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Transfer Case Shift Arm fell off? If so, this might help you.

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  #21  
Old 01-20-2014, 07:47 PM
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Idk why I can't access the orginal pics, but can someone send them to me mdean4421@gmail.com It says I dont have access to them?
 
  #22  
Old 06-19-2014, 10:26 PM
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Default Thanks!

I noticed my transfer-case linkage was wonky after I did a transmission flush. Thankfully, I found your immensely helpful thread as I searched the site for a possible solution to my boggle. I'm looking forward to giving the repair a go doing the DIY approach.

Thanks again!
 
  #23  
Old 06-20-2014, 11:47 PM
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Default DIY parts purchased

I bought my parts this evening from our local Lowes. Your parts list with item numbers and pricing was spot-on accurate. Much to my surprise, the prices remained constant several years after your original post.

My cost, after store CC discount, came to $11.04 with MD 6% sales tax.

Side-note:
Presuming the stores share similar floor-plans. The turnbuckle may be found in aisle 12 closest to checkout. The open bin is low, just above the floor
 
  #24  
Old 06-22-2014, 03:01 PM
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Default Count mine as another successful install

I installed the assembly as originally described. I thought about adding jam-nuts, but discounted the idea. I don't see the turnbuckle "walking" because it seems to operate only in one plane. I'll add some lock-tite later if I notice movement.

My original guess on shifter location and turnbuckle length was spot on, first swing! Thanks to this mod, I think my transfer-case shifting is better than EOM stock. There's a more positive feel in the shifts without the slop likely introduced by the plasti-rubber bushings of the stock bits.

A couple other suggestions to add to an already great approach.

-- Before leaving the hardware store: take both 1/2 x 5/8 x 1 steel spacers and dry fit them to both ends of the turnbuckle. Reject turnbuckles where the spacers won't slide through.

-- Screw the turnbuckle ends in and out of the turnbuckle body. Reject turnbuckles that do not operate smoothly.

-- Apply white lithium grease to the contact parts of the assembly for smoother operation.

https://app.box.com/s/h4epfduiope0wthz5fx0
 
  #25  
Old 07-16-2014, 05:13 AM
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Great write up and better than stock! Saved me a trip to the dealer
 
  #26  
Old 09-01-2014, 11:19 PM
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Default nice write up....

i just did this... it feels better than our brand new 5500's at work... when i did mine they didnt have the 10" turnbuckle so i bought the 16" and it actually fits perfect with little to no adjustment... if i new how to attach a pic of mine i would.... hahaha... ne ways thank u for an awesome fix....
 
  #27  
Old 12-31-2015, 10:39 AM
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Default Thanks for the help!

Great post, very helpful. My linkage was lost sometime in the past few months during my cross-state move, so I followed your post exactly and had it repaired in no time. The Lowe's part numbers were very helpful, and making the repair itself took all of 10 minutes, even with ice cold hands (my gloves are still in a box somewhere in the garage....).

I greatly appreciate you taking the time to make this post.
 
  #28  
Old 01-01-2016, 09:21 PM
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Funny, Wednesday when I got in the truck, I noticed that the shifter arm was floppy. Looked underneath after work and the linkage was totally missing. I might give this a shot.
 
  #29  
Old 03-29-2016, 12:03 AM
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Just did this with my 06 CCLB G56. One turnbuckle didn't reach so I added a short length of 3/8" threaded rod (Lowes #880993) along with a 3/8" lock washer in between another turnbuckle to make it fit. I just matched the length of the old rod and it fit perfect. Turned out well and I'm happy with it. Wanted to share my experience to pay it forward. Thanks for posting this idea.




 

Last edited by Jjwill; 03-29-2016 at 12:18 AM.
  #30  
Old 03-29-2016, 01:48 AM
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Pretty cool, but what vomited all over your underside?
 


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