well first off the truck would stall when coming to a red light after it idled down from me pushing the gas. That hasnt happened recently, but I put in the autolite 3923 gaped at .40 and after that the idle would surge up to 1000 then back to 500 til i shut the truck off. It mainly would do it when warm.
Also in mid throttle while accelerating it will jump up in idle like it down shifted and a little temp looking symbol light that's red will kick on. but my gauges are fine, i know its not overheating
Any Ideas would be great, thanks guys
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Just remove the throttle body. The results will prove much better, IMHO. Its only 3 bolts, and you will see why after you pull it off. There are small chambers on the back that you simply wont be able to get clean with just spraying. Plus, you wont risk any harm to your engine.
First, disconnect the battery. Remove the intake hat/tube and the connections to the IAT (intake air temp), IACV (idle air control valve), TPS (throttle position sensor), the vacuum line, and throttle control cables. Use an 8mm socket and remove the TB. Use a torx bit to remove the TPS and IACV from the TB. The IACV wont pull out easily. Youll need to try and turn it to get it out, but dont break it. After that, go to work with the throttle body cleaner, q tips and a rag. Spray the TB, but use caution when spraying the cleaner. It doesnt do good on plastic parts, so stay away from the throttle control piece and try to keep it away from the shaft seals that control the butterfly. After the TB is clean, you can also clean the IACV. The TPS shouldnt need cleaning. Use an electronic cleaner to clean the IACV. Throttle body cleaner is way to strong and will ruin it. I would avoid saturating the IACV or trying to rub it down. It is very sensative and you may risk ruining it. I cleaned mine and still had an idle problem, cleaned it again a little to much and ruined it so I needed a new one. So just use caution. A cleaner that isnt too strong and dries fast works best.
I would pick up new gaskets from Napa. Get the mounting seal and the 2 o-rings for the IACV so you will have no problems. Use a little vaseline to create an air tight seal on all the gaskets, and install the sensors on the TB, and the TB back on the engine. Torque the 3 bolts to 9 ft lbs per Autozones repair guide, and connect all the sensors and cables. Reconnect the intake tube and the battery, and you should be good to go. It will take about 60 miles for the PCM to initially relearn the engine parameters, so if it acts a little funny at first give it some time.
2013 RAM 1500 HEMI Quad Cab 4x4 - Bright Silver
20" Chrome Clads, 3.55 Limited Slip, 32 Gallon tank, MBRP Pro Series split rear exhaust, OEM Tow hooks, Curt Class IV w/ Andersen Rapid Hitch, Tint, Ventshades, Mopar drop-in liner, Weathertech Digital Fit mats, DBALL2 RSR Module w/ SmartStart