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3rd Gen Ram Tech 2002-2008 Rams: This section is for TECHNICAL discussions only, that involve the 2002 through 2008 Rams Rams. For any non-tech discussions, please direct your attention to the "General discussion/NON-tech" sub sections.

Got *HID* Problems? Check in here...

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Old 11-08-2010, 12:15 PM
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Exclamation Got *HID* Problems? Check in here...

*Note* This thread is reserved for HID issue's ONLY. If you don't have a problem or a solution, please don't post.

PLEASE READ!

Chrysler uses Canbus for the headlight system. HID conversion kits are well known for their flicker/strobe and Lampout light problems when used on Canbus equip'd vehicles. These problems vary from one manufacturer to the next.

There are ways to eliminate both of these cases.

They include:
1.) Relay harness (most sellers can provide these with their kits only if you ask). The relay harnesses will eliminate the strobing effect in most cases. I suggest everyone use a relay harness with resistors.

2.) Resistors (Quality 50w..6ohm can be purchased online for pretty cheap.HERE.). These turn off the Lamp out illumination bulb for guys using a relay harness, and store no codes of High Resistance in the computer(06+ guys) which may cause to the circuit to be disabled after a while(no lights at all). Resistors are used on EACH lowbeam wire and EACH Highbeam wire because the driverside and passengerside are on independent circuits(for safety reasons) You need a total of FOUR resistors to get the job done. Resistors get hooked to power feed on one end and get ground on the other.

3.) Capacitors aka Cancellors. These are premade plug-in units that eliminate the flicker/strobing for plug'n'play applications(No relay harness used). I advise against not using the set-up of Plug'n'Pay and cancellor kits due to the massive spike in electrical current on start-up(Inrush current). Capacitors charge up very fast and will draw more current than your switch and circuit is capable of supplying. This rush of charge is actually what tricks the pcm into thinking there is a good bulb drawing current on the other end. This problem will likely be prevelant overtime as it will begin to wear down the contacts of switches and any contact point.

*Fogs are not canbus on any Ram 2008-older.
*You still should use a relay harness with the fogs even though they don't flicker/strobe when installing a pure Plug'n'Play kit. HID technology draws signiciant amount of current upon start up to heat up the bulb. The Inrush current can be up over 15A on some of these kits and cause popped fuses or circuits to be electronically shut down by the tipm. Just because HID lights use Less power(35w) and draw less current at operating temperatures, doesn't mean they are safe for the electrical system which isn't designed for it. The High inrush spikes slowly wear down electrical contact points. This includes the headlight switch, the Instrument cluster, the fuse panl or 06-08+ TIPM($$) module. Put the HID's that shouldn't be directly plugged in along with the capacitors that draw lots of current and you could have one big mess on your hands creating electrical trouble. I'm just sayin.... They'll directly plug in and work like a charm, but for how long? I'd say it depends on the kit and how many times you turn the lights on/off?
Using a Relay harness avoids any hard strains on any of the factory components. Everything functions as it should and componenets will last much longer.


Make this list of items to get:
4-50w 6ohm Resistors (they're all over Ebay)
1-Relay harness (Make sure this comes with your kit)


All Dodge Ram 2002+ have canbus system for their Headlights, therefore, the headlight circuit will need to be corrected. All Dodge Rams 2002-2008 DO NOT have canbus for the foglights.


PLEASE ask all of your questions in here if they have not already been answered. PLEASE use QUOTATIONS for answering anyones questions.

Please read weedahoe's post to follow.
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Last edited by dirtydog; 12-20-2013 at 09:21 PM.. Reason: links
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  #2  
Old 11-08-2010, 12:39 PM
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Im sure every question about HIDs has been answered at some point....LOL

However, this is what i usually paste for all the guys asking

------------------------------------------------
Our trucks PCM and FCM read a resistance measurement through the headlight and tail light bulb filaments. When a filament blows the resistance drops and this lets the PCM/FCM know a bulb is out and two things happen here.

1) the modules reduce voltage and
2) the Lamp Out on the dash comes on to notify the driver

So because HIDs are gas filled and not a filament type bulb, when you plug them in the PCM/FCM module does not see "bulbs" and those two things stated above happen.

But because the voltage has been reduced, the HID kits will normally strobe or flicker.

The OEM filament type bulbs are 55w/65w bulbs. One the headlight harness plugs there are three wires. There is the low beam (12v), the high beam (12v) and the common (-).

So my taking 50 watt load resistors and adding them onto the HID harnesses, we can used them to replicate the resistance needed to trick the PCM/FCM into thinking there are bulbs there and that will reciprocate the two issues stated above. In other words, full voltage will be supplied and no Lamp Out light on the dash.

Specifically, the resistors get wired as such. We know there are two ends to each resistor and there are three wires on each headlight. Take one load resistor and splice it to the low beam (12v) wire and the other end to the common (-) wire. The other resistor goes with one end spliced to the high beam (12v) wire and the other to the same common (-) wire.

