Okay, on my youtube, email and PM accounts I keep getting questions about what is needed to run boost on a 2005 4.7L Dakota and what part numbers. So here we go. Besides the main assemblies of the blower or turbo.......
01. Bigger Injectors, I use Bosch 0280156127 #39 designed for the SVT Cobra.
02. Depending on boost level, you need a MAP sensor that can read that level. I used one designed for an SRT-4 part #05033224AB.
03. Tuners. I use SCT DCX Xcalibrator 2 Flash Dodge Chrysler Part# 9550
04. Motor/Tranny mounts. I would love to find some polyurethane motor mounts like the ones by energy suspension. Since none are made, I had a custom tranny mount build and I use engine torque dampers.
05. I also recommend replacing your stock belt tensioner with a better aftermarket. I chose the Dayco 89254 that uses a compression spring vs coil spring.
06. I also recommend a 180 thermostat. I'm currently using he one made by Jet part# 10177
07. Spark plugs. For every 70 to 100 hp you you increase at the crank, you should go a range colder. I run NGK BKR7E stock# 4644 which are one range colder than stock.
I can add a little more info, if your running a turbo, be ready to get an adjustable rising rate fuel pressure regulator. Aeromotive makes a universal kit that will adjust past 30PSI of boost. that is way more than you will ever need in a 4.7.
If your running a remote turbo setup, intercooling isnt as big a deal, but boost makes a lot of heat.
Blown might also want to add that high flow cats, headers and exhaust are also highly suggested.
I don't know which factory has the best OEM cat. I know if you look at the Charger forums there are dozens of reports of cat failure at 40K miles. I've been at the dyno and seen Dodge OEM cats glow bright red as they could not flow the boost out of the block fast enough.
I think I can add just a little bit of suggested information based on my experience
Consider the power adder: Supercharger vs. Turbocharger
-Each make intake system pressurized, therefore the term "boost leaks" should be the first thing you check every/other week. If you don't, it will result in poor performance (if you are turbocharged, it can result in turbocharger failure).
-Use quality hose connections for f#$%-sake. I am sick of hearing about people "blowing" hose connections because they make "soooo" much boost. Get real, stop your b*tching and get quality stuff that is worth a f#%^.
-Use quality vacuum line. Silicone vacuum line will not collapse/expand like traditional automotive vacuum line. Or, get braided line. I use -4 ss braided line on almost all of my vacuum/boost sources.
Here are two awesome places that carry quality hose connections:
The only other thing I can say is, take it easy on your DD that is now boosted. Don't flog the truck everywhere you go, all the time. These engines were not meant for that kind of cylinder pressure they way they sit. In order to acheive longevity, consider the following:
-Use ARP hardware for headstuds, mainstuds, exhaust manifold studs (if applicable).
-Get quality headgaskets: I use Cometic and have for the past 6 years.
-Quality connecting rods, pistons, and wrist pins are essential. I highly recommend sticking with tool steel wrist pins, forged aluminum pistons, and forged steel connecting rods.
Ok, now lets talk boost control: Whether you are turbocharged or supercharged, a quality compressor bypass valve is essential in longevity of either.
Tial makes amazing products. Here are some pictures of their compressor bypass valves (blow off valve, pop off valve) and wastegates.
50mm blowoff valve
Regulating boost control can be very fancy. There are all types of electronic advancements in controlling boost levels. Personally, I like simplicity. Hallman has always been the leader in manual boost controllers. After ditching two other boost controllers, the Hallman was the winner for me, and is for the majority of turbocharged applications. Here is a picture of it.
06' Dakota ST 4x4 3.7L: Leveled, Ranchos, 285/75/16 Duratracs, 16x8.5 Level 8 ZX, CAI, Exhaust, E-fan, Sway Bars Delete, Drag Racing Driver Mod = owns you
It's about understanding how the different PCMs work in different vehicles. Pre 05 Dodge Dakota PCMs were JTEC. In 2005 Dodge switched to the NGC PCM. Once you understand pulse width, signal and resistance it becomes easy to figure out what is interchangeable.
it would be great if you put the prices next to the parts
Look in 3rd gen general, I found a full setup, minus some fabbing to get the eaton pully lined up, (it was done before by a guy with a 4.7 in his jeep, and some info is available for the shop that modified his pulley) which includes an ho motor, all the adaptors and various hardware for 3500 asking. I bet you could get him to 3000 if he's desperate enough, or more since he's been trying to sell for a month.