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Hub assembly.. Take axle out?

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Old 06-26-2013, 07:47 PM
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Default Hub assembly.. Take axle out?

So just flipping through my Haynes manual as I'm eplacing the ball joints, u joints, brakes and hub assemblies this weekend... It said when replacing the hubs you have to remove the axle.... Why? Not a huge deal, but seems odd to me. It's an 06 ram... I've replaced them in a 2000 Durango and didn't pull the axle out, just popped the new on on and walked away, never had a problem... So do I need to or no?
 
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Old 06-26-2013, 08:29 PM
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you need to remove the axle nut to remove the hub assembly, but as long as you can remove the bolts that retain the hub, then there is no reason why you would need to remove the entire axle.
 
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Old 06-26-2013, 09:45 PM
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In my Haynes it says take it out, so do the YouTube videos I've seen... So what's the point? Is it to just get to the bolts in the back of the hub?
 
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Old 06-26-2013, 11:24 PM
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Here is from the Dodge Service Manual:
HUB / BEARING
REMOVAL
HUB/BEARING - 4X4
1. Raise and support the vehicle.
2. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
3. Remove the brake caliper and rotor (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL/ROTORS - REMOVAL).
4. Remove the ABS wheel speed sensor if equipped, (Refer to 5 - BRAKES/ELECTRICAL/FRONT WHEEL SPEED
SENSOR - REMOVAL).
5. Remove the halfshaft nut.
NOTE: Do not strike the knuckle with a hammer to remove the tie rod end or the ball joint. Damage to the
steering knuckle will occur.
6. Remove the tie rod end nut and separate the tie rod from the knuckle using special tool 8677.
7. Remove the upper ball joint nut and separate the upper ball joint from the knuckle using special tool 8677.
8. Pull down on the steering knuckle to separate the
halfshaft (2) from the hub/bearing.
9. Remove the three hub/bearing mounting bolts (1)
from the steering knuckle.
10. Slide the hub/bearing out of the steering knuckle.
11. Remove the brake dust shield.
 
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Old 06-27-2013, 04:08 AM
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So that says I don't have to take the shaft out.. just seperate them.. usually I take a chisel and a hammer and work my way around the hub assembly till it pops off, then bolt the new one on and put the axle nut back on... Will that work? Not a huge deal to remove the shaft, just if I don't need to its a step less I have to do
 
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Old 06-27-2013, 11:33 AM
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I havent done one where ive needed to remove the axle, and ive done quite a few. I think they say that because they all want you to torque the bolts to spec, and you cant get a torque wrench in there with the axle in place. But if you have wobble sockets, you can get the bolts off and on without ever touching the axle, and without removing the ball joint or tie rod. On rusty situations, a good smack of a hammer from behind, or in severe cases an air hammer with a chisel will separate the hub from the knuckle.
 
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Old 06-27-2013, 05:19 PM
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Ok so moving the axle is for clearance then? Gotcha. I always put a smear of anti size around the edge of the mounting flange for the hub... Makes them MUCH easier to get off in the future if needed
 
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Old 06-27-2013, 08:02 PM
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I keep running through the process in my head and i cant think of any other reason than clearance. Yes, anti seize is a glorious product, just dont put it on spark plugs.
 
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Old 06-29-2013, 10:26 PM
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I just finished replacing my upper control arms, lower ball joints and hub on my 06.
The CV axle pretty much completely covers the heads of the 3 bolts that secure the hub. There would be no way to get to the bolts with the axle in place. (Even with swivel sockets).
 



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