I am changing my oil soon and thinking about the cold startups in winter with the lifter noise. So I was reading about oil filters with anti drainback valves and discovered that Mobil 1 filters might not be the best choice. So what do you guys recommend for the 4.7l?

 

This is one of those things that is like asking what the best brand of vehicle is. You will get several different answers. Just don't Fram it damnit.

 

Anti-drainback valves, are only important when the filter sits in a position where it drains when the engine is off. In the case of your truck, gravity keeps it filled with oil. I use puralator pure ones.

 

Their is a lot of very old internet articles regarding oil filters that should be ignored always look at the date of them as all filters have improved over the years.

Most any oil filter will be fine but a few are better than most Mobil 1and Wix are among the top rated filters Fram filters have a bad rap for a good reason but they have improved a little and it depends on the model you buy.

You get what you pay for as they say the cheapest filters at Wal-Mart should be avoided if you get my meaning.

 

When in doubt you can always use a Mopar filter.

 

Frams suck, but they won't ruin ruin your engine like everyone says... Walmart's brand is actually a step above the baseline Fram.

 

Purolator Classic is a great filter at a low price, good for a 3,000 to 5,000 mile oil change interval. Purolator Pure One is a great filter as well, and it can be run to 7,500 miles if you want to follow a longer oil change interval and/or use synthetic oil. Both are made here in the USA. Wix is also an excellent filter. You can buy a Wix-branded filter or a Napa Gold or Carquest Blue, those are both re-badged Wix filters. All 3 are exactly the same except for their labels and all 3 are excellent quality American-made filters. Wix also makes the lower line Napa Silver and Carquest Red filters, and the O'Reilly Microgard. Wix makes those filters to Napa, Carquest and O'Reilly's specs and all 3 are good quality American filters, good for a 3,000 mile oil change interval.

The only Fram filter that is said to be good quality is the expensive Fram Ultra. Many people say it's best to avoid the rest of the Fram line. I don't know much about Fram, I don't use them. Even the basic Fram orange can filter costs more than a Purolator Classic. I would also stay away from the Advance Auto Parts Driveworks filters, they are a cheap-made Purolator Classic clone, made in China and personally I would not trust their quality.

I like the Napa Silver/CQ Red and Purolator Classic filters. Those are the only filters I will use. Both have excellent quality construction. I believe the Puro Classic may flow a little better than the Wix-made filters, because my oil pressure gauge reads a bit higher on a hot idle and also at 2,000 RPM driving down the road. The Dakota oil pressure gauge is not exactly a precise measuring tool but that is how it works for me.

FWIW, there are no more cheap Walmart brand (Super Tech) filters. Walmart dropped those when they started carrying Purolator Classics. The ST filters were the same as the STP filter you can buy at Autozone and both are made by Champ Labs. Both are also E-core design with less filter media and a plastic inner supprt tube instead of a metal tube. No thanks, I do not want any plastic parts in my oil filter. I would never ever run an E-core in any vehicle. There may be millions of cars running both E-cores and Fram filters and they may be doing fine but I would rather use a better filter, and better filters can be had for the same or even less money than Fram and E-core Champ filters.

If you really want to learn more than you might care to know about oil filters, check out the oil filter forum at www.bobistheoilguy.com. You can learn a lot there and get others' opinions and reviews on filters, oil, tires, engine repairs/problems, computers, electronics and lots of other subjects. It's also a clean site, flaming and bashing is not allowed.

Jimmy

 

Whatever's on sale if I'm changing the ol' dino oil every 3000 miles. Oil isn't even dirty.

OTOH, if you run your synthetic oil 'til it starts to stink Wix (and it's identical twin NAPA Gold.)

My current engine is coming out in a few weeks. I think it has a purolator and some Rotella synthetic in it right now.

 

The XG16 is just as good if not better than the Mobil1.

Some have use the FRAM paper ones their entire truck life; over 200K miles.

 

Jimmy,

There's a flaw in that logic. Fluid pressure is a function of flow restriction via being contrary to flow volume. If you pump against a deadhead, you'll see a very high pressure and no flow. If you pump into an opening, there will be little pressure and a high flow. As such, a higher oil pressure is usually indicative of a flow restriction. On BBC's, it's common practice to actually put oil restrictors in the galleys to slow down the oil flow and increase pressure.

Crankcase vacuum is another effect. On the camaro, we warm up with the vacuum system unhooked, and get about 80 PSI. Once the water temp gets to 120, we hook the vacuum line up and oil pressure drops to around 60, pulling 7 inches of vacuum at idle. Some cars have an electric vacuum pump connected to the valve cover, our trucks just have that little elbow hose off the air hat. Having that unhooked can make a difference, though I highly doubt there's 7 inches of vacuum in the crankcase- maybe enough to drop 3 or 5 pounds, but not 20 (especially seeing as our trucks idle around 10).