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Need help for 2003 Dodge Ram 1500 rough idle issue

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  #1  
Old 08-20-2011, 04:42 PM
bwstewart bwstewart is offline
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Angry Need help for 2003 Dodge Ram 1500 rough idle issue

Just joined after searching threads for my issue. I'm looking for help with a 2003 Dodge Ram 1500 quad cab 4x4 rough idle issue with 5.7 hemi.

Truck rolled 200,000 miles last weekend during a college move-in trip from OH to SC and back. Made the trip down no problems - stopped after 6 hrs and finished 2nd day in 4.5 hrs. Drove straight back 10.5 hours last Sunday.

We were about 1.5 hrs from home when truck starting choking and sputtering. Really rough idle - engine light came on. We were 84 miles from home and I was concerned if we stopped for the night it might never go in the morning. We continued on home, arriving after 1 am and the truck DIED in the driveway.

That was last Sunday, since then I have change all 16 spark plugs. Truck still has very rough idle. Max rpm is 3500-3600 with foot fully on the gas. Won't go past 3600. Truck dies out completely whenever I stop reving it.

After reading various threads - I'm seeing possibly catalytic converter issue, possible 02 sensors, etc. etc. etc. I'm thinking it's most likely the catalytic converter which has never been changed - I'm the original owner.

Cat from dealer is $1100 and has to be ordered. Auto parts stores appear to only have 2WD Cat. Summit Racing said there doesn't appear be a magnaflow cat for 4WD.

Since I don't know what the problem is, I thought I'd ask your advice before I start more money and time at it!!

What are your thoughts. What direction would you go to next?
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Last edited by bwstewart; 08-20-2011 at 09:57 PM..
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  #2  
Old 08-21-2011, 09:56 AM
bwstewart bwstewart is offline
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Question UPDATE: Removed O2 sensor

Found that I had the code P0032 so I bought the 02 sensor. Managed to remove the O2 sensor in front of the CAT late last night. I quit around 11pm and am waiting til 10am to give neighbors a quiet morning, before starting the beast. I'm expecting it to be pretty loud.

Hoping to see some improvement after installing the new O2 sensor. Would love to avoid replacing the CAT at $1100 plus but still pass e-check which I'll have in March.

Surely there is some way to avoid that dealer price. Has anyone with the 5.7 4x4 replaced their CAT? What did you replace with?

Also, I've had wife reading more threads. Found info on rev limiter and "limp mode". I didn't know about either of those. Am I correct in assuming the rev limiter is would be why I can't go past 3600 RPM? I'm not sure if I'm in "limp mode" or not, but the description sure fits!!! How do I know?
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Old 08-21-2011, 10:58 AM
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2003, wont idle, shakes and sputters, have to hold gas to keep rpms high to keep it alive all sound like a broken valve spring
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Old 08-21-2011, 11:22 AM
bwstewart bwstewart is offline
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Default No change after new O2 sensor install

New O2 sensor installed. No change other than the P0032 code is gone.

Cough, spit, sputter, dies! [IMG]http://www.*********.com/forums/images/smilies/mad.gif[/IMG] Frustrated!

Should I post this somewhere else?
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Old 08-21-2011, 11:58 AM
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did you read my post?

either do a compression check or pull the valve covers and check for a broken valve spring
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Old 08-21-2011, 12:11 PM
IndyRamMan IndyRamMan is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by weedahoe View Post
2003, wont idle, shakes and sputters, have to hold gas to keep rpms high to keep it alive all sound like a broken valve spring
Do hemi's have dual valve springs?
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Old 08-21-2011, 12:12 PM
dkeller59er dkeller59er is offline
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Ive had this issue before, but on my o4, was a broken valve spring. after it was replaced ran like a charm. Deffinetly would check into it being a valve spring problem. Symptoms youve had are exactly the same as mine.
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Old 08-21-2011, 12:13 PM
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Dual as in one for the intake valve and one for the exhaust valve? Yes.

And I have a complete set of Miller tools for sale which are needed to pull and change valve springs if you find that to be the problem.
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Old 08-21-2011, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by weedahoe View Post
Dual as in one for the intake valve and one for the exhaust valve? Yes.

And I have a complete set of Miller tools for sale which are needed to pull and change valve springs if you find that to be the problem.
dual as in a retainer spring within the primary spring
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Old 08-21-2011, 12:20 PM
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Quote:
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dual as in a retainer spring within the primary spring
Nope.
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Old 08-21-2011, 12:23 PM
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Nope.
Then how are you guys having broken springs without major damage?
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Old 08-21-2011, 12:26 PM
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Then how are you guys having broken springs without major damage?
Some guys get lucky and the valve doesn't drop because the valve breaks and collapses and the retainer stays on top holding the valve in place but cracked open which is why you will have no compression and it won't idle.

Some guys are not so lucky and it does drop the valve and destroy the engine.
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Old 08-21-2011, 12:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by weedahoe View Post
Some guys get lucky and the valve doesn't drop because the valve breaks and collapses and the retainer stays on top holding the valve in place but cracked open which is why you will have no compression and it won't idle.

Some guys are not so lucky and it does drop the valve and destroy the engine.
53021580AE: have any specs on the spring?
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Old 08-21-2011, 12:37 PM
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We replace them with 6.1 pushrods and 16 6.1 exhaust springs

http://www.hensonmotorsports.com/mer...tem.php?id=663

http://www.hensonmotorsports.com/mer...tem.php?id=784
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Old 08-21-2011, 12:39 PM
IndyRamMan IndyRamMan is offline
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Are the factory 5.7 springs the behive style as well?

Have any specs on both the 5.7 and 6.1 sprigns?
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Old 08-21-2011, 12:42 PM
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Don't have specs offhand. There are various threads showing both springs side by side. What specs are you wanting btw? Height? Seat pressure? Ect?
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Old 08-21-2011, 12:45 PM
bwstewart bwstewart is offline
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Just got your messages. Thanks, but unfortunately I just got all of it back together #@!#!! Don't think I even have the equipment to check even if I tore it all back apart.

Sounds like a trip to the dealer garage. I'm guessing that will be a $1000 to $2000. Is it worth investing at 200,000 miles?

There is no other way to check other than getting everything back apart?
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Old 08-21-2011, 12:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by weedahoe View Post
Don't have specs offhand. There are various threads showing both springs side by side. What specs are you wanting btw? Height? Seat pressure? Ect?
yea... height, inst. height, rate, dia
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Old 08-21-2011, 12:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bwstewart View Post
Just got your messages. Thanks, but unfortunately I just got all of it back together #@!#!! Don't think I even have the equipment to check even if I tore it all back apart.

Sounds like a trip to the dealer garage. I'm guessing that will be a $1000 to $2000. Is it worth investing at 200,000 miles?

There is no other way to check other than getting everything back apart?
Well first of all, did you find the problem? If it is the valve springs then use those two links I posted above and order both springs and push rods. That's only 100 in parts. You don't need any special tools other that those to change the springs and like I said, I have a set for sell that i will sell pretty cheap.

Now if you found and have other issues please let us know.
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Old 08-21-2011, 12:52 PM
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Quote:
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yea... height, inst. height, rate, dia
Sorry. I do not. Perhaps you can call Art or Louis at Hensons at those links above and ask.
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Old 08-21-2011, 12:52 PM
 
 
 
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