Brake Caliper Hanging Up -

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Brake Caliper Hanging Up

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Old 03-30-2012, 04:39 PM
jasonprox700 jasonprox700 is offline
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Vehicle: 2004 Dodge Ram Quad Cab 4x4 w/Hemi
Location: Black River Falls, Wisconsin
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Default Brake Caliper Hanging Up

So one of my front brake calipers is hanging up on me. I noticed it at the end of the winter when I'd leave work (I work nights). It would release after about a mile, but until that the RPMS would be at around 2,500 doing 55mph.

So anyway, I'm replacing my front driver's side hub assembly as that went out on me last night right before I got home. I will be using my dad's garage because he has more and better tools since he does a lot of work on his semi. I figured tomorrow we can determine which one is hanging up.

So here's my question. Which brand of replacement caliper should I purchase? Who has the best prices? And should I go ahead and replace both sides at the same time so that I "shouldn't" have to worry about this down the road?

BTW, my truck is a 2004 Ram 1500 Quad Cab, 4x4, 5.7 Hemi, w/Hemi Sport package and 93,000 miles.
2004 Ram Quad Cab Hemi Sport Package
5.7 Hemi
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Old 03-30-2012, 07:41 PM
Caseys-dodge Caseys-dodge is offline
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Vehicle: 02 1500 QC SLT 4x4
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 423

I bought a duralast caliper from AutoZone about 18 months ago for my front passenger because one of the pistons was hung up. I only replaced that one side and the new one is holding up just fine, the brake pads have been wearing very evenly.
2002 Dodge Ram 1500 5.9L SLT Quad Cab 4x4
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Old 03-30-2012, 08:24 PM
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dirtydog dirtydog is offline
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Calipers freezing up are signs of bad brake fluid. Fluid that has been absorbing moisture and has likely been overheated. The moisture in the brake fluid causes corrosion on the sleeves. Brake fluid is hygroscopic(moisture absorbing) so even just dew point and condensation allows it to absorb moisture on a closed system. This is why brake flushes are reccomended every 30-60kmi.
I would buy a large bottle of Valvoline Synthetic DOT4 brake fluid and start flushing your lines. A one-man bleeder works better than anything I've tried(including a buddy to help) as you dont have to rely on timing things correctly.
Bleed the pass back corner until it becomes clean. Then do the driver back wheel. Then pass wheel, then driver and go back around once more to make sure all air is out. Dont worry about the ABS module as that only draws fluid and air if those lines are broken or if you run your reseviour too low. Keep it topped off and you'll be fine.

One more thing. While your pumping the pedal, dont let it go to the floor. That is too far past the normal operation and causes the internal plunger on the master cylinder which may have rust on the sleeve to contact the rubber seals. Only pump the pedal halfway-3/4 at most.
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