3rd Gen Ram Tech2002-2008 Rams: This section is for TECHNICAL discussions only, that involve the 2002 through 2008 Rams Rams. For any non-tech discussions, please direct your attention to the "General discussion/NON-tech" sub sections.
My oil pan has almost rusted through on the entire lower section and needs to be replaced. My dealer wants almost $600 to do this. I will be doing it myself due to cost.
Question, is it necessary to raise the engine to do this? Engine is the 4.7 Magnum. I checked it out and it looks like it will just about slide right out after removing the trans support at the rear of the pan. Truck is a 2002 quad cab 4x4 Ram.
This ad is not displayed to registered and logged-in members. Register your free account today and become a member on Dodge Forums!
(1) Disconnect the negative battery cable.
(2) Install engine support fixture special tool #
Do not raise engine at this time.
(3) Loosen both left and right side engine mount
through bolts. Do not remove bolts.
(5) Remove the structural dust cover, if equipped.
(6) Drain engine oil.
(7) Remove the front crossmember(Refer to 13 -
FRAME & BUMPERS/FRAME/FRONT CROSSMEMBER
CAUTION: Only raise the engine enough to provide
clearance for oil pan removal. Check for proper
clearance at fan shroud to fan and cowl to intake
(8) Raise engine using special tool # 8534 to provide
clearance to remove oil pan.
NOTE: Do not pry on oil pan or oil pan gasket. Gasket
is integral to engine windage tray and does not
come out with oil pan.
(9) Remove the oil pan mounting bolts and oil pan.
(10) Unbolt oil pump pickup tube and remove
(11) Inspect the integral windage tray and gasket
and replace as needed.
Now this does not address guys with 4WD. Considering the promixity of the oil pan to the front diff, it would be easy to assume that needs to be lower/removed to drop the pan.
My stratus oil pan was almost rusted through. i was surprised to see that myself. My fathers Diff cover rusted through on his Ferd. it was only a 2002, but he does lots of snowmobiling and the roads are just smothered with rocksalt. They use so much here, it's like driving on the beach all the time in the winter! the roads are just stained white until about April or so.
well having pulled my oil pan before i personally thought it wasnt too difficult. the directions posted above are way non-essential. theres a cross member thats in the way of dropping the oil pan, you must remove that, i believe its 4 bolts. once you do that remove all the bolts around the oil pan. once you pull that down thats it. theres 2 maybe 3 bolts holding the gasket in along with the pickup tube. remove those and replace the gasket and your rusted pan. bolt back together and your done. ill get under my truck tomorrow to be sure, but PM me if any questions...i think there was 1 or 2 bolts on the pan that were a PITA to get to, but ill look to remember. oh and you have to remove that dust cover on the tranny as stated in the directions above...almost forgot that...i believe that was the 2 bolts that were hard to get to...remove the dust cover and your good.
I know this is an old thread but, just in case you came to this thread wondering....
The guy that did my oil pan in my 2002 4.7 ram 1500 (last week), said that although he prepared to, raising the engine was not absolutely necessary. AND at 57,000 it would have started to weep through real soon.
"Never judge a man until you've walked a mile in his shoes ... For when you do, you will be a mile away from him, and he will have no shoes"
I am wondering if there is enough clearance to rebuild lower end bearings, if i take off pan does anyone think this is possible? My gauge kept showing low pressure this week. I replaced the sending unit today. I am hoping that was the issue. With 400,000 on it I don't think it has long either way. So i am thinking ahead on this one.
You certainly would spend a lot of time on your back. The 4.7l mains are part of a cast section, there are no single bearing caps so they can't be changed one at a time. I think you'd have to take the front of the engine off, remove the timing, and remove that portion of the "block". I'm not sure how the transmission would play into things but it would be the only thing left holding the crankshaft into position.
You certainly would spend a lot of time on your back. The 4.7l mains are part of a cast section, there are no single bearing caps so they can't be changed one at a time. I think you'd have to take the front of the engine off, remove the timing, and remove that portion of the "block". I'm not sure how the transmission would play into things but it would be the only thing left holding the crankshaft into position. Steve
Hmmmm best to ****** it. The oil sending unit fixed problem I was having ( y I was considering ).
Found this thread when replacing the oil pan on my 2004 RAM 1500 4.7L 4x4. Oil was dripping through it was so rusted! Wow!
The FSM does not mention anything about removing the driver's side engine mount supporting bracket. This needs to be unbolted in order to remove the structural dust cover in order to get to the oil pan bolts. There were 11 bolts, and the bracket was still stuck in a small cavity, but I was able to move it out of the way enough to get the structural dust cover off. Also had to take out the throughbolts for the front axle. The gasket/windage tray was very stuck to the pan, had to use a prybar and really mangle things to get the pan to drop in order to get to the 3 nuts and 1 bolt of the gasket/windage tray. Threading in the bolts for the engine mount supporting bracket was almost impossible for each bolt. Starting with the four to the front of the truck was the trick, but took hours to get things threaded properly. Getting the throughbolts back in for the front axle was also tough, ended up using a floor jack and transmission jack and playing with it. Think twice before you tackle this, unless you are good with aligning things!