New to me 2006, what should I watch for?
#1
New to me 2006, what should I watch for?
2WD club cab power nothing, manual everything, including the trans.
3.7LV6 with the 6 speed Manual trans.
I'll be using this to tow my ATV trailer.
Only major rust is the rear step bumper.
It doesn't have a hitch other than that bumper.
The spare tire of course will need a work over, as it hasn't been off in a while.
Inferno Red.
Very basic, the way I like it.
No pics yet, I don't have it home yet.
3.7LV6 with the 6 speed Manual trans.
I'll be using this to tow my ATV trailer.
Only major rust is the rear step bumper.
It doesn't have a hitch other than that bumper.
The spare tire of course will need a work over, as it hasn't been off in a while.
Inferno Red.
Very basic, the way I like it.
No pics yet, I don't have it home yet.
#2
#3
83467 miles
It has had a full service. I'm in Ontario, it has to be "safetied" Before I can put it on the road. Brakes, shocks, body inspection, suspension, anything safety related. I probably will put a Reese hitch on it eventually.
The truck looks like it has done nothing but haul a trailer. It has a bed liner, and a tonneau cover. Looks like it's never had anything in the back at all.
It has had a full service. I'm in Ontario, it has to be "safetied" Before I can put it on the road. Brakes, shocks, body inspection, suspension, anything safety related. I probably will put a Reese hitch on it eventually.
The truck looks like it has done nothing but haul a trailer. It has a bed liner, and a tonneau cover. Looks like it's never had anything in the back at all.
Last edited by JYC; 01-08-2017 at 01:53 PM.
#7
I know you said it's going to have the suspension checked out. Things that seem to come up here more often than not usually all have to do with the front suspension and steering components: Sway bar end links, lower ball joints, upper ball joints (integrated with the upper control arms and can only be replaced by way of new arms), steering tie rods (outers seem to cause more trouble than the inners).
Been some reports of the transmission cooler lines on the older trucks starting to leak.
I personally have had to replace the serpentine belt tensioner on my '05 V6 because the bushing between the swing-arm portion of it and the fixed portion seemed to fail, causing the two portions of the tensioner to make contact with each other and make a "grinding" sound whenever there was extra tension on the serpentine belt (such as when the A/C compressor was engaged, or when I suddenly tapped the gas pedal from idle). But I can't recall anyone else ever having the same issue.
Watch for any rust on or near the attaching points of the front crossmember in front of the radiator.
Aside from spark plugs as mentioned above, a good cleanout of the throttle body (after removing the Idle Air Controller and Throttle Position Sensor) every couple years seems to help with throttle response...I personally remove mine from the truck and clean it with CRC Throttle Body Cleaner.
That said, the cylinders on mine did seem to pick up enough carbon build-up over the years to induce light to moderate "spark knock" (slight but random "ticking" sound when accelerating, caused by hot carbon deposits in the cylinders detonating the air/fuel prematurely) when using 87 octane. A "Sea Foam" treatment to clean out the carbon helped a little bit, but I wasn't comfortable with the way it stressed the engine during the treatment, and I preferred not to do it again. So instead, I've just been running 93 octane ever since, which has a higher detonation threshold to prevent "spark knock". Slightly pricier in the long run, but it cleared up the problem which could have had long-term damaging effects inside the engine.
Other than that, can't think of anything else right now.
Been some reports of the transmission cooler lines on the older trucks starting to leak.
I personally have had to replace the serpentine belt tensioner on my '05 V6 because the bushing between the swing-arm portion of it and the fixed portion seemed to fail, causing the two portions of the tensioner to make contact with each other and make a "grinding" sound whenever there was extra tension on the serpentine belt (such as when the A/C compressor was engaged, or when I suddenly tapped the gas pedal from idle). But I can't recall anyone else ever having the same issue.
Watch for any rust on or near the attaching points of the front crossmember in front of the radiator.
Aside from spark plugs as mentioned above, a good cleanout of the throttle body (after removing the Idle Air Controller and Throttle Position Sensor) every couple years seems to help with throttle response...I personally remove mine from the truck and clean it with CRC Throttle Body Cleaner.
That said, the cylinders on mine did seem to pick up enough carbon build-up over the years to induce light to moderate "spark knock" (slight but random "ticking" sound when accelerating, caused by hot carbon deposits in the cylinders detonating the air/fuel prematurely) when using 87 octane. A "Sea Foam" treatment to clean out the carbon helped a little bit, but I wasn't comfortable with the way it stressed the engine during the treatment, and I preferred not to do it again. So instead, I've just been running 93 octane ever since, which has a higher detonation threshold to prevent "spark knock". Slightly pricier in the long run, but it cleared up the problem which could have had long-term damaging effects inside the engine.
Other than that, can't think of anything else right now.
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#8
The "ball mount" that goes through the bumper is actually connected to the same structure as the proper "tow package" hitch bolts to. So if the angles are OK, tow on!
Installation of the hitch is a little bit easy - see attached.