How to bleed the unbleedable clutch assy.
#1
How to bleed the unbleedable clutch assy.
I finally figured this out and thought I'd share since there is scant info on the interwebz about it. In case anyone doesn't know, the clutch master cylinder/slave cylinder assembly on 05+ Rams and Dakotas (maybe older too) is one piece and is assembled, filled and bled at the factory. According to Dodge, this unit cannot be serviced and must be replaced whole. Also, there is no factory procedure for bleeding this system. If you open the system for some reason, you're screwed. Until now.
I won't go into WHY my system got opened because it's dumb and I don't want to tell anyone. I've been down this road before and just gave up and bought a new unit. This time though I wasn't going to let it beat me so I sat down, lit a cigarette, and stared at my truck thinking. Then it hit me. The clutch master cylinder is installed pointing down so that the port/line end is lower than the piston end. Aha! If air gets in the system, where's it going to go? Right! Right up to the top of the master cylinder. After removing the fender liner, remove the slave cylinder and master cylinder. Work the slave out through the wheel well so it's above the tire, it's easier this way. Now position the master cylinder so that the line end is HIGHER than the piston end (pedal rod pointing down). Make sure the reservoir is full and slowly hand pump the slave. With the slave out on the tire you can watch the reservoir for bubbles. When no more bubbles, put everything back together. Viola! No mas problema. Hopefully this help someone avoid all the ARG! moments I've had. Ciao!
I won't go into WHY my system got opened because it's dumb and I don't want to tell anyone. I've been down this road before and just gave up and bought a new unit. This time though I wasn't going to let it beat me so I sat down, lit a cigarette, and stared at my truck thinking. Then it hit me. The clutch master cylinder is installed pointing down so that the port/line end is lower than the piston end. Aha! If air gets in the system, where's it going to go? Right! Right up to the top of the master cylinder. After removing the fender liner, remove the slave cylinder and master cylinder. Work the slave out through the wheel well so it's above the tire, it's easier this way. Now position the master cylinder so that the line end is HIGHER than the piston end (pedal rod pointing down). Make sure the reservoir is full and slowly hand pump the slave. With the slave out on the tire you can watch the reservoir for bubbles. When no more bubbles, put everything back together. Viola! No mas problema. Hopefully this help someone avoid all the ARG! moments I've had. Ciao!
#3
ok now i went down this same road pissed off and did the exact same thing you did. then i had to change the clutch and the slave was leaking. (here is where you get mad) i went to advanced and asked if they had one with a bleeder on it. and lone behold yes they do sorry to anyone but im now spending the 54 bucks for a steel cylinder case with a bleeder.
#4
holy **** i bought a old dodge 1997 dakota sport 318 5 speed n it was mint when i looked at it brought it home next day clutch soft been 2 months of me trying to figure it out this helped alot makes sense but im going to do it tm tried today but i cant seem to bend the inner fender enough to get the the master cylinder
I finally figured this out and thought I'd share since there is scant info on the interwebz about it. In case anyone doesn't know, the clutch master cylinder/slave cylinder assembly on 05+ Rams and Dakotas (maybe older too) is one piece and is assembled, filled and bled at the factory. According to Dodge, this unit cannot be serviced and must be replaced whole. Also, there is no factory procedure for bleeding this system. If you open the system for some reason, you're screwed. Until now.
I won't go into WHY my system got opened because it's dumb and I don't want to tell anyone. I've been down this road before and just gave up and bought a new unit. This time though I wasn't going to let it beat me so I sat down, lit a cigarette, and stared at my truck thinking. Then it hit me. The clutch master cylinder is installed pointing down so that the port/line end is lower than the piston end. Aha! If air gets in the system, where's it going to go? Right! Right up to the top of the master cylinder. After removing the fender liner, remove the slave cylinder and master cylinder. Work the slave out through the wheel well so it's above the tire, it's easier this way. Now position the master cylinder so that the line end is HIGHER than the piston end (pedal rod pointing down). Make sure the reservoir is full and slowly hand pump the slave. With the slave out on the tire you can watch the reservoir for bubbles. When no more bubbles, put everything back together. Viola! No mas problema. Hopefully this help someone avoid all the ARG! moments I've had. Ciao!
I won't go into WHY my system got opened because it's dumb and I don't want to tell anyone. I've been down this road before and just gave up and bought a new unit. This time though I wasn't going to let it beat me so I sat down, lit a cigarette, and stared at my truck thinking. Then it hit me. The clutch master cylinder is installed pointing down so that the port/line end is lower than the piston end. Aha! If air gets in the system, where's it going to go? Right! Right up to the top of the master cylinder. After removing the fender liner, remove the slave cylinder and master cylinder. Work the slave out through the wheel well so it's above the tire, it's easier this way. Now position the master cylinder so that the line end is HIGHER than the piston end (pedal rod pointing down). Make sure the reservoir is full and slowly hand pump the slave. With the slave out on the tire you can watch the reservoir for bubbles. When no more bubbles, put everything back together. Viola! No mas problema. Hopefully this help someone avoid all the ARG! moments I've had. Ciao!