*Note* This thread is reserved for HID issue's ONLY. If you don't have a problem or a solution, please don't post.

PLEASE READ!

Chrysler uses Canbus for the headlight system. HID conversion kits are well known for their flicker/strobe and Lampout light problems when used on Canbus equip'd vehicles. These problems vary from one manufacturer to the next.

There are ways to eliminate both of these cases.

They include:
1.) Relay harness (most sellers can provide these with their kits only if you ask). The relay harnesses will eliminate the strobing effect in most cases. I suggest everyone use a relay harness with resistors.

2.) Resistors (Quality 50w..6ohm can be purchased online for pretty cheap.HERE.). These turn off the Lamp out illumination bulb for guys using a relay harness, and store no codes of High Resistance in the computer(06+ guys) which may cause to the circuit to be disabled after a while(no lights at all). Resistors are used on EACH lowbeam wire and EACH Highbeam wire because the driverside and passengerside are on independent circuits(for safety reasons) You need a total of FOUR resistors to get the job done. Resistors get hooked to power feed on one end and get ground on the other.

3.) Capacitors aka Cancellors. These are premade plug-in units that eliminate the flicker/strobing for plug'n'play applications(No relay harness used). I advise against not using the set-up of Plug'n'Pay and cancellor kits due to the massive spike in electrical current on start-up(Inrush current). Capacitors charge up very fast and will draw more current than your switch and circuit is capable of supplying. This rush of charge is actually what tricks the pcm into thinking there is a good bulb drawing current on the other end. This problem will likely be prevelant overtime as it will begin to wear down the contacts of switches and any contact point.

*Fogs are not canbus on any Ram 2008-older.
*You still should use a relay harness with the fogs even though they don't flicker/strobe when installing a pure Plug'n'Play kit. HID technology draws signiciant amount of current upon start up to heat up the bulb. The Inrush current can be up over 15A on some of these kits and cause popped fuses or circuits to be electronically shut down by the tipm. Just because HID lights use Less power(35w) and draw less current at operating temperatures, doesn't mean they are safe for the electrical system which isn't designed for it. The High inrush spikes slowly wear down electrical contact points. This includes the headlight switch, the Instrument cluster, the fuse panl or 06-08+ TIPM($$) module. Put the HID's that shouldn't be directly plugged in along with the capacitors that draw lots of current and you could have one big mess on your hands creating electrical trouble. I'm just sayin.... They'll directly plug in and work like a charm, but for how long? I'd say it depends on the kit and how many times you turn the lights on/off?
Using a Relay harness avoids any hard strains on any of the factory components. Everything functions as it should and componenets will last much longer.


Make this list of items to get:
4-50w 6ohm Resistors (they're all over Ebay)
1-Relay harness (Make sure this comes with your kit)


All Dodge Ram 2002+ have canbus system for their Headlights, therefore, the headlight circuit will need to be corrected. All Dodge Rams 2002-2008 DO NOT have canbus for the foglights.


PLEASE ask all of your questions in here if they have not already been answered. PLEASE use QUOTATIONS for answering anyones questions.

Please read weedahoe's post to follow.

 

Im sure every question about HIDs has been answered at some point....LOL

However, this is what i usually paste for all the guys asking

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Our trucks PCM and FCM read a resistance measurement through the headlight and tail light bulb filaments. When a filament blows the resistance drops and this lets the PCM/FCM know a bulb is out and two things happen here.

1) the modules reduce voltage and
2) the Lamp Out on the dash comes on to notify the driver

So because HIDs are gas filled and not a filament type bulb, when you plug them in the PCM/FCM module does not see "bulbs" and those two things stated above happen.

But because the voltage has been reduced, the HID kits will normally strobe or flicker.

The OEM filament type bulbs are 55w/65w bulbs. One the headlight harness plugs there are three wires. There is the low beam (12v), the high beam (12v) and the common (-).

