That was easy:

http://www.thermotec.com/products/14...at-shield.html

I have used their products before, great quality. Found a few places on the net that have the kit for about $50.00. It says will fit tubes up to 3.5" Considering maybe wrapping the tube beforehand with fiberglass pipe insulation and then wrapping it with the above kit.

Another brand and style:

http://www.amazon.com/HeatShield-274...=pd_sbs_auto_2

 

I'm sure I see lower temps than most, since I cut the front out of my fake scoop and a hole in the hood.

I got to get my lazy **** out though and dress it up, put some molding around the hole so it looks "factory" with the hood up. I also need to re-route my CAI from the passenger wall to under the scoop. I dunno what benefit I'll get though since I'll have to lose the shield for the CAI when I do it. But that's where it's going because I have had a passenger side battery tray been in my garage for over a year now...

 

BFI routed and positioned where the A/C condenser use to be.

 

The insulation is key and I already purchased it . I almost have the whole thing built. I made an airtight enclosure for my cone filter with 3" flex aluminum tubing (not the cheaper plastic stuff with the metal rings in it) mounted with flanges coming out of both ends of the enclosure. One end of course goes to the TB and tomorrow I will mount a nipple for the breather from the crankcase and the hole for the IAT.

I want to get everything painted before I get the insulation on. The whole setup will have a thermal resistance of R6, give or take. The insulation itself is approx 1/8" thick and I will double wrap it along the whole setup.

The Intake side will mount beside the passenger headlight and I have a great "Scoop" idea and will be incorporating that also. The piping is 3" the whole way through and with the insulation, Im hoping to see no more than 20 degrees while idling and 5 while highway driving, but I am an optimist. Unfortunately I do not have any way to verify the IAT temp, yet. Unless I can borrow a monitor or flashpaq.

I also fabbed a bracket to secure the enclosure to my second battery tray. I am being cautious with space because the 2nd battery tray has a battery in it. If it didnt I would have all the room in the world. But this will mount to the tray and sit above the A/C line that runs across the engine.

There may be 1 -4 1/8" holes in the bottom of the enclosure to deal with any water that may find itself into the enclosure. The way it sits, I dont think the water will be able to hit the filter, due to the filter location and enclosure. I havent decided fully on the weep holes yet, but I think they will be a good idea. Especially since the whole setup will be waterproof from the intake to the TB, except the opening of course.

Hammer - I would freaking effing frunkin love to have that hood. I cant find one in a yard and I dont want to spend 500 + paint. Did yours come with the truck?

 

Sh*t, I got like $150 in it. Stock hood, got a boo-boo when a pine limb fell on it. Couldn't pop the whole dent out perfectly so I bought a stick on scoop online - color matched already for like $139 as a "band aid". Cut out the front of it and did a little "gutta mesh" cover for the hole and cut a slot in the hood.



I'll finish it one of these days...

 

Thats awesome - I must say on on behalf of everyone here on the forum. Thank you for your 22000 posts. I am sure you have dug many a newbies out of a hole.

Is your crossmember painted also. Lazy **** my ****. Your Truck is nice. Ill get better pics of mine on soon. I was going to do them yesterday until my discussion with nv290 made me wanna do some fabrication and I got yelled at by the wife. Cuddle time my ***, fabrication time.

 

It does pull cold air from the side of the fender, but the air box "snout" is still in the engine compartment. So it's better then a huge exposed air filter like on most of the CAI kits, but still not pulling air from ONLY outside the Engine Compartment.

Correct. You will get much better flow AND much warmer air.

On a stock truck? No. On a truck with only a high flow exhaust? Not really. With headers and a High Flow Throttle Body? Yes.

Yes, you would need to buy the MIT from Airaid. The Modular Intake Tube. That is what i have with my stock airbox but it works on all their CAI kits as well.

 

Slakker, check out this new found data:

Outside air temp showing on Interceptor last night: 48 Degrees.

IAT showing on Interceptor after sitting in my truck idling for 15 minutes: 104 Degrees!

With no airflow in the engine compartment, temps start rising pretty high. I am going to get that insulation kit and see if i can drop those numbers.

 

Keep one thing in mind: Lower intake temps at the IAT means a richer mix and higher temps means a leaner mix. Colder air is more dense and the PCM will dump more fuel to it at the rail.

For the purpose of our discussion, I'm going to refer to ALL common CAIs as a WAI (warm air intake) and refer to what we have already determined is a TRUE CAI as a CAI in this thread.

In general a WAI will produce slightly less performance and slightly better fuel economy while a CAI will produce slightly more performance while slightly losing fuel economy.

Now I'm in NO WAY saying not to insulate or use any other method to introduce cooler air at the IAT - but you mentioned in another thread that you fear you may be operating at open loop - so you may want to fix THAT ISSUE before lowering intake temps too much - or you may compound that first issue...

 

All upgrades are on hold untill i solve the CEL issue. I will not be adding the insulation untill my truck is operating normally.

I am very curious to see how well it works. Since i already have a well established baseline showing 20 degrees hotter then the Ambient air temp.

For $59.00, i am picking one of these up too:

http://www.frozenboost.com/product_i...roducts_id=800

That price includes the sender. The reason why i am adding this is to have a way to double check the accuracy of the factory sensor. And i see no reason why i cannot buy a second sender and then install a switch so i can check temps from two locations. Ideally ill put one sender in roughly the same location as the stock one (but not in it's air stream) and ill put the second sender right near the air box inlet. This way i can see the actual difference in temps.