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Old 07-07-2010, 10:12 AM
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Default A/C specs

Getting ready to service my a/c. I can't read the sticker because it's too distorted. Tried searching online with no luck. How much 134a does it take for a complete charge. Is the oil pag 100 ? and how much ? The only thing I can read for sure is that the 5.7 takes different oil than the other systems on different engines.

2003 2500 4x4, 5.7l.
 
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Old 07-07-2010, 10:22 AM
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I just went out and looked for ya.
Refrigerant:
1.0lb 11.0 oz.
part # 8300101

Compressor oil:
ND8 PAG
part # 82300102

It didn't say an amount for compressor oil, just the license plate looking numbers.
 
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Old 07-07-2010, 10:29 AM
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Thanks. Is ND8 pag the same as pag 100 ? The reason I ask is because I had a local parts store look up a new compressor to see what kind of oil it takes. They told me pag 100. The last time I worked on an a/c was years ago when it was still r12 and the oil was all the same. So I know squat about these new oils.
 
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Old 07-07-2010, 12:11 PM
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6.25 ozs of Pag 46 and 27 ozs of r134a. Yes and no about using different type of oil for the 5.7. They have different manufactors (5.7 has Nippondenso and the others use Sanden)of compressors but all still use PAG 46. Pag 46 is compatable with PAG 100, just different weight. Different manufactures have different part numbers for the same oil
 

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Old 07-07-2010, 02:27 PM
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Thanks for the replies. How worried should I be that it took 36 + ounces to get my gages up to the proper levels and to get the air as cold as it should be ? Low side around 35, high side around 225 at 90 degrees outside temp and high humidity. Air blowing at around 55 degrees at idle and 45 or so going down the road. ( my old snap-on gage is alittle hard to read )
 
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Old 07-08-2010, 12:18 PM
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I would be very worried. Newer A/C systems are not like systems of the past. OLder systems that used R12 and usually took 3 or 4 lbs of freon to fill. Newer systems are much more efficent and use quite abit less r134a. It was common in older systems to leak and need topped of yearly. Newer systems are less prone to leak and don't need topped off every year. More is not better, in your case 26 to 28 ozs would be all I would put in. Your pressure and tempature reads seem ok, but I bet you would get close to the same readings with 27 0zs if you let it settle. Did you weigh the refrigerant in or just put in 3 cans? Remember that cans are only 12 ozs and not a full pound. You should use just shy of 2.5 cans
 
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Old 07-08-2010, 05:13 PM
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SPECIFICATIONS
A/C SYSTEM
Item Description Notes
A/C Compressor Saden SD-7 (5.9L engine) SP-15 PAG oil
Denso 10S17 (3.7L/4.7L/5.7L/8.3L
engines)
ND-8 PAG oil
Freeze–up Control Evaporator Temperature Sensor A/C evaporator mounted
High psi Control A/C pressure transducer A/C discharge line mounted
Refrigerant Charge Capacity Refer to the A/C Underhood
Specification Label located in the
engine compartment.
R134a refrigerant
A/C Clutch Coil Draw 2 - 3.9 amps @ 12V ± 0.5V @ 21°
C (70° F)
5.9L engine
3.2 - 3.3 amps @ 12V ± 0.5V @
21° C (70° F)
3.7L/4.7L/5.7L/8.3L engines
A/C Clutch Air Gap 0.41 - 0.79 mm (0.016 - 0.031 in.) 5.9L engine
0.35 - 0.60 mm (0.013 - 0.024 in.) 3.7L/4.7L/5.7L/8.3L engines
24 - 198 HVAC - SERVICE INFORMATION DR/DH

A/C PERFORMANCE TEST
WARNING: Refer to the applicable warnings and cautions for this system before performing the following
operation (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING - WARNINGS) and (Refer to 24 - HEATING
& AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING - CAUTIONS). Failure to follow the warnings and cautions could result
in possible personal injury or death.
NOTE: When connecting the service equipment coupling to the line fitting, verify that the valve of the coupling
is fully closed. This will reduce the amount of effort required to make the connection.
1. Perform the A/C System Performance Test found within the HVAC System Test (refer to 24 - HVAC Electrical
Diagnostics). If no diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) are found in the A/C-heater control or the powertrain control
module (PCM), go to Step 2. If any DTCs are found, repair as required, then proceed to Step 2.
2. Connect a tachometer and a manifold gauge set.
3. Set the A/C-heater control to the Recirculation mode (max-A/C) position, the temperature control to the full cool
position, and the blower motor control to the highest speed position.
4. Start the engine and hold the idle at 1,000 rpm with the compressor clutch engaged. If the A/C compressor does
not engage, see the A/C Diagnosis chart.
5. The engine should be at operating temperature, the doors should be closed and the windows opened.
6. Insert a thermometer in the driver side center panel outlet and operate the A/C system until it stablizes.
NOTE: The A/C compressor clutch may cycle, depending upon the ambient temperature and humidity.If the
clutch cycles, use the readings obtained before the clutch disengaged.
7. With the A/C compressor clutch engaged, compare the air temperature at the center panel outlet and the A/C
compressor discharge pressure (high side) to the A/C Performance and Pressure chart.
PERFORMANCE TEMPERATURE AND PRESSURE
Ambient Air
Temperature
21° C
(70° F)
27° C
(80° F)
32° C
(90° F)
38° C
(100° F)
43° C
(110° F)
Air Temperature at
Center Panel Outlet
7° C
(45° F)
7° C
(45° F)
13° C
(55° F)
13° C
(55° F)
18° C
(64° F)
Compressor Inlet
Pressure at Service
Port (low Side)
138 to 207 kPa
(20 to 30 psi)
172 to 241 kPa
(25 to 35 psi)
207 to 276
kPa
(30 to 40 psi)
241 to 310
kPa
(35 to 45 psi)
276 to 345 kPa
(40 to 50 psi)
Compressor
Discharge Pressure at
Service Port (High
Side)
1034 to 1724
kPa
(150 to 250
psi)
1379 to 2068
kPa
(200 to 300
psi)
1724 to 2413
kPa
(250 to 350
psi)
1999 to 2689
kPa
(290 to 390
psi)
2413 to 2965
kPa
(350 to 430 psi)
8. If the air outlet temperature fails to meet the specifications in the A/C Performance Temperature and Pressure
chart, or if the A/C compressor discharge pressure is high, refer to the A/C Pressure Diagnosis chart.
 
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Old 04-03-2020, 03:23 PM
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Default 04 1500 hemi 4x2 slt

I evacuated the entire system at 73 ambient and refilled to specs as mentioned above and used 2.5 cans 27-28oz to achieve 30psi low side and high side within spec. Hasn't leaked or anything and actually was overfilled from years ago. Surprised nothing ruptured. Nonetheless just wanted to confirm 2.5 cans.


Originally Posted by Atomic Punk
I would be very worried. Newer A/C systems are not like systems of the past. OLder systems that used R12 and usually took 3 or 4 lbs of freon to fill. Newer systems are much more efficent and use quite abit less r134a. It was common in older systems to leak and need topped of yearly. Newer systems are less prone to leak and don't need topped off every year. More is not better, in your case 26 to 28 ozs would be all I would put in. Your pressure and tempature reads seem ok, but I bet you would get close to the same readings with 27 0zs if you let it settle. Did you weigh the refrigerant in or just put in 3 cans? Remember that cans are only 12 ozs and not a full pound. You should use just shy of 2.5 cans
 
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Old 04-03-2020, 03:58 PM
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If the pressures are right, that's good enough. Its really hard to tell how many cans it takes, as it is almost impossible to actually empty the can......
 



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