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Waterpump change, suggestions?

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Old 04-05-2014, 09:47 AM
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Default Waterpump change, suggestions?

My waterpump is leaking...It's not coming from the thermostat housing , (It was last year and a new gasket fixed that)...
Anyways, I figure at 197K I might as well replace it and play it safe.. I ordered an OEM waterpump and new thermostat.. I figured it's time to change the belt (never changed). I got a new belt tensioner.. I think there are two other pullys which I probably should change ? The idler pulley and idler assembly. Numbers 5 and 9 on this diagram..Any other suggestions? Am I missing anything?

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Last edited by stenerson; 04-05-2014 at 01:24 PM..
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Old 04-05-2014, 10:53 AM
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hoses...
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Old 04-05-2014, 11:11 AM
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hoses...
You think it's time to replace the hoses?
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Old 04-05-2014, 01:09 PM
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Water pump is definitely common on these, I replaced mine, thinking it was leaking, but it was just the thermostat gasket...unfortunately, I bought the pump at an Auto Value out of town with the intent of changing it out at my uncle's house, but ended up going home to do it...the Auto Value's near my house wouldn't return it, cuz they are independently owned , so I just decided to throw it on since I wouldn't be back near the one I bought it from for quite some time. So I ended up with a perfectly good water pump that I have sitting on my shelf, and I relaly didn't have the money for it in the first place...so I would make sure you know for a fact it is the pump. If you're replