OK, my '89 4WD swallowed a 5.2 and NV3500 5 spd this weekend. As expected there was no problem with the motor fit, but the transmission mount is something I've been looking into for a while and I still haven't seen a picture of a 94-96 4WD V8 Dakota 5 speed (NV3500) transmission mount. I know (or think) it uses a flat plate supported by rubber isolators like the one currently in my '89. But, while the '89's had a similar mount, the smaller 5 spd (NP2500), had only two bolts going through the mounting plate, whereas my NV3500 has 4 bolt holes to attach it to the mount. Also the NV3500 overhangs the plate roughly 3/4's of an inch (it's from a '97 Dakota by the way).

If you have, or have seen, the mount used in a 94 - 96 Dakota 4WD V8 5 spd, please look at this picture and tell me what's different from what I have.

 

I looked at the Rockauto listing for the 96, and it shows that there are upper and lower trannie mounts. Looks like two uppers and two lowers, so you could end up using your mounting plate and just drill in new holes to accommodate the upper mounts. I wonder if there are, instead of 4 mounting holes, two sets of 2 mounting holes to accommodate different mounting positions on the trannie--for different applications?

The listings on Rockauto show the applications as running from '87 to '96.

I have a 4wd automatic, and the trannie mounting system is totally different.

 

I know all four holes are used in the '97 application because the NV3500 came to me with a four bolt mount pad attached to it. That pad won't work for me though, it's too tall and doesn't match up with my cross-member holes.

It's certainly possible to drill at least two holes, maybe even the other two near the back edge of the plate. Before I do though, I'd like to see the correct plate as it would help me know where the trans is supposed to land on the plate. It's not supposed to be in the center, but how far over to the passanger side? I could reference the existing two holes, but the original trans had it's mount surface offset from the drive output center-line about 2" vertically. I don't know if this new trans has the same offset between the mounting surface and the output shaft. It appears to be very close based on measurements I did before parting with the old 5 speed; I'd just like to be as precise as possible.

 

Ragged, I don't think I can help you, although I have a 95 5.2L Auto 2wd Dakota in addition to the 90 vert, if any pictures of that will help. But I did want to ask, how'd you get that tranny looking so clean? Power wash only, or did you paint it, and if so, what paint and process?

 

Thanks for the offer Robert, I think I'm going to use a wider plate and drill the four holes where I think they need to go, referencing the old plate. Didn't really think I was breaking so much new ground with this swap, lol.

The transmission is painted. Old aluminum parts are so difficult to get looking "clean" that I decided a long time ago to just paint 'em. It helps keep the oxidation down and if you use a good match for the aluminum, a scratch in the paint will usually just show clean aluminum underneath. If you just want clean aluminum I hear that blasting with baking soda does a decent job.

Before painting I clean "dirty" parts with Simple Green and a brush that will reach in the tight spots. When I say dirty I mean dirt and mud, which was mostly the case with the transmission. After the brushing I rinse (or power wash) to get the residue off. The trans still had oxidation on it after that so I hit it with a green Scotch Brite pad and rinsed again. With greasy parts I usually scrape off the thick stuff then use lacquer thinner on a terry cloth towel to get the rest. I used a Rustoleum "aluminum" paint for the trans, but I have another paint I usually use because it seems to actually be a closer match for true cast aluminum. It's Rustoleum Specialty High Heat Silver and it seems to have a brighter, less gray look, very much like cast parts. I used it on most of the aluminum engine parts.

Here's the transmission before cleaning (that's red Virginia clay, and its a bitch to get off!):



And after:

 

Very nice work Ragged. I know all about clay...I'm in NC.

Did/have you used that high temp paint on intakes? I have an M1 single plane that I'll be using and want to preserve it's look and protect it against the occasional spill. I've read that paint has varying success.

 

I spent a lot of time deciding how best to clean and/or re-finish cast aluminum. I finally settled on the Rustoleum HH Silver paint. I've used it many times on manifolds and other cast aluminum engine parts. My Neon RT manifold was done this way about 3 years ago and still looks good. Likewise with a turbo PT Cruiser I had until earlier this year. I've found it helps stop that white flaky oxidation, plus cleaning is easier; cast finishes seem to "grab" dirt, but the paint smooths out those pores a little and most crud wipes off with soapy water. If it does get a scratch or stain, it's easy to touch up. I've never tried the baking soda blast which I hear works pretty good, but I have tried many other approaches and this is the one I've settled on.

You can see the same finish on my 5.2 manifold, timing cover, and PS bracket, in my "power steering bracket..." post, entry #3, here:

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/1st-gen...ml#post3083625

 

Do you use the rattle can or brush on version? Do you primer it first?

 

Rattle cans. No primer, Rustoleum says primer is not recommended. I would imagine that's due to the high temp conditions.