Lower radiator support rust issue
#1
Lower radiator support rust issue
Passenger side
Driver side
I was changing the oil when I bump the lower air dam and noticed the radiator support rusted out took everything apart and this is what I found. I was hoping for a few recommendations slash suggestions I've been told everything is non-weight bearing so the paint it and throw it back together again and consider it done. It's my daily driver and although in good condition isn't worth much being in the rust belt.
Driver side
I was changing the oil when I bump the lower air dam and noticed the radiator support rusted out took everything apart and this is what I found. I was hoping for a few recommendations slash suggestions I've been told everything is non-weight bearing so the paint it and throw it back together again and consider it done. It's my daily driver and although in good condition isn't worth much being in the rust belt.
#5
Just did mine this past August. Mine was way worse. There was nothing left to bolt the lower support to. Had to replace those fender frames also (I think they are called radiator closures, about $200 each). Had to remove hood, inner and outer fenders, wiper cowl and disconnect everything attached to those frames, most of which can be tied back (to motor) out of the way. Coolant/washer reservoir was a bit tricky. I just sawzalled the body mount bolts and replaced them. The nightmare was up at the firewall where frames were attached by about 2 dozen spot welds on each side. Use a spot weld cutter (Harbor Freight approx $6, get the 2 pack). Looks like a mini hole saw for door ****/lock installation. Dimple the center of weld w/punch and have at it. Spread the outer frame enclosure outwards (you'll see what I mean) and slide frame out forward. Try not to bend inner part of enclosure or your hood hinges will be out of whack (trust me, lol). Slide the frames in and reassemble front supports and mounts first. Now the nightmare. Not so much if you have a welder to re-tack those spot welds. I had to do a lot of drilling so I could bolt all that crap back together. Took my buddy and me a day and a half (outside), but I figure I'm good for another 11 years. Radiator was seeping, probably from banging around from no support. So I used the opportunity to replace radiator, water pump, belt tensioner, and front oil seal while nothing was in the way. Hope this helps any decisions that anyone might need to make.
#6
Finally finished
I wanted to respond and let everyone know what I did at least have some idea of what it took. I'm heading to post this reply from my phone so bear with me. Overall it was a pretty simple job for the guy that welded it however the issue is most of the metal was 12 gauge. Local welding shop only had 1/8 inch is the thinnest material I could easily get. If somebody was looking to do this job or head I've been able to locate a prior post that indicated that most of the metal was 12 gauge I might have been able to stop and sheet metal shop or something to get what I needed. So in short the picture show where I welding in the 8 inch material and use the stock radiator support again just to try and make it look as possible.
Driver side
Passenger side
Full frontal
2 coats rattle can rustoleum primer 3 black then 2 coats undercoating
Passenger side
Full frontal
2 coats rattle can rustoleum primer 3 black then 2 coats undercoating
#7
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#9
Spot welds on radiator closures.
#10
Hey Deer Hunter, You notated that you bolted your closures in apposed to welding. I'm just finishing up and was wondering if there were any issues ir concerns to bolting? I was thinking about doing the same with bolts, similar to those used on the fenders. Although, I do have a welder, I just think that bolting will make me more confident? Your thoughts? Thanks, Mike