Rear pinion seal leak? - DodgeForum.com



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Rear pinion seal leak?

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Old 07-01-2009, 05:27 PM
mattg1500 mattg1500 is offline
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Default Rear pinion seal leak?

I have a leak on my rear pinion seal and was wondering how to replace it. can i just drop the driveshaft unbolt the yolk and replace the seal?
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Old 07-01-2009, 05:32 PM
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a post from the other day http://dodgeforum.com/forum/3rd-gen-ram/205818-leak.html



The link won't work for me???? I'll bump up the thread. It says LEAK
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Old 07-01-2009, 07:01 PM
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Yes, you can do as you said in your post, but, the pinion nut MUST be in the exact place it was before you removed it when your done. It sets the pre-tension and crush washer for the pinion.
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Old 07-01-2009, 08:26 PM
mattg1500 mattg1500 is offline
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how would i ensure it is in the same position? i was going to just torque it when done.
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Old 07-01-2009, 10:17 PM
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mark with a wax pencil
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Old 07-01-2009, 11:33 PM
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I used a paint marker on mine
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Old 07-01-2009, 11:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fris View Post
I used a paint marker on mine
This.

Or just buy a new stake nut since technically they can't be re-torqued.
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Old 07-02-2009, 12:36 AM
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Since my link didn't work and you didn't read the other thread i bumped for you. here was what I posted.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fris
You have to make sure you retighten the big 32mm nut holding the flange the same way you remove it. If you tighten it too much or not enough you can mess with the backlash of the gears, or so I've heard.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirtydog
10-15ft/lbs for an old crush collar like you have is what I have found out there for specs. Going the cheap easy route like you stated is not the correct way, but most garages will do it that way because nobody wants to spend $800 for one lousy oil seal repair. The reason is because the collar is suppose to be seated without the carrier inside the rear diff by the amount of rotational drag.
Now as easier way is to mark the nut and yoke. Then, count the number of turns it took to remove the nut. Replace the seal. Re-install the nut to the position in which you took it from. Tighten it a little bit (less than 1/8 of a turn) past the original markings. This is a better way to do things so to keep near the same drag as before. But the true way is to remove the entire rear diff guts and start from scratch! Of course i wouldn't go that route even if it was my own truck. i would just mark the nut, count the turns and be on my way. No actual need for torquing at that point.
The crush collar tightening is one of the most important things to do in a rear diff to keep everything harmonized.
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Old 07-02-2009, 07:49 AM
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good info dog
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