to accumulate in these motors around the lower cylinders over time, especially if the cooling system hasn't been well maintained. The plugs are fairly easy to change and are 1-5/8" in diameter. I replaced mine with brass deep cup plugs.
#7
Once you remove the block drain plugs, if you notice a fair amount of rusty muck coming out of the holes, you might want to consider removing the freeze plugs on each side of the block to really clean out the rust and gunk that tends to accumulate in these motors around the lower cylinders over time, especially if the cooling system hasn't been well maintained. The plugs are fairly easy to change and are 1-5/8" in diameter. I replaced mine with brass deep cup plugs.
Why deep cup plugs? Won't that restrict flow somewhat? Just asking so others can also know .
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#8
I use deep cup freeze brass plugs as a precaution to minimize the possibility of a freeze plug popping out prematurely. The deep freeze plugs do not inhibit flow in the least, especially when you consider the amount of muck (rust, dirt and silt) that ends up being trapped in the lower block behind the freeze plugs in motors whose cooling systems are neglected. I have found that that muck definitely inhibits flow and in severe case contributes to engine overheating issues.