Hey all, Front end rebuild is coming right along on my 2004 Dodge RAM 2500. Got the driver's side done yesterday and now moving to the other side today (ball joints etc).

Now, I am going to actually be putting on the new caliper for the side I finished yesterday and will actually be replacing all 4 calipers on the truck (I know, I know, insane, but, yes I am going to do this - this truck has had too many pull issues / whatever else - it is getting a brake overhaul).

So! I am wondering what the proper strategy is going to be here for this..? I am going to be flushing the break fluid as well when it all is done. All I have is a basic break bleeder kit (basically a cup with a tube ) and a partner and my 4 new calipers that will be going on as I finish each side's other projects...

So, my strategy at this point is at each new caliper as I get them finished I will basically remove the hose clamp I have put on the brake line from the original caliper removal and crack the bleeder on the new caliper that will be put on and let the caliper gravity bleed. However, I also am thinking about having my partner pump the breaks a couple times then hold, then crack the bleeder and repeat... I have been reading that having that bleeder opened when the brakes aren't depressed is not great (but then again I will be flushing / bleeding the whole system at the end when all four calipers are on so it may not matter?)

So, basically then my two questions are these:

1.) What to do after each caliper is changed out on a quick bleed procedure?
2.) How to then go about the whole brake fluid flushing process once all four new calipers are on?? - I have seen online to start at the rear passenger wheel, then rear driver's side, then front passenger side, then front driver side. I hope this is the sequence in this truck.
Also, the whole time at each side I will have my partner pump the brakes, hold, crack the bleeder, close the bleeder, and then repeat until I see no air and new fluid coming out...

I would like to hear what all of you would do in this instance where the calipers are getting replaced as I get to each wheel in my overall project - and then an eventual brake fluid flush..

I would like to think my strategy will be at least workable but I am curious as to what you all suggest.

Thanks for any replies any of you can give me!

 

Get a one man bleeder. It's easier than dealing with the communications to a helper. All you do is put the line over, stick the magnet/fill tube higher than the bleeed screw and crack the screw open. Now you can pump the pedal as many times as you'd like(or until full) without worrying about closing it back up. You need to close the bleeder screw everytime you unhook the bleeder tube.
**I would suggest NOT pumping pedal to the floor. Only pump 60-75% of the way. The cylinder inside the master cylinder gets a coating of rust that never sees the sleeve. When you push the pedal to the floor when bleeding , it runs that rust bevel through the seals because the pedal is not used to being pushed that far.


Bleed sequence:
Pass rear, driver rear, Pass front, Driver front.

I would bleed each until clear fluid is present. Then once you do all 4 corners....Go back around for a 2nd time.

Before you start, I would suck as much out of the reservoir and pour in new DOT4 before you start anything! It will be a good head start on the flush.

 

In short, it's easier to do each caliper as you replace them. Buy a simple line clamp(http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece...set-65116.html) so that you don't let a lot of air in the line while you change the caliper. You can pre-fill the caliper a bit before you put it on the truck. Then bleed the air out. At this time, you could pump it until you get clean fluid and call it done. A turkey baster works great for sucking the dirty fluid out of the master reservoir. Top it off with clean fluid, and you can do your flush and save yourself a step.

Old school says to start with the wheel furthest from the reservoir and work your way to it. I've heard from lots of people, and some prefer to do it the opposite. Either way it isn't really going to hurt. If you replaced the master, you'd have a lot of air to chase out. If you use a clamp, you will get a very minimum amount of air in the line.

Keep in mind, unless you own a specific scan tool, you can't get the fluid out of the ABS unit. If a 100% flush is your goal, then you pretty much have to take it to a dealer to do. Most people just do the best they can in the driveway and don't worry about the ABS.

 

ABS??..lol I've NEVER been able to trigger my ABS. All my other vehicles I pull the fuse because I cannot stand ABS, but this truck hasn't happened and I've tried! So, the fuse is still in place. ;-)

Yes, I have ABS. Only RWABS though. Even sliding sideways locking them up doing 80 on the highway wasn't enough to trigger them. Fine by me.


Also, when you bleed, the ABS is isolated and will never let air in/out so no worries about that. You could probe each of the reservoirs with 12v power to manually power the ABS unit, but it's a hassle and not worth it.

