EXHAUST MANIFOLD BROKEN BOLTS ON A 2004 RAM 1500
#22
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: South Georgia/East Florida
Posts: 24,686
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Better to have to re-torque bolts once or twice a year than having the block re-tapped, I think...
And yeah pop, I'm just using the black bolts that came from Pacesetter, myself...
#24
I had the same thing happen on my '05 5.7. Two bolts, passenger side, rear, top & bottom. I ran around with the tick for awhile till it got to the point of being annoying. Took to a couple of shops. One said he had to jack the motor up drill out the broken bolts, install a new manifold, etc. Another shop told me he could go in through the wheelwell after removing the liner. Told me new manifold was about $85.00. I gave him the job. Removed one broken bolt. Drilled out the other. Replaced the gasket, exhaust flange & man. bolts. Manifold was fine. He also found the belt tensioner was a goner. Replaced that too. Did it all for just over $300. Had it done by the end of the day.
I thought that was fair. No problems since.
I thought that was fair. No problems since.
#25
2005 ram 1500 slt exhaust manifold bolts broken
I agree with all you guys. Right now, my truck is at my High School auto shop, up on the lift, and the teacher and students are pulling the manifold to put on the new gasket and to replace the missing bolts. Found out that one bolt is sheared off at the manifold, and the other bolt is simply missing. Both are the passenger side, rear side of the manifold near the firewall. I went to the dealership to get the stock OEM bolts/studs. I found some online, but the price was very comparable so I just went local for the parts. Overall, I'm happy with the truck and the motor.....although I would like more power (mainly for towing) and better gas mileage out of the motor. I've thought of putting on an AirRaid system....any of you guys have any recommendations in that area?
#27
I agree with all you guys. Right now, my truck is at my High School auto shop, up on the lift, and the teacher and students are pulling the manifold to put on the new gasket and to replace the missing bolts. Found out that one bolt is sheared off at the manifold, and the other bolt is simply missing. Both are the passenger side, rear side of the manifold near the firewall. I went to the dealership to get the stock OEM bolts/studs. I found some online, but the price was very comparable so I just went local for the parts. Overall, I'm happy with the truck and the motor.....although I would like more power (mainly for towing) and better gas mileage out of the motor. I've thought of putting on an AirRaid system....any of you guys have any recommendations in that area?
#28
Same here
Had the rear 3 studs break on my passenger side (04 1500 5.7). The top rear and 2 bottom rear. Odd thing is rest came off easy with just a ratchet. The broken ones came easily with vice grips.
The 10m bolts are cheap andeasy to find, but studs that hold heat shield are ridiculous. I'm actually contemplating tossing the shields, but not sure if the 10m bolts would fit right. Percy's has a pretty thick gasket which should negate the slight warp in maniold. Im hoping to retorque every few days and essentially flatten it back out.
As far as discarding the heat shield, I'm just sick of those studs at $40 a pack. If I have to fabticate a heat shield, or new way to mount existing one, I feel like it'll be worth it to eliminate the studs. Junk design, imo.
Stuck between that or grabbing some BBK shorty headers. 300 bucks to do bth sides, new gaskets AND new hardware. Better perormance plus cheaper fix, conidering it's good to do both sides.
[QUOcm between that TE=dvs1;1401250]best thing to do is remove the manifold by heating the nuts w/ a propane torch. after the manifold is removed, plug the exhaust port w/ a shop rag or somthing. then weld a nut to the end of the stud, if you have a welder or now someone who does. hit the nut head on a couple good times and then work the stud loose with a wrench. ive done this many times. good luck.[/QUOTE]
The 10m bolts are cheap andeasy to find, but studs that hold heat shield are ridiculous. I'm actually contemplating tossing the shields, but not sure if the 10m bolts would fit right. Percy's has a pretty thick gasket which should negate the slight warp in maniold. Im hoping to retorque every few days and essentially flatten it back out.
As far as discarding the heat shield, I'm just sick of those studs at $40 a pack. If I have to fabticate a heat shield, or new way to mount existing one, I feel like it'll be worth it to eliminate the studs. Junk design, imo.
Stuck between that or grabbing some BBK shorty headers. 300 bucks to do bth sides, new gaskets AND new hardware. Better perormance plus cheaper fix, conidering it's good to do both sides.
[QUOcm between that TE=dvs1;1401250]best thing to do is remove the manifold by heating the nuts w/ a propane torch. after the manifold is removed, plug the exhaust port w/ a shop rag or somthing. then weld a nut to the end of the stud, if you have a welder or now someone who does. hit the nut head on a couple good times and then work the stud loose with a wrench. ive done this many times. good luck.[/QUOTE]
Last edited by James (3rd Gen 5.7); 12-07-2016 at 03:02 AM.
#29
#30
Thoughts?