5.7L Hemi-Broken Valve Spring - Help
#21
#22
Yes that is correct, maybe since you have a older 03 they made some changes and revised things I have 3 or 4 sets of heads laying around and they all have those seals, and WOW that is one FILTY engine valve train, Now Im a beleiver in the mobil1 synthetic with cleaning detergants this was on a 300C it was a 2006 with 93000 miles It has mobil1 ran through it since 500 miles,
Caminstall011.jpg?t=1268674911
Caminstall011.jpg?t=1268674911
Last edited by Superchargedram; 03-15-2010 at 01:44 PM.
#23
Yeah, no doubt. I'd like to you know what to the original owner for mistreating a motor like that. All I run through the LS1 is Mobile1 syn. as well. Any idea why it's that color in there?
Anyway, I connect compressed air to the cylinder and that air is escaping thru the throttle body which makes the compressor run continous. It's showing that there is only a steady 20-25psi, will this be enough to hold the valve in place? I have the piston TDC. Any risk of that spring falling apart when I remove the rocker? If so, then I need to have the air running during the whole process. Please let me know as I have stopped until I know for sure.
Thanks guys!
Anyway, I connect compressed air to the cylinder and that air is escaping thru the throttle body which makes the compressor run continous. It's showing that there is only a steady 20-25psi, will this be enough to hold the valve in place? I have the piston TDC. Any risk of that spring falling apart when I remove the rocker? If so, then I need to have the air running during the whole process. Please let me know as I have stopped until I know for sure.
Thanks guys!
#24
Yeah, no doubt. I'd like to you know what to the original owner for mistreating a motor like that. All I run through the LS1 is Mobile1 syn. as well. Any idea why it's that color in there?
Anyway, I connect compressed air to the cylinder and that air is escaping thru the throttle body which makes the compressor run continous. It's showing that there is only a steady 20-25psi, will this be enough to hold the valve in place? I have the piston TDC. Any risk of that spring falling apart when I remove the rocker? If so, then I need to have the air running during the whole process. Please let me know as I have stopped until I know for sure.
Thanks guys!
Anyway, I connect compressed air to the cylinder and that air is escaping thru the throttle body which makes the compressor run continous. It's showing that there is only a steady 20-25psi, will this be enough to hold the valve in place? I have the piston TDC. Any risk of that spring falling apart when I remove the rocker? If so, then I need to have the air running during the whole process. Please let me know as I have stopped until I know for sure.
Thanks guys!
Sounds as though the inlet valve is still open on the cylinder your applying the air to, to bleed back through to the TB the way your describing.
I wonder if the valves bent, not allowing the valve to come all the way up to seal as it should?
The cylinder should hold air if the valves are on there seats.
If air doesn't work, try the old "nylon cord" trick mentioned earlier in this thread.
That will get you to the point of removing the valve to check it's integrity.
Al.
#26
I think when I posted a while back about what psi should I use when doing a valve job, I was quoted 80psi.
Someone will post up. I think Weed has done it the air way when he installed his cam. He might post up the pressure he used.
As for the leak as RedTruck-VA said, are you sure your at TDC for that piston?
If you are, then the valve isn't seating and it could be bent if the spring is snapped.
If so, you will need new guides for that cylinder along with a valve and a valve job to get the new one seated.
Check the top of the piston in that cylinder with a boroscope, to make sure the top of the piston isn't damaged if you discover that the valves bent.
I know that most people would pull the head at that stage, if they found a bent valve.
Al.
Someone will post up. I think Weed has done it the air way when he installed his cam. He might post up the pressure he used.
As for the leak as RedTruck-VA said, are you sure your at TDC for that piston?
If you are, then the valve isn't seating and it could be bent if the spring is snapped.
If so, you will need new guides for that cylinder along with a valve and a valve job to get the new one seated.
Check the top of the piston in that cylinder with a boroscope, to make sure the top of the piston isn't damaged if you discover that the valves bent.
I know that most people would pull the head at that stage, if they found a bent valve.
Al.
Last edited by abarmby; 03-16-2010 at 04:47 AM.
#28
#29
Agreed, all 16 exhaust valve springs upgraded to the 6.1 springs is the way to go. But again he mentioned using an intake oil seal, so I don't know what's broken on his engine. Obviously exhaust valves run hotter than the intakes and this additional heat gets transfered to the spring to a certain extent and if the spring isn't top quality it can be prone to breakage.
#30
1) Not related to problem but if you look at the pic's there is an almost like bronze/sunset color to the interior. I bought the truck used with 34K miles on it. Under both covers, there is gunk, sludge and I pulled out a couple 2" in diameter "wafers" of baked crap!! Almost looks like this motor got real hot one time before along with NO oil changes before I got it. Don't see how someone could treat their ride like this! What do you all think? I'm afraid that the initial abuse to this machine may cause a shortened life. Although, she's got 169K now and never a problem accept the two springs and alt.
Notice the pic of the lower spring, this is the one that got changed 4 years/60K miles ago, looks almost new...the way it should with proper oil changes.
Notice the pic of the lower spring, this is the one that got changed 4 years/60K miles ago, looks almost new...the way it should with proper oil changes.
2) Before I attempt to remove the rocker arm, should I get compressed air into the cylinder 1st should the spring fall apart? Don't wanna drop the valve. When I shoot the air, does it matter which plug hole I use? Any particular PSI I should use? My compressor works at 90PSI.
Once that is done I put my spring compressor on, squeeze the spring, remove the keepers and retainer, release the valve, swap the valve, compress the valve, put back on the retainer and keepers and let the spring up slowly.
3) When I go to get the #5 cylinder TDC, can this be done from below the truck? It looks like the fan, etc will be in the way. I don't have a large breaker bar, maybe a 2 footer...this is not large enough is it? Any simple way of doing this? Never done it before. Also, when it's TDC, the spring should be fully extended/rocker arm raised, correct?
No prob and again, just LMK if you need anything.