 

I've always wondered that myself. My VIN says I have ABS, the dealer told me I have an ABS, and the book says that all these 1500's have an ABS, but I can't make it activate. Fine by me, makes winter parking in my driveway easier

 

Quote: **I would suggest NOT pumping pedal to the floor. Only pump 60-75% of the way. The cylinder inside the master cylinder gets a coating of rust that never sees the sleeve. When you push the pedal to the floor when bleeding , it runs that rust bevel through the seals because the pedal is not used to being pushed that far.


Ok, so.. I wish I would have read this before I replaced the calipers. I totally pushed the pedal to the floor at least 4 times. Probably more. What is worst case scenario here with this? Just a bad master cylindar? or worse? How will I know if something went bad because of this?

And... That's not even a big deal for me right now... I got to the last wheel last night (driver's side rear) and went to install my new rotor. She wouldn't go back on to place because the parking break was too far out. Well, no biggy I thought - just turn your star gear, compress er down and be on ur way... Yeah, wrong... The star doesn't turn the adjuster so it must be stripped or... So, now to replace probably the whole setup back there. Lord help me if I have to drop the whole axle to get to this like some people suggest online.

I have a Dodge RAM 2500 (2004). The setup looks like it looks in the vid below. Can I follow this procedure? I really just need to replace the adjuster with the star gear on it to be honest. If any of you know the correct procedure for this on a RAM 2500 that would really help. I haven't found a thing online for this for the RAM 2500.


Vid that is of the most help for this:

 

So, I am almost done with this huge project I have undertaken on my 2004 Dodge RAM 2500 5.9L Cummins. I got to the last wheel last night (driver's side rear) and went to install my new rotor. She wouldn't go back on to place because the parking break was too far out. Well, no biggy I thought - just turn your star gear, compress er down and be on ur way... Yeah, wrong... The star doesn't turn the adjuster so it must be stripped or... So, now to replace probably the whole setup back there. Lord help me if I have to drop the whole axle to get to this like some people suggest online.

I have a Dodge RAM 2500 (2004). The setup looks like it looks in the vid below. Can I follow this procedure? I really just need to replace the adjuster with the star gear on it to be honest. If any of you know the correct procedure for this on a RAM 2500 that would really help. I haven't found a thing online for this for the RAM 2500
.
Vid that is of the most help for this:

 

I had similar issues with mine when I did my rotors, just needed some BMFH tlc and a good soak to loosen everything up, then some grease where appropriate---all better


Just a Heads UP!---------The FSM makes that work a little easier

 

Gone Fishin! You been savin my butt throughout this whole project! I finally got the front end done (new axle shafts and everything) and followed your procedures for those to a tee (with the white lithium coating and all) and it went well. I am so close yet so stinken far away on this. I literally am to the last wheel and I can't seem to get these e brakes collapsed enough to get that last rear rotor on. I sat on that star wheel for a half hour and I can see the adjuster never grips and tightens so I am thinking that it is stripped. Would it be tough to replace just that piece? I am thinking about removing the spring on just that part and seeing if I can't get that adjuster out to replace it. Trouble is, this is looking like a process and if I don't do it correctly it could go south in a hurry.

What is a FSM? I am still a raging noob but know a crap ton about the front end now at least...

 

Ok, so you wanna know something crazy!?! So, I looked at my Chilton's manual, took a deep breath and went back out to attempt to disassemble the star gear thingy so I could take er in and replace it in the morning... Well, for the crap of it, before I started this, I took my two fingers and spun the star gear one more time and then it hit me that it takes just a long stinken time to get that thing to ream down. It turned in, compressed the E brake and voila! Rotor went on!

I promptly went inside and told my wife I was going to finish that side and get this darn truck back on 4 wheels. I tested the function of the E brakes on both rear sides and it gripped when I engaged it and released when I released it. Game on.

So, the front end is pretty much rebuilt at this point and the brake system is over-hauled on this truck!

I am waiting now for my Big D's off road steering stabilizer and I am replacing the steering linkage as well.

Then, the last thing I will do is bleed the brake system (flush it with new fluid). Then its in to town for new tires and an alignment!

Thanks all for your great replies. I could not have done this project without you guys and this site.