You most likely fixed it. Wife had 2011 Caravan Crew and it literally went bonkers on me one evening while I was getting propane at a bottom dollar. The windshield wipers, on there own were going full bore and I could not stop them.


Did exactly what you did, found some, not exactly tight fuses, and it never happen again. We had the thing for almost 3 yrs. and 23,000 miles, not another issue.

 

We have a 2012 R/T and started having the problem of starting, dying, and then failure to restart (crank but like there's no spark or fuel), unless we cycle the ignition all the way off with foot off the brake. Most of the time, it would restart with no problems. Possibly lucky for us, the problem started while still under warranty. Of course, it was too intermittent to be duplicated by the service folks at the time; but it's logged in the system. Weirdly, the problem seemed to go away after we changed out the spark plugs at 32,000 miles. In the last few weeks (now at 42,000 miles), the problem is back at least once every day. Yesterday, it happened 7 times while my wife ran several short trip errands, and I experienced it twice that evening when the family went out for a treat and stopped for fuel. I did the online research and found this thread.

Here's my opinion of this thread: I think this discussion is about similar symptoms with two or three root causes. Faulty TIPMs could be a root cause of our symptom, but it sounds like bad TIPMs have more symptoms than just failing to stay running upon initial start up (such as dying while driving down the road). I checked the TIPM (fuse box) this morning, and found 75% of the fuses/relays didn't seem seated; but I now believe that's a normal effect of vibration as the symptom happened again today; and those fuses appear designed to allow a little slop.

Since our only symptom is failure to stay running upon initial startup, and then cranking with failure to run without cycling the system all the way off, AND when that's happening, the security light is flashing, I became more convinced our issue is the Wireless Interface Node (WIN). So, today, I decided to RTFM to see how to use the emergency key to start the vehicle in case the WIN fails altogether only to find the car is only designed to only be unlocked with the emergency key - starting still requires a wireless handshake between the fob and the WIN, even if the fob battery is dead by inserting the fob into the WIN. However, I found these gems buried in the text:

"The system will shut the engine off in two seconds if an invalid Key Fob is used to start the engine."

"In addition, if the light begins to flash after the bulb check, it indicates that someone used an invalid Key Fob to start the engine."

So, now I'm pretty sure the WIN is "thinking" that we occasionally, and now more often, have invalid fobs.

The final gem in the owners manual I found:

"This device [The Sentry Key system] must accept any interference that may be received, including interference that may cause undesired operation."

I couldn't find anything about what frequencies the WIN/key fobs use; but before I run off and try to force the dealer to replace the WIN, I'm going to replace the 2+ year old batteries in the key fobs and see if that solves the issue under the theory the signal is now sufficiently weak that it is more susceptible to interference, or doesn't look "right" to the WIN....Another thought: when it failed twice, my wife and I each had our key fob with us - which makes me wonder if the system is designed poorly enough that two key fobs could interfere with each other.

One last poke at FCA: Why would they write software code to allow us to burn up our starter motors when the Sentry System is detecting an invalid fob? Instead of cutting spark or fuel, why not disallow the starter from cranking while flashing the security light?

And now a word about the dealers: Either they are evil and trying to take advantage of ignorant customers who don't have or don't take the time to read the manual, or they are poorly trained by FCA. When I read these horror stories of dealers replacing parts not related to the root cause of the problem, I get angry at both. FCA is putting out good products, but they have to stand behind them and show more knowledge of how their products work and show more respect and trustworthiness to their customers if they are to retain them for the next purchase.

 

"which makes me wonder if the system is designed poorly enough that two key fobs could interfere with each other."


Hmmm, you may have a winner

 

That's exactly my problem and it hasn't recurred since I replaced the plugs three weeks ago. I had checked my fuses and all were seated. I never got the flashing security light, however.

A had relatively new batteries in the fob and only one fob near the vehicle when I had the problem.

I guess I wait and see......

 

After a long drive to the beach, we stopped to get a bite to eat. After a hour, we came out and the durango started, ran choppy, then died. Tried to restart it, worked fine. Havent bad the problem since.

Im going to check the fuses in the tipm, and make sure theyre seated. But if this happens more, probably be trading the rango in. Hate to do it, as i love the vehicle, but im not payin 1500 for a piece of equipment that has had well documented issues

I dont even know what id get. Refuse to buy an overpriced exploder, the 4runner rides like a full size truck. May just go to a tahoe. I dunno

 

You guys that Love your D's but hate these issues really need to look into these Warranties. As you can see below I paid $2,600 For the Lifetime Max Care. I have already had just over $2,000 worth of parts (including labor) replaced on my D. The Strut, the TIPM, ABS sensor, and my driver mirror. I too love this vehicle but the amount of expensive electronics in it, and a 1st year vehicle worried me enough to purchase the warranty. Plus I plan on driving the wheels off this thing, was not sure if it would pay off at first, now I am positive it will. It still sucks when something goes wrong, but me knowing I am only shelling out $100.00 bucks puts a smile on my face. Woblik, if you bought yours new you could still pay $2,600 out and still be ahead of the money curve from the loss you took driving it off the lot, plus the hit you would take on the new one you purchased, and keep the vehicle you love. As long as you are under 45K you can get the lifetime.

 

I'm not sure where our problem is, but ours is not starting on occasion, just spinning. It takes a cycle or two to get it fired up. We are out of warranty(67k miles) so not sure what to do. Checked all of the fuses and they all seemed well seated.

Chris

 

I am at 45k. And paying 2600 or more for a possible tipm ($1800), id rather just trade it in

 

Amen, especially since I just got notice that they are extending the warranty
on the left cylinder head on my '12 Crew to 10 years/150,000 miles from 5/100. No problems there . . .yet?
The truck has only 38K on it but I couldn't afford a new car at this time . . . unless a tree falls on this one. I don't want to pay for the extended warranty so I gotta just hope nothings goes up.

 

I think I will be fighting for a "goodwill" on Chyrsler's part. Like everyone has said, its a KNOWN issue. It is not a wear item or a 10 year old vehicle for crying out loud.

Chris