My check engine light came on late Friday night, my husband brought it in 1st thing Saturday morning, they wouldn't check it, per the dealer they don't do that type of service on weekends. He also said if it isn't flashing its ok to operate. That sounds like a crock of bull to me, personally! So fast forward to driving it yesterday evening, at a red light it feels like a rougher idle. The remote start will start for about 10 seconds then shut off & won't work again. And finally what else I have noticed, the "Eco" light on the display with the speedometer doesn't come on.. So this has to be something electric? Or with the engine? ??? Any ideas so I will know if the dealer is coming up with anything crazy tomorrow morning? Thanks.

 

The light you you truly need to worry about and stop driving for is the oil light. You should be able to check your menu on the dash and verify that oil and coolant temps are fine, as well as oil pressure. The general "check engine" light monitors an array of sensors that keep things running efficiently and clean. It can be something as simple as a missing or loose gas cap. In one sense it's a quick way for emission inspectors to fail a vehicle that needs emission related work. I do really like that the dash menu gives you the ability to check all that stuff.

What the dealer said makes sense to me. Similarly, when we bought our Honda minivan the dealer told us if you have a yellow warning light have it checked when convenient, red lights are brake and oil warnings on a Honda.

I drove my last vehicle (02 Maxima) with the check engine light on intermittently for three years. No problem no damage, I knew the code was a loose gas cap (or in my gas, vacuum leak around the cap edge due to a rusty filler neck).

Steve

 

Quote from owners manual:

*Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL)
The Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) is part of an onboard diagnostic system called OBD II that monitors engine and automatic transmission con-
trol systems. The light will illuminate when the key is in the ON/RUN position before engine start. If the bulb*does not come on when turning the key from OFF to ON/RUN, have the condition checked promptly.
Certain conditions, such as a loose or missing gas cap, poor fuel quality, etc., may illuminate the light after engine start. The vehicle should be serviced if the light stays on through several of your typical driving cycles. In most situations, the vehicle will drive normally and will not require towing.

So as long as check engine light(MIL) isn't blinking and u don't have any other lights on as mentioned above, you should be ok to drive until Monday. If it were blinking---that's when u should be concerned.

As for the remote start, if the check engine light is on or if the fuel level is low, it will shut off after 10 seconds:

NOTE:
• If an engine fault is present or fuel level is low, the vehicle will start and then shut down in 10 seconds.


The ECO "mode" is only displayed when the MDS is active, which is based on your driving conditions and engine load:

The FUEL SAVER MODE message will display above the average fuel economy in the EVIC display. This message will appear whenever the Multi-Displacement System
(MDS) (if equipped) allows the engine to operate on four cylinders, or if you are driving in a fuel efficient manner.
Fuel Saver Mode — On
This feature allows you to monitor when you are driving in a fuel efficient manner, and it can be used to modify driving habits in order to increase fuel economy.

So, I'd say don't worry an wait until the techs can pull your engine code on Monday before jumping to any conclusions. Chances are its something simple like emissions. Happened to mine a month ago. Let us know how it goes.

 

Have the dealer check it out before you get yourself to worked up, it could be any number of things. Good luck and keep us posted!

 

Thanks for the reassurance. I am feelings little antsy after a friend with a 2011 Crew had one of her cylinders break apart and had to be in the shop for 19 days a few months ago right around 17000 miles (same mileage as mine) :-/

 

You can pull the code yourself if you're feeling up to it.

If you have a push button start, pop the button out by using a key or small screwdriver on the bottom. It will come out pretty easy. After that follow these steps:

1. Place your key in the ignition
2. Turn the key to the "ON" position, but do NOT start the vehicle.
3. Turn the key back to "ACC" then back to "ON" then back to "ACC" then back to "ON"
4. Pull the code(s) that show up. They will display where the mileage shows.
5. After the last code shows the lines will say -d0ne-

If you get it to work, post up the codes. Either way its going to be a trip to the dealer, but we could possibly help you in a decision to drive the car or not.

***NOTE***

You need to do the "key dance" pretty quick. You have to go from ON-ACC-ON-ACC-ON within about 5 seconds or so.

Let me know if you have any questions and good luck!

 

Thanks, I'm reading this while i wait for the dealer to open, :-)

 

And the word from the dealer is the cylinder #4 is misfiring? They have to order the part, but will take a few weeks. Won't that further damage it?

 

So it needs a new coil pack and it will take a few weeks to get? Wow, that's interesting.

I'm not sure about damage, but it sure won't perform too well. How many miles on the car? They're not offering a loaner? I'm pretty sure the 3/36 covers this cost.

Heck, I can ask my dealer for a loaner car and they give me one if is available.

 

16600 miles on it, and my friend just confirmed that is what the problem with her 2011 was.. They didn't mention the loaner, but I will ask. This dealer is a joke, they try to charge me for every oil change, I always have to remind them that I have that 36 month convenience plan. Do you know if it says anything in it about specifically getting a loaner in this situation? I am waiting on a new copy of it to be sent to me.