Hi guys. I have an 05 4.7 2wd club cab. So while I am driving or the truck is sitting there running The dash will chime and then my battery light pops on followed by all of my other guage lights then all the dials drop to zero, rpms, mpg etc. The truck runs fine and everything but the fog lights will go off and if they are not on the headlights will come on. It last a few seconds then everything comes back to normal. Then ten seconds later it will do it again. I checked voltages at the alternator and at the battery running and not running and everything seems fine.

The airbag light stays on and there is a check engine light that autozone said was a network communication error. not sure exactly which code but i can check it at work tomorrow. I recently pulled the seats and dynamatted most of the interior so the only things I unplugged to do that were the seat plugs. 1 plug for the heated seats in the driver seat and there is a small module under the driver seat that i suspect is for the passenger airbag but I am not sure.

All fuses seems to be ok. I have read that it could be the actual fuse box itself.

I have a 0 guage big 3 upgrade with 0 gauge running to the back and 0 guage ground on the passenger seat rear bolt. I disconnected the system and the grounds and it still had the problem.

Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

 

So I am reading that since i removed the passenger seat that I may have to have the dealer reset the occupant classification system that is the unit that is under the passenger seat. Does this sound familiar to any of you guys? Thanks.

 

So this issue started after you dynamatted, correct?
If so, when you unplugged those connections, did you disconnect the battery beforehand?
You can try to disconnect the battery and turn the key a couple of cycles to de-energize everything, then reconnect the battery.
I have an 05 and just recently had to replace the factory ends on my battery cables, the ground was loose and the bolt broke on my positive cable end.
Try the battery reset and check your battery connections and let us know how that goes.

 

I have the negative on the battery disconnected right now. I did have the battery disconnected when I did the work since I removed my amps and subs. I have upgraded power and ground cables on my battery. I added to the original cables and did not remove the old ones fyi. I will connect the battery right now and let you know how it went. Thanks.

 

Just reattached the battery and the problem is the same. i may have to bite the bullet and take it to the dealership to get diagnosed tomorrow. I hate doing that. Thanks guys.

 

I just skimmed the service manual and it looks like you need a scan tool to do any test on this system.
Good luck at the dealer and keep us posted.

 

Yeah I have the service manual well and concur with that. I will let you guys know what the solution was in case this happens to you. Like I said the truck runs and drives and shifts fine just scary when everything goes off. Thanks.

 

I've seen a thread or 2 here about the airbag light after removing the seat. Don't remember anything about the cluster shutting down. Maybe seperate issues?

 

I read on some inferior forum that the cluster may be the fusebox itself needing replaced. Just seems like to much of a coincidence to me that it happened at the same time. I did the dynamat last weekend and the airbag light was on and off since then. The cluster issue started yesterday out of the blue.

On a side note I used the Noico brand sound deadener from Amazon. The 80 mil stuff. Works great with no smell at all. 54 square feet did 100 percent coverage on the back wall. about 60 percent on all the doors, and about 60 percent coverage on the floor and roof. Every panel on my truck cab is a dull thud now.

 

when you did the big 3 with 0 gauge, you said that you kept the original wiring in place and added the 0 gauge on top of that?

could something me loose on any of those? was there any corrosion on anything and did you clean it off before?

what kind of metal are you using for the ends? is it the same as the original ones or a different metal?

i could be grasping at straws here, but it sounds like something in relation to the power or ground loops that you swapped. it could have had a short which then caused something to die over time. Or, since the 0 gauge wire allows more current to flow, it could have caused some electrolysis between different metals causing corrosion to the connectors, if the metals are different.