So my taking 50 watt load resistors and adding them onto the HID harnesses, we can used them to replicate the resistance needed to trick the PCM/FCM into thinking there are bulbs there and that will reciprocate the two issues stated above. In other words, full voltage will be supplied and no Lamp Out light on the dash.

Specifically, the resistors get wired as such. We know there are two ends to each resistor and there are three wires on each headlight. Take one load resistor and splice it to the low beam (12v) wire and the other end to the common (-) wire. The other resistor goes with one end spliced to the high beam (12v) wire and the other to the same common (-) wire.

You can find load resistors on ebay. I have pics of mine in my signature links

 

Here's a question that I can't find a definite answer on:

Will I need anything special to install HID's in my factory foglights on my 2004? They are both out right now (Broken bulbs and housings) and I have no "Bulb Out" light, so I am assuming they aren't run through the canbus system. I've ordered a complete set of HID bulbs, ballasts, and projector housings, and just want to be sure I don't need anything else.

Cheers!

 

No. The Fogs are not canbus operated. Nothing special is needed.

 

So my new HID kits should be in tomorrow and I have a few questions before I get started.

The first being, is it really necessary to pull the whole headlight housing out if you're sticking with the stock housings. I can easily reach in and remove the stock lights without any issues, thought he cable length gives you little room to work with.

If it is, the book seems pretty unclear about pulling them off, it says it's three torx bolts, however the one in the wheel well is a nut and not a torx as best I can tell.

The section question, I was planning on using the side of my house for alignment with a bit of masking tape, but I'm wondering how big of an issue this is, and if it's something I'll have to worry about. I'm also not to sure how to realign them after I put them back on (Assuming I do indeed have to pull them off). I'm guessing it's the nut on the back, but I'm not exactly sure.

This is the first mod to a fairly new (For me) 2008 1500, QC/4X4. Let me know if any other information is needed, thanks!

 

The bubs are direct plug'n'play. They are exactly like your bulbs you currently have. So if your headlights are currentl aligned, thenthere is nothin more you need to do once you install the HID bulbs.
If they aren't aligned as of right now then:
Measure out 30ft from a wall on a perfectly level gound. This point is where your headlights will be at. Aim the concentrated part of your beam pattern 3" below the height of your bulbs as they are measured from the housings to the ground. So, if your bulbs are 38" from the ground while in the housings, the concentrated beam should be at 35" on the wall.

 

I ended up pulling both out (Though it took me a while to figure out there was a clip holding them in too)

The issue I'm having is they seem to be backwards on the beams. The right seems to be on high when it should be on low, and low when it should be high.

Any ideas? Is there a top side to the bulbs? I know that could be a stupid question, but that's almost what it seems like.

I used 6000k for both (Though the headlights seem a little more blue).

Before and after pictures:

 

I have a minor problem with the HID's in my fog lights, when I turn them on I get radio interference, not static so much as acting like a week signal, or like when you pull up to a stop light and the radio signal seems to fade till you move a few feet. The headlights are fine, just the fogs.

 

HIDs are highly known to cause rf frequency interuption, mainly the cheaper kits. Some trucks experience it more than others and some kits are worse than others in the ame exact vehicle. There isn't much you can really do about this other than try a choke such as THIS and run the power and ground wires through. You'll need a couple of them.
You can also wrap the ballasts in aluminum foil a few times. The foil is a hit or miss solution though. The chokes will likely be your best bet.

 

Those you are looking at are $20 a pair shipped. Here are the same ones for $10 a pair shipped

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-6Oh...#ht_3505wt_939

Or ebay item number 230493805103

They make some with AMP plugs on the end that you can plug in but I cant find them


Specifically, the resistors get wired as such. We know there are two ends to each resistor and there are three wires on each headlight. Take one load resistor and splice it to the low beam (12v) wire and the other end to the common (-) wire. The other resistor goes with one end spliced to the high beam (12v) wire and the other to the same common (-) wire.