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EXHAUST MANIFOLD BROKEN BOLTS ON A 2004 RAM 1500

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  #21  
Old 09-06-2011, 02:03 AM
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i can't fit grade 8's on due to clearance issues with my TTI headers, though the TTI bolts do just fine. I hear good things about percy's locking bolts though.
 
  #22  
Old 09-06-2011, 04:58 AM
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Originally Posted by popdog
i can't fit grade 8's on due to clearance issues with my TTI headers, though the TTI bolts do just fine. I hear good things about percy's locking bolts though.
locking bolts are good UNLESS you have an aluminum block, where they will tend to strip the threads in the block. There should be some give somewhere and if locking bolts are used in soft aluminum, the give is the weakest link - the threads.

Better to have to re-torque bolts once or twice a year than having the block re-tapped, I think...

And yeah pop, I'm just using the black bolts that came from Pacesetter, myself...
 
  #23  
Old 09-06-2011, 12:24 PM
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Default Exhaust manifold bolts/studs

Thanks guys for the info and help. I'll let you know how things come out.
 
  #24  
Old 09-07-2011, 10:28 AM
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I had the same thing happen on my '05 5.7. Two bolts, passenger side, rear, top & bottom. I ran around with the tick for awhile till it got to the point of being annoying. Took to a couple of shops. One said he had to jack the motor up drill out the broken bolts, install a new manifold, etc. Another shop told me he could go in through the wheelwell after removing the liner. Told me new manifold was about $85.00. I gave him the job. Removed one broken bolt. Drilled out the other. Replaced the gasket, exhaust flange & man. bolts. Manifold was fine. He also found the belt tensioner was a goner. Replaced that too. Did it all for just over $300. Had it done by the end of the day.
I thought that was fair. No problems since.
 
  #25  
Old 09-07-2011, 01:00 PM
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Default 2005 ram 1500 slt exhaust manifold bolts broken

I agree with all you guys. Right now, my truck is at my High School auto shop, up on the lift, and the teacher and students are pulling the manifold to put on the new gasket and to replace the missing bolts. Found out that one bolt is sheared off at the manifold, and the other bolt is simply missing. Both are the passenger side, rear side of the manifold near the firewall. I went to the dealership to get the stock OEM bolts/studs. I found some online, but the price was very comparable so I just went local for the parts. Overall, I'm happy with the truck and the motor.....although I would like more power (mainly for towing) and better gas mileage out of the motor. I've thought of putting on an AirRaid system....any of you guys have any recommendations in that area?
 
  #26  
Old 09-07-2011, 09:18 PM
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Certainly an old thread here but I use Grade 8s in my Pacesetter LTs.

Broken OEM manifold bolts are common actually.
 
  #27  
Old 09-08-2011, 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by intruder7583
I agree with all you guys. Right now, my truck is at my High School auto shop, up on the lift, and the teacher and students are pulling the manifold to put on the new gasket and to replace the missing bolts. Found out that one bolt is sheared off at the manifold, and the other bolt is simply missing. Both are the passenger side, rear side of the manifold near the firewall. I went to the dealership to get the stock OEM bolts/studs. I found some online, but the price was very comparable so I just went local for the parts. Overall, I'm happy with the truck and the motor.....although I would like more power (mainly for towing) and better gas mileage out of the motor. I've thought of putting on an AirRaid system....any of you guys have any recommendations in that area?
If you're towing and want/need more power, the answer is gears.
 
  #28  
Old 12-07-2016, 02:56 AM
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Default Same here

Had the rear 3 studs break on my passenger side (04 1500 5.7). The top rear and 2 bottom rear. Odd thing is rest came off easy with just a ratchet. The broken ones came easily with vice grips.

The 10m bolts are cheap andeasy to find, but studs that hold heat shield are ridiculous. I'm actually contemplating tossing the shields, but not sure if the 10m bolts would fit right. Percy's has a pretty thick gasket which should negate the slight warp in maniold. Im hoping to retorque every few days and essentially flatten it back out.

As far as discarding the heat shield, I'm just sick of those studs at $40 a pack. If I have to fabticate a heat shield, or new way to mount existing one, I feel like it'll be worth it to eliminate the studs. Junk design, imo.

Stuck between that or grabbing some BBK shorty headers. 300 bucks to do bth sides, new gaskets AND new hardware. Better perormance plus cheaper fix, conidering it's good to do both sides.


[QUOcm between that TE=dvs1;1401250]best thing to do is remove the manifold by heating the nuts w/ a propane torch. after the manifold is removed, plug the exhaust port w/ a shop rag or somthing. then weld a nut to the end of the stud, if you have a welder or now someone who does. hit the nut head on a couple good times and then work the stud loose with a wrench. ive done this many times. good luck.[/QUOTE]
 

Last edited by James (3rd Gen 5.7); 12-07-2016 at 03:02 AM.
  #29  
Old 12-07-2016, 09:10 AM
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bolts or studs will keep breaking until they redesign the manifold. Its no coincidence the bolts snap off flush with the block. the manifolds expand out sideways and shear the bolt. Gm had the same issue and fixed it by elongating the manifold bolt hole bores.
 
  #30  
Old 12-07-2016, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by primem
bolts or studs will keep breaking until they redesign the manifold. Its no coincidence the bolts snap off flush with the block. the manifolds expand out sideways and shear the bolt. Gm had the same issue and fixed it by elongating the manifold bolt hole bores.
Thanks for this insight, primem. Wondering if a reliable DIY fix might be to elongate the manifold holes with a rat tail file.

Thoughts?
 



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