Hello, I was inspecting my brake lines today and I noticed that the juction box was loose. I read that, that should be mounted to the axle. So I'm guessing that the fitting snapped in half. I followed I'm guessing the vacuum hose up above the spare tire and then it is plugged. I know any part of the brake system is important, but what happens if that is not fixed? Also how would I get the piece that is snapped off into the axle out? Can a wheel cylinder be bad if it is not leaking anywhere? I'm not losing any fluid and the cylinder is not moist at all around the rubber seals or anywhere. Just asking. My truck is a 1999 dodge ram 1500 4x4 5.9L. Thanks

 

The junction block is held in place the by vent tube. Sounds like yours broke. You might be able to get it out with some chems, and an easy-out..... (hit it with chems for a couple days before trying to take it out.) If you don't fix it, as your suspension flexes, so will those steel lines that bolt into the junction block, and they will eventually break. Not a good scene. (can be FAR too exciting....)

If the wheel cylinder isn't leaking, or rusted solid.... it isn't bad. Any particular reason you think you may have an issue on your rears?

 

Well they were feeling really spongy. I was stopping but just felt weird. Especially when I pull my boat. I have to start slowing down way way in advance. I bled them, still no good. Then I replaced the master cylinder with a new one. Felt a little better but not a whole lot. I'm in the process now of gravity bleeding them and flushing the whole brake system. Only did the rears today because I ran out of time. Going to do the fronts tomorrow. However I may have found the problem but won't know until tomorrow when I get done and test drive. My aduster screws were all the way turned in on both sides. So I think when I was pressing the brakes they were barely hitting the drum. I manualy adjusted them. I turned them quite a few turns out. I have them to were they are barely touching but yet I didn't force them on. Back to the wheel cylinders, again not leaking anywhere. They are rusted on the outside but I don't think the shoes were barely touching the drum because the star adjusters were all the in.

 

Rears being way out of adjustment will give you a lot of pedal travel before anything starts to happen. Sounds like the rear line that goes over the gas tank is considering blowing itself apart. Standard problem on these trucks. Might wanna have a look at that.

 

Now that you mention it, there was a lot of pedal travel I noticed before I would start to slow down. As for that line over the tank, I replaced that about 3 years ago. It blew out on me when I slowed down getting off of the highway. Was pretty scary and I had my 2 boys with me. I will take a look at it again though just be sure.

 

If you have already replaced it, it should be ok. (but, it sure won't hurt to check...) See how it drives with the rears properly adjusted..... if you still don't like it, there ARE some tricks you can use to improve your braking experience.

 

I appreciate it. I will give an update tomorrow after I finish up and test drive.

 

Got everything finished up and went for a drive. It has a lot firmer pedal and is stopping a whole lot better. I think the rear shoes were barely hitting the drums. But (Hey you) you mentioned some tricks, just curious as to what some of those you were talking about.

 

LD 3/4 ton calipers for the front. They bolt right on. Larger pistons, so, more braking for the same pedal effort. Only works if you do NOT have the dual piston calipers from the factory. (LD 3/4 fellers are single piston, just larger pistons.)

1 ton rear wheel cylinders. Larger diameter bores, same affect as the calipers up front.

Makes for much better braking, for the same pedal effort.

If you want to get really weird, hydra-boost (from a diesel truck) makes for some awesome pedal feel as well. Also makes getting at those back to spark plugs easier.

 

Thanks for the tips. Might look into those sometime soon.