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5.7L Hemi-Broken Valve Spring - Help

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  #11  
Old 03-14-2010, 12:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Superchargedram View Post
VERY EASY TASK!!!

Your not going to push that spring down to remove the retainer with out a spring removal tool which you can rent from O'riellys, If you get the BIG Cclamp remover you will have to pull your head to use it.
Are you saying the heads need to come off to change the valve springs?
I haven't done a spring change on the dodge but I really doubt that is the case. Yes "C" clamp style spring compressor make the job easier, but there should be something to compress the spring from the top. Hell I've stripped heads using a socket and hammer and just bounced the keepers out of the retainer. Quick and dirty....
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  #12  
Old 03-14-2010, 03:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedTruck-VA View Post
Are you saying the heads need to come off to change the valve springs?
I haven't done a spring change on the dodge but I really doubt that is the case. Yes "C" clamp style spring compressor make the job easier, but there should be something to compress the spring from the top. Hell I've stripped heads using a socket and hammer and just bounced the keepers out of the retainer. Quick and dirty....
Heh heh heh.............I've done the socket thing too lol.

I'm also interested in what you say about the intake springs as well.
Do the Intakes also need changing or is it just the exhaust valves?

Hope you get things sorted FireFighter. Plus, I do hope you havent dropped a valve?
Post up what you find please....and.......
Were all picture ****** on here lol.
Al.
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  #13  
Old 03-14-2010, 01:25 PM
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EASY TASK for some I guess I am just letting it intimidate me too much because of the TDC stuff, etc.

I had trouble getting the valve cover off, but finally got it off. So far, I don't see a broken spring on the right side. I got an extension mirror and looked all around the lower springs, they look ok. Soooo, heading out now to take the left side off. I couldn't get to it last night. I chose that side 1st due to the knocking/tapping I heard on that valve cover. I should have done a compression test 1st but didn't want to risk damage to valve/piston.

I really thank you guys so much, this is a great forum. Yep, I can take some pic's if you guys want, let's wait til I get the other cover off. I will tell you this, whomever the original owner was didn't change oil, it's frigging disgusting in there, looks like it ran pretty hot at some point. Found a couple patches of caked crap and sludge.

I will update soon!
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  #14  
Old 03-14-2010, 01:34 PM
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I have used the socket and hammer method BUT on these heads if you have the cheap O rental tool for o-reillys its good for springs with NO DAMNERS like the comp sprigns OR the 2003 ONLY, The C-clamp tool uses the bottom of the valve to compress down the spring so in other words you will have to have your HEAD OFF. Theres a tool out there that will bolt into you rocker arm assembley it runs 70 bucks another forum member makes it its very easy to use.

As for the springs ***WHEN UPGRADING TO 6.1 SPRINGS BE SURE YOU USE 16 6.1 EXAHUST SPRINGS*** The 6.1 exahust spring is the prefect replacement for use with us 5.7 HEMI guys it has plenty of lift capability and strength, the 6.1 intake valves are LONGER than ours so if you use the intake springs you will get incorrect seat pressures. Now to install these your probaly going to need to use that C-clamp tool OR the rocker arm tool, so with that being said you cheapest and easiest fix will be getting the cheap tool ( look below for pics) and getting 1 replacement valve spring and be done and hope next time you dont drop a valve in the cylinder, OR you can plan yo change to 6.1 springs and it will involve removing the heads if you cant get the (dealership tool) or the rocker arm tool, and since your doing that do your self a favor and pick up a 6.1 cam to toss in there since your going to be that far into the engine anyhow ha ha Pm if you need further instruction Ill give you my number and Ill walk you through I have done MANY cam installs, head swaps, tranny rebuilds, Hell everything involving these trucks.

C-CLAMP STYLE ONE ( I used this one on alot of ATV engines)

Click the image to open in full size.

C-CLAMP STYLE 2 ( I use this one personally)
Cant find a pic BUT its avaible at Advanced auto parts for rent
CHEAP O Oreillys TOOL it works but its a PITA this would be your best bet for your type springs
Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.
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  #15  
Old 03-14-2010, 02:23 PM
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Not sure what spring they sold me, but yes it does have the metal bucket retainer on the bottom. I bought two just in case. Yes, would love to do all right now but can't, as this truck is my only means of income, so quick fix and plan on swapping rest within a few weeks. I know....xtra work. As for tools, I bought one at Advance Auto (all we have locally plus Autozone), looks like it should work pretty good (pic below), I saw the one by the member in the FAQ Cam Swap, that tool is sweet!



Click the image to open in full size.