You can find load resistors on ebay. I have pics of mine in my signature links
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Old 11-08-2010, 12:59 PM
Dawizman Dawizman is offline
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Here's a question that I can't find a definite answer on:

Will I need anything special to install HID's in my factory foglights on my 2004? They are both out right now (Broken bulbs and housings) and I have no "Bulb Out" light, so I am assuming they aren't run through the canbus system. I've ordered a complete set of HID bulbs, ballasts, and projector housings, and just want to be sure I don't need anything else.

Cheers!
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Old 11-08-2010, 02:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dawizman View Post
Here's a question that I can't find a definite answer on:

Will I need anything special to install HID's in my factory foglights on my 2004? They are both out right now (Broken bulbs and housings) and I have no "Bulb Out" light, so I am assuming they aren't run through the canbus system. I've ordered a complete set of HID bulbs, ballasts, and projector housings, and just want to be sure I don't need anything else.

Cheers!
No. The Fogs are not canbus operated. Nothing special is needed.
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Old 11-14-2010, 04:30 PM
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So my new HID kits should be in tomorrow and I have a few questions before I get started.

The first being, is it really necessary to pull the whole headlight housing out if you're sticking with the stock housings. I can easily reach in and remove the stock lights without any issues, thought he cable length gives you little room to work with.

If it is, the book seems pretty unclear about pulling them off, it says it's three torx bolts, however the one in the wheel well is a nut and not a torx as best I can tell.

The section question, I was planning on using the side of my house for alignment with a bit of masking tape, but I'm wondering how big of an issue this is, and if it's something I'll have to worry about. I'm also not to sure how to realign them after I put them back on (Assuming I do indeed have to pull them off). I'm guessing it's the nut on the back, but I'm not exactly sure.

This is the first mod to a fairly new (For me) 2008 1500, QC/4X4. Let me know if any other information is needed, thanks!
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Old 11-14-2010, 09:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deathrend View Post

The first being, is it really necessary to pull the whole headlight housing out if you're sticking with the stock housings.

The section question, I was planning on using the side of my house for alignment with a bit of masking tape, but I'm wondering how big of an issue this is,...
The bubs are direct plug'n'play. They are exactly like your bulbs you currently have. So if your headlights are currentl aligned, thenthere is nothin more you need to do once you install the HID bulbs.
If they aren't aligned as of right now then:
Measure out 30ft from a wall on a perfectly level gound. This point is where your headlights will be at. Aim the concentrated part of your beam pattern 3" below the height of your bulbs as they are measured from the housings to the ground. So, if your bulbs are 38" from the ground while in the housings, the concentrated beam should be at 35" on the wall.
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Old 11-16-2010, 12:20 AM
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Originally Posted by weedahoe View Post
@ Deathrend - you do not need to pull the headlight assemblies out of the truck to put in the bulbs. I used to put mine in from going under the truck.
I ended up pulling both out (Though it took me a while to figure out there was a clip holding them in too)

The issue I'm having is they seem to be backwards on the beams. The right seems to be on high when it should be on low, and low when it should be high.

Any ideas? Is there a top side to the bulbs? I know that could be a stupid question, but that's almost what it seems like.

I used 6000k for both (Though the headlights seem a little more blue).

Before and after pictures:

Click the image to open in full size.

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Old 11-17-2010, 12:57 PM
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I have a minor problem with the HID's in my fog lights, when I turn them on I get radio interference, not static so much as acting like a week signal, or like when you pull up to a stop light and the radio signal seems to fade till you move a few feet. The headlights are fine, just the fogs.
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Old 11-17-2010, 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Rich 2500 View Post
I have a minor problem with the HID's in my fog lights, when I turn them on I get radio interference, not static so much as acting like a week signal, or like when you pull up to a stop light and the radio signal seems to fade till you move a few feet. The headlights are fine, just the fogs.
HIDs are highly known to cause rf frequency interuption, mainly the cheaper kits. Some trucks experience it more than others and some kits are worse than others in the ame exact vehicle. There isn't much you can really do about this other than try a choke such as THIS and run the power and ground wires through. You'll need a couple of them.
You can also wrap the ballasts in aluminum foil a few times. The foil is a hit or miss solution though. The chokes will likely be your best bet.
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Old 11-19-2010, 06:49 AM
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Those you are looking at are $20 a pair shipped. Here are the same ones for $10 a pair shipped

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-6Oh...#ht_3505wt_939

Or ebay item number 230493805103

They make some with AMP plugs on the end that you can plug in but I cant find them


