Important tip when replacing your clutch.
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12-02-2009, 12:09 PM
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Bakersfield, Ca
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Important tip when replacing your clutch.
Hello everyone,
I don't post here often but recently solved a problem that will undoubtedly come up in the future for some of you and what I learned will save you a lot of heartache.
I did a complete clutch job on my '05 V8/ 6-speed a few months ago when the TO bearing went (80,000). All went well, resurfaced the flywheel, new pilot bushing etc. Afterward though the truck just never shifted right. Immediately after the install it shifted smoothly but engaged WAY too soon, that is too soon from the floor. I lived with this out of laziness for a while but eventually shifting got more and more "crunchy" like the clutch wasn't disengaging properly. I focused on the hydraulics even though I hadn't touched them during the job. That was mistake #1! If something's different after a job, don't look at things you didn't touch! Anyway, over the next couple months I replaced the hydraulics, made custom length push rods, etc, all to no avail.
I kept going over in my head what I had done and what I could have possibly done wrong. I kept returning to the TO bearing lever (it's not really a fork) as the only "iffy" part of the job. The lever is symmetrical you see, that is it can be installed either way and look/act exactly the same. Upon disassembly I made the mistake of not noting which way the lever went in so when it was time to reinstall I was kinda lost. In short, I had installed the lever the wrong way and this caused my problem.
When I'd finally had enough and pulled the trans again I discovered the issue. Although the lever is indeed symmetrical LOOKING, there IS a difference which you can see in the attached photo and that is the orientation of the slots for the TO bearing retaining springs. With the lever on the bench and the bearing in place on it, the bearing will rock easily in one direction but NOT the other! As the bearing moves on the shaft it must be able to easily rock to one side in order to move smoothly. If the lever is installed backward, the bearing won't rock properly and will bind on the shaft reducing it's movement resulting in incomplete clutch disengagement. AHA! I installed a new bearing and lubed everything up and all is well. There is one interesting side note though. The new bearing had differently designed retainer springs which allowed for better rocking movement in BOTH directions. Has someone discovered this issue and redesigned the bearings retaining springs? I installed it correctly anyway.
In summary, when doing a clutch job it is CRITICAL to install the release bearing lever the right way with the slots on the slave cylinder side. Note before disassembly which way it goes and don't be a dumb-*** like me. Here's a few other tips to make the job easier:
Don't even THINK of not removing the fender liners. You'll never get to the O2 sensor plugs otherwise. Lowe's has plastic retainers to replace the ones that break so you don't have to go to Dodge.
Those upper O2 sensor plugs are a BI*** to get to! Mine were not only stuffed up between the engine block and firewall but secured with zip ties too. Do yourself a favor and tie them up somewhere else for future removal.
The exhaust crossover CAN be removed without removing the rest of the exhaust system. It's easiest to remove the starter first then just unbolt the crossover and move it forward. It will clear enough to come out.
Do NOT over tighten the male torx head screws holding the shifter in, they break very easily. Ask me how I know.
The two engine-to-trans bolts at the top are easiest to remove with about 3 feet of extension and a wobble at the end. Just drop the rear of the trans down a bit and you can get your long extension up there. Don't try a universal, it's too floppy.
Don't forget to use thread locker on the driveline bolts and MARK the alignment of the driveline to the trans yoke.
Peace!
Allen in Bakersfield
I don't post here often but recently solved a problem that will undoubtedly come up in the future for some of you and what I learned will save you a lot of heartache.
I did a complete clutch job on my '05 V8/ 6-speed a few months ago when the TO bearing went (80,000). All went well, resurfaced the flywheel, new pilot bushing etc. Afterward though the truck just never shifted right. Immediately after the install it shifted smoothly but engaged WAY too soon, that is too soon from the floor. I lived with this out of laziness for a while but eventually shifting got more and more "crunchy" like the clutch wasn't disengaging properly. I focused on the hydraulics even though I hadn't touched them during the job. That was mistake #1! If something's different after a job, don't look at things you didn't touch! Anyway, over the next couple months I replaced the hydraulics, made custom length push rods, etc, all to no avail.
I kept going over in my head what I had done and what I could have possibly done wrong. I kept returning to the TO bearing lever (it's not really a fork) as the only "iffy" part of the job. The lever is symmetrical you see, that is it can be installed either way and look/act exactly the same. Upon disassembly I made the mistake of not noting which way the lever went in so when it was time to reinstall I was kinda lost. In short, I had installed the lever the wrong way and this caused my problem.
When I'd finally had enough and pulled the trans again I discovered the issue. Although the lever is indeed symmetrical LOOKING, there IS a difference which you can see in the attached photo and that is the orientation of the slots for the TO bearing retaining springs. With the lever on the bench and the bearing in place on it, the bearing will rock easily in one direction but NOT the other! As the bearing moves on the shaft it must be able to easily rock to one side in order to move smoothly. If the lever is installed backward, the bearing won't rock properly and will bind on the shaft reducing it's movement resulting in incomplete clutch disengagement. AHA! I installed a new bearing and lubed everything up and all is well. There is one interesting side note though. The new bearing had differently designed retainer springs which allowed for better rocking movement in BOTH directions. Has someone discovered this issue and redesigned the bearings retaining springs? I installed it correctly anyway.
In summary, when doing a clutch job it is CRITICAL to install the release bearing lever the right way with the slots on the slave cylinder side. Note before disassembly which way it goes and don't be a dumb-*** like me. Here's a few other tips to make the job easier:
Don't even THINK of not removing the fender liners. You'll never get to the O2 sensor plugs otherwise. Lowe's has plastic retainers to replace the ones that break so you don't have to go to Dodge.
Those upper O2 sensor plugs are a BI*** to get to! Mine were not only stuffed up between the engine block and firewall but secured with zip ties too. Do yourself a favor and tie them up somewhere else for future removal.
The exhaust crossover CAN be removed without removing the rest of the exhaust system. It's easiest to remove the starter first then just unbolt the crossover and move it forward. It will clear enough to come out.
Do NOT over tighten the male torx head screws holding the shifter in, they break very easily. Ask me how I know.
The two engine-to-trans bolts at the top are easiest to remove with about 3 feet of extension and a wobble at the end. Just drop the rear of the trans down a bit and you can get your long extension up there. Don't try a universal, it's too floppy.
Don't forget to use thread locker on the driveline bolts and MARK the alignment of the driveline to the trans yoke.
Peace!
Allen in Bakersfield