I just googled the spring part #, found this info on a Chrysler forum...the dealer sold me the "AE" spring. I hope it's correct.

2005-2007 6.1L - LX & Grand Cherokee

5037382AB Spring, Intake
5037477AB Spring, Exhaust

5037372AB Valve, intake
5037373AB Valve, exhaust

5037379AC Camshaft (superseded from 5037379AB)


2003-2007 5.7L/5.7L MDS - LX, Grand Cherokee, Ram, Durango, Commander

53021580AE Spring

53021550AA Valve, Intake
53021551AB Valve, Exhaust

53021731AD Camshaft (w/o MDS)
53021730BA Camshaft (with MDS) (superseded from 53021730AC)

___________________________________

Ok, be back in a bit to update what I find under the other valve cover. Oh...Abarmby, did ya want pics of me or the motor?
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  #16  
Old 03-14-2010, 02:25 PM
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Here you go FireFighter from another emergency services worker.
Hope this helps? The link is to the guy mentioned above, who makes this spring removal tool. They are the biz as we say here in the UK.
I don't have any affiliations to this guy, but a lot of people say this tool is cool on the other forum.
Al.


100% self made valve spring compressor. works very well for swapping out springs w/ heads still on the vehicle. save yourself some cash & headaches.

$75 SHIPPED

direct email & paypal address: camberadam@comcast.net

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Click the image to open in full size.
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  #17  
Old 03-14-2010, 02:37 PM
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I have not see that tool you got there. That spring you have with the bucket will be fine for the time being since you plan to change soon anyways good luck with your swap.
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  #18  
Old 03-14-2010, 05:46 PM
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Ive got that tool as shown in post 16 and it works great. As said before, I did a write up that describes everything. You should have no issues. If you are not wanting to buy all new springs and replace just the one, Ive got my old 5.7 springs (04) and you can have one or all for the shipping costs.
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  #19  
Old 03-14-2010, 05:52 PM
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I've got the tool posted above in post 16 as well. Have not had a chance to use it yet but it seems like a very well made piece and he will make it for you and have it shipped very quickly.
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  #20  
Old 03-14-2010, 06:17 PM
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Firstly, this forum is like a brotherhood, never seen such helpful group, just like the firehouse. Yes, that is the tool I want and will surely get to do the rest of the springs, it looks like such an ease....especially for a n00b like me. Hopefully this one I have will work ok, tight spot, right next to brake booster....of course it couldn't just be #1 or 2 cylinder.

Ok, got the left side off, and wahla...broken spring, same cylinder (#5) as before but on the upper (intake?) spring. I have a few questions if you don't mind answering, they are elementary but want to make sure I'm right before attempting.

1) Not related to problem but if you look at the pic's there is an almost like bronze/sunset color to the interior. I bought the truck used with 34K miles on it. Under both covers, there is gunk, sludge and I pulled out a couple 2" in diameter "wafers" of baked crap!! Almost looks like this motor got real hot one time before along with NO oil changes before I got it. Don't see how someone could treat their ride like this! What do you all think? I'm afraid that the initial abuse to this machine may cause a shortened life. Although, she's got 169K now and never a problem accept the two springs and alt.

Notice the pic of the lower spring, this is the one that got changed 4 years/60K miles ago, looks almost new...the way it should with proper oil changes.

2) Before I attempt to remove the rocker arm, should I get compressed air into the cylinder 1st should the spring fall apart? Don't wanna drop the valve. When I shoot the air, does it matter which plug hole I use? Any particular PSI I should use? My compressor works at 90PSI.

3) When I go to get the #5 cylinder TDC, can this be done from below the truck? It looks like the fan, etc will be in the way. I don't have a large breaker bar, maybe a 2 footer...this is not large enough is it? Any simple way of doing this? Never done it before. Also, when it's TDC, the spring should be fully extended/rocker arm raised, correct?

4) After the spring is removed, then I need to put a zip tie, etc on valve stem to keep it up, release the air and then move the valve up/down to make sure it's not bent correct?

5) Add air again, change spring, zip her up, start motor, smile, jump for joy that I've just completed a major task in my eyes?

Thanks weedahoe, that's awesome. I will let you know. Going to check on prices, etc. Money is tight right now so I may take you up on that. I see you're in GA also.

Abarmby...be safe brother...always enjoy meeting fellow firefighters. I'm Structural/1st Responder/Wildland Fire and soon to be Mounted (horse) Search & Rescue...volunteer at that but feels like fulltime



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Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 03-14-2010, 06:17 PM
 
 
 
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