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Retainer Clip / "C-Clip" Woes

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  #1  
Old 05-13-2009, 01:39 PM
JY VPI JY VPI is offline
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Default Retainer Clip / "C-Clip" Woes

Add me to the club. Here's the background:

-Recently purchased 2003 1500 HEMI w/ the nasty 9.25 from previous owner
-No symptoms of differential probs
-Maintenance history fairly unknown

I brought the truck into the shop for a thorough maintenance, and with the rear diff service they gave me the bad news. Pieces of broken retainer clips sitting at the bottom, metal flakes, and the housing is worn down a few mm.

Looks like I'm in need of a full replacement (differential AND housing). Here are my options:

1.) Factory new rear end w/ 9.25 LSD --> same problem again is inevitable?
2.) Donor, used rear end w/ 9.25 LSD --> same problem again sooner?
3.) Donor, used open rear end w/ no LSD --> no more problems but no LSD


I have done as much reading as I can in the past 24 hours but haven't found a good answer for my questions, sorry.


Q: If I went with option #3 open differential replacement, can I get an aftermarket LSD like Auburn or Truetrac mated up to it or does it not work that way? What would you do in my situation?

Q: In the meantime, really how dangerous is it for me to be driving around?



Thanks,
JY
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Last edited by JY VPI; 05-13-2009 at 01:39 PM.. Reason: Frustration
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  #2  
Old 05-13-2009, 02:17 PM
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Or, just get yourself a Detroit Truetrac. best $550 you'll ever spend and no more C-clip worries.
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Old 05-13-2009, 02:34 PM
JY VPI JY VPI is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtydog View Post
Or, just get yourself a Detroit Truetrac. best $550 you'll ever spend and no more C-clip worries.
Right, that's my first question above. It's gonna be $550 for the Truetrac, but also $X for the new housing. So instead of getting the factory housing & LSD, can I get a factory housing from an open differential (cheaper) and just put the Truetrac in there? Or does it not work like that.
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Old 05-14-2009, 01:59 PM
JY VPI JY VPI is offline
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Anyone at least know how dangerous it is to ride around (specifically hwy speeds) in its current condition?
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Old 05-14-2009, 02:43 PM
Alpheus Alpheus is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JY VPI View Post
Right, that's my first question above. It's gonna be $550 for the Truetrac, but also $X for the new housing. So instead of getting the factory housing & LSD, can I get a factory housing from an open differential (cheaper) and just put the Truetrac in there? Or does it not work like that.
It will work if you have an open LSD. How bad is your housing? Is it leaking or cracked? Why do you need a new one???
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Old 05-14-2009, 03:45 PM
JY VPI JY VPI is offline
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Originally Posted by Alpheus View Post
How bad is your housing? Is it leaking or cracked? Why do you need a new one???
As far as I could tell it was just worn down, but I really don't know what I'm looking at. My mech said the housing needed replacement. It didn't appear to be leaking or cracked though, just worn into by the jacked clips.
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Old 05-14-2009, 04:40 PM
JY VPI JY VPI is offline
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Ok got some news from the shop. Here are the notes.

- New, OEM rear end + labor = $4000
- Used, OEM rear end + labor = $2300
- According to my VIN there is no option to get an open rear end, but they are double checking.
- After asking why the entire housing needs to be replaced, the reason was "due to the damage done by the clip that backed out where it wore into the housing. wouldn't be able to put in a new carrier w/ the damaged housing"

This sounds crazy to me. I have another appointment w/ a shop on Monday for them to check it out. He said that a rough estimate on a used rear end (if even needed) + labor would be closer to $1200.

So confused right now. What do you guys think? I know that w/o pictures of the damage done to the housing there's no way to tell whether or not I need a new one.
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Old 05-14-2009, 05:36 PM
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those first prices sound pretty steep! good thing your getting a second look by different shop.
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Old 05-14-2009, 08:08 PM
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Let the guys that know on this forum help you with this one; for $4K you should be able to get a custom-made application. Sounds like they are trying to 'bail-out' Chrysler with "YOUR" REAR END!
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Old 05-14-2009, 09:23 PM
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Sounds like the same story a buddy of mine told me last week about his trany on his Chevy truck. Dealer told him he was out of warranty by 4k and it would be $2500 rebuilt or $3200 new factory for his transmission. Told them to put it back together and took it to a local mom and pop trany shop for a second opinion. Walked out with a bill for $88 and seams to be running great (for now). They told him the pan was never dropped at the dealer. He paid the dealer $150 dollars for them to give him a quote and they didn't even drop the pan?? I hope this dealer is on the GM chopping block next week. This is why dealers get a bad reputation.
By the way a used rear end should cost no more than $1500 installed and this is a little on the high side
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Old 05-15-2009, 02:37 AM
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Just buy a used rear end, get a mechanic friend if you have one, buy a case of beer, give case of beer to mechanic, have mechanic fix the rear end. Make sure he doesnt drink it till the job is almost done though. Then help him finish the beer. The more you drink then the less you just payed him. LOL!
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Old 05-15-2009, 02:46 AM
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Get a used rear end.
Install a new DTT c/w a superior install kit which contains all the necessary new bearings, seals and new crush sleeve etc.
This will make the used rear "like new" again.
With the DTT you will have a bullet proff rear and no more worries.
I replaced my crappy stock LSD with a DTT and I have both peace of mind and a great planted axel.
Here's a pic of my axel and DTT install.

Click the image to open in full size.

Hope this helps?
AL.
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Last edited by abarmby; 05-15-2009 at 02:48 AM.. Reason: added picture
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Old 07-21-2009, 01:07 AM
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Click the image to open in full size.

Anyone have tips on the kits and tools needed to overhaul my 9.25 LSD trac-loc differential? Im having the same issue with my 02 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab. Ive been driving for about a year with a noisy pinion bearing. On a tight budget all I could to in the meantime is frequently change the axel lube with heavy weight synthetic gear lube in hopes to keep the metal bearing shavings down to a minimum. The first lube change I did of course laying inside on the magnet were those c clips everyone seems to find. I dont believe I need to replace the housing. The only leaking I see is the gear lube out the pinion. Ive had the rear tires off a few times and didn't see any seepage out the axel ends. With luck I may get by without having to replace much more than the seals and bearings. I may replace the LSD trac-loc with the 9.25 12 Bolt Auburn Posi LSD. Ive rebuilt a few motors in the past but this will be a first with an axel overhaul. Thanks in advance. Doug
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Last edited by DougieFresh1970; 07-21-2009 at 02:10 AM.. Reason: add photo
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Old 07-21-2009, 01:07 AM
 
 
 
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925, broken, chrysler, clip, clips, differential, dodge, issues, limited, neon, problem, ram, retainer, slip, symptoms

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