04 ram 5.7 Transmission p0700 733 734 735
#11
#12
I paid $5000 total for reman trans and install at the dealership so if you are getting installed for 3-4 you are still saving money. Since they are getting the reman they will probably cover the labor if replacement is necessary. If you buy a reman directly and then have someone install it and its turns out to have a problem you might get a replacement transmission but labor is most likely not going to be covered. Hopefully all goes well.
#14
I assume your trans service at 155k was the first. At that mileage, I would not have done it. My oil change guy keeps trying to get me to flush mine. I have 160k, and trans works great on original fluid. No burnt smell, still cherry red. No way I'm gonna let him do it. I had a 2000 Ram with 175k on it, and let him do the flush. 2 months later, my trans was doing just what you described. Replaced the solenoids, that bought me another month or two, and at that point, it was rebuild time. I got it done for $1800. No problems after that. I traded it in at 198k.
In summary, if you have high mileage and have never serviced the trans, DON'T DO IT!!! If you get 150k out of your trans, consider yourself lucky, and plan for a rebuild in the near future.
In summary, if you have high mileage and have never serviced the trans, DON'T DO IT!!! If you get 150k out of your trans, consider yourself lucky, and plan for a rebuild in the near future.
#15
$1400 is definatly on the low end. The shop could just be trying to drum up some work with attractive pricing. Or they could be using inferior parts. How long have they been in business?? Do they have testimonials?? What kind of warranty, and will they be around long enough to honor it?? Google the shop, and see if there are any reviews. Does the shop look professional, or is it a mess?? Transmission rebuilds need to be done in and almost sterile environment. Any foreign object that makes its way into the guts, could mean serious trouble. I would not hesitate to give the shop my business if my gut tells me they are on the level.
#16
I assume your trans service at 155k was the first. At that mileage, I would not have done it. My oil change guy keeps trying to get me to flush mine. I have 160k, and trans works great on original fluid. No burnt smell, still cherry red. No way I'm gonna let him do it. I had a 2000 Ram with 175k on it, and let him do the flush. 2 months later, my trans was doing just what you described. Replaced the solenoids, that bought me another month or two, and at that point, it was rebuild time. I got it done for $1800. No problems after that. I traded it in at 198k.
In summary, if you have high mileage and have never serviced the trans, DON'T DO IT!!! If you get 150k out of your trans, consider yourself lucky, and plan for a rebuild in the near future.
In summary, if you have high mileage and have never serviced the trans, DON'T DO IT!!! If you get 150k out of your trans, consider yourself lucky, and plan for a rebuild in the near future.
I don't think trans has any major gear issues since first problem completely fixed when new input speed sensor installed. I think it's another sensor issue or electric controller. Smooth shifting before these issues happened so suddenly.
Anything else DIY can check in driveway with trans still on truck, before I put pan back on.
#17
$1400 is definatly on the low end. The shop could just be trying to drum up some work with attractive pricing. Or they could be using inferior parts. How long have they been in business?? Do they have testimonials?? What kind of warranty, and will they be around long enough to honor it?? Google the shop, and see if there are any reviews. Does the shop look professional, or is it a mess?? Transmission rebuilds need to be done in and almost sterile environment. Any foreign object that makes its way into the guts, could mean serious trouble. I would not hesitate to give the shop my business if my gut tells me they are on the level.
I see rebuilt trans for ~$500. Does it require much expertise to drop and install a rebuilt trans. In general, it seems easier than dropping my gas tank to replace gas pump.
#18
I don't know how difficult it would be to swap yourself. I can agree with you on the fuel pump however!!! I went into that project being told it's just a couple of nuts to drop the tank!! That's a load of crap!! That project fought me every step of the way, the worst part being the fuel line that would kink like a soda straw if you tried to bend it in the slightest!!! I am convinced an access panel in the bed would be the best way to go if I ever had to do it again!
I can't remember the names of the two solenoids I replaced. But I know that due to the metallics that were floating around, the one kept failing. I replaced that one 2 or three times. There's a magnetic property about it that would cause it to attract the shavings and short it out. Talk about a PITA to change!! I think it might have been the governor pressure one, but I'm not sure.
I can't remember the names of the two solenoids I replaced. But I know that due to the metallics that were floating around, the one kept failing. I replaced that one 2 or three times. There's a magnetic property about it that would cause it to attract the shavings and short it out. Talk about a PITA to change!! I think it might have been the governor pressure one, but I'm not sure.
#19
I don't know how difficult it would be to swap yourself. I can agree with you on the fuel pump however!!! I went into that project being told it's just a couple of nuts to drop the tank!! That's a load of crap!! That project fought me every step of the way, the worst part being the fuel line that would kink like a soda straw if you tried to bend it in the slightest!!! I am convinced an access panel in the bed would be the best way to go if I ever had to do it again!
I can't remember the names of the two solenoids I replaced. But I know that due to the metallics that were floating around, the one kept failing. I replaced that one 2 or three times. There's a magnetic property about it that would cause it to attract the shavings and short it out. Talk about a PITA to change!! I think it might have been the governor pressure one, but I'm not sure.
I can't remember the names of the two solenoids I replaced. But I know that due to the metallics that were floating around, the one kept failing. I replaced that one 2 or three times. There's a magnetic property about it that would cause it to attract the shavings and short it out. Talk about a PITA to change!! I think it might have been the governor pressure one, but I'm not sure.
Anyway, back to trans, I'm guessing you replaced the solenoid pack behind the plate that connects to the bigger multiwire connector? I'm wondering if my issues are coming from the trans control module itself or that same pack.
My codes/issues don't seem to match any in forums directly and seem to point to electrical.
Knowing i didn't have trans slippage or shift issues before.
got these codes when all of a sudden it felt like gears slipping and rpm's increasing w/out power.
p0700 transaxle control system fault, ie. module may have fault or open circuit in transaxle.
0733,4,5 gear ratios in 3rd gear - trans input/output not same.
tested & replaced input spd sensor - everything was great for a few days.
But codes did not ever reset on own, then all of a sudden, trans shifts great 1-2, but won't shift to 3rd.
replaced pressure sensor (seemed to have bad Ohms, but did not fix problem.)
could internal non-electrical problem happen so suddenly, get fixed by iss, and suddenly have another issue. or should i really be focusing on electrical parts only.