Specifically, the resistors get wired as such. We know there are two ends to each resistor and there are three wires on each headlight. Take one load resistor and splice it to the low beam (12v) wire and the other end to the common (-) wire. The other resistor goes with one end spliced to the high beam (12v) wire and the other to the same common (-) wire.
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Old 11-19-2010, 10:46 AM
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If you have HID lows and HID highs you need two per side (total of 4) because you have HID lo/high. If you have HID low and Halogen high then you only need one per side (total of 2)
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Old 11-21-2010, 08:12 PM
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I have a question.. I have a 2006 dodge ram and have had my HIDs in for about 4 months now. i used the resistor and relay harness and it worked fine but it only used one plug from the headlights so it was getting all of its power source from the driver side whiel the passenger side was unhooked. not even a bulb in it. but i got no headlight out or anything on the dash. It is a Bi- Xenon kit for high and low. but a week ago i turned the highs on and it only switched one headlight so i checked the relay and thought it was the problem so i went to put my stock bulbs back in until i got a new relay but found out no power went to the passenger side bulb nor would the high beams work it would just shut off when i switched to highs and only driver side worked on low... there is nothing still on the dash for lamp out or anything... any ideas???
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Old 11-21-2010, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Rammed06 View Post
I have a question.. I have a 2006 dodge ram and have had my HIDs in for about 4 months now. i used the resistor and relay harness and it worked fine but it only used one plug from the headlights so it was getting all of its power source from the driver side whiel the passenger side was unhooked. not even a bulb in it. but i got no headlight out or anything on the dash. It is a Bi- Xenon kit for high and low. but a week ago i turned the highs on and it only switched one headlight so i checked the relay and thought it was the problem so i went to put my stock bulbs back in until i got a new relay but found out no power went to the passenger side bulb nor would the high beams work it would just shut off when i switched to highs and only driver side worked on low... there is nothing still on the dash for lamp out or anything... any ideas???
On your 2006 which has a TIPM(totally integrated power module...fancy computerized relay box in front of the battery) that controls all of the circuits..If you have no current draw and the TIPM reads it as being low or zero so many times(250x's), it will turn power to that circuit off for protection for good. You will need to add a resistor to the pass side and likely unhook the battery and touch the terminals together to reset the ecu as it currently has Active codes. You wont have power to that circuit unless you make those Active codes turn inactive.

If addding he resistors doesn't help after that, you will need to go to the dealer and have them reset the TIPM.

I have my truck exactly as you stated and had no codes shown, but the Starscan tool from the dealer showed Active codes on the pass side circuit.
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Old 12-10-2010, 06:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FixOrRepairDaily7638 View Post
Why not just run a set of 55W HID's and not worry about the flicker?
Because you have to understand how HIDs/halogens and the PCM work. The reason the Lamp Out comes on when a bulb is bad is because the filament in the bulbs actually comes loose or breaks. When that happens the trucks PCM can no longer read that circuit and knows something is wrong with the bulb so it notifies you via the dash lights and reduces voltage.

HIDs are filled with gas and salts and when electrified with high voltage, create a plasma light. But there is no filament so the truck cannot detect the bulb. Using a bulb that has the light output of 35w v/s 55w isnt going to make a difference as there is still no filament inside the HID bulb.

Bottom line overall, some people can get away with running HIDs with no resistors or caps just like some people can do it with interior LEDs. But not everyone can and some of those who do get away with it find issues coming back later down the road.

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Old 12-11-2010, 08:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Atwiss View Post
so i bought the resisters but which wires are which you said i have it wired correctly and i understand you have to splice the low to the common and the high to the same common wire but which is which. the plug has a triangle appearance it looks kind of like a wall outlet two straight across from each and then the 3rd one that would be the ground on the wall outlet and how have people spliced it just a quick splice or strip a section of wire and solder it... etc
Well, don't you have the oem connectors pligged into your HID kit? So you can't use the pins themselves. Just use taps on the wres. White/blue and white/green are low and high. Atleast on my '08 they are.
You can solder it if you'd like and tape it up after. That would be a better solution.
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Old 12-13-2010, 11:31 AM
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determining which wire is high and low really will not matter as you will have one resistor on each one anyway. But if you specifically want to know then you can download the service manual in my links below and look at the electrical wiring diagrams for the headlights.
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Old 12-21-2010, 06:48 AM
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What reverse polarity? What exactly are you referencing?

You can go to ebay and buy just a single 9007 (or whatever plug style you need) and wire yours like this. Make sure you get the right male or female plug though

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 12-23-2010, 09:10 AM
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Installed the HID's lastnight.......heres my deal. They work fine but after i turn them off and get out of the truck and then a few minutes later go to open the door, the lights fire real quick almost like a build up of energy. Is that normal. Don't really bother me just wondering.
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Old 12-23-2010, 09:36 AM
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it is normal. It is the trucks PCM sending out pulse signals to individual circuits to wake them up out of sleep mode
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Old 12-27-2010, 09:48 PM
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hate to hear your having problems man, good luck on a fix.



Weed......my kits came from HID Extra......is it also normal for the high beams to suck? They are the same light on high as my old factory bulbs and as wierd as it may seem........they are no where near as bright as my low beam hids. Hope that makes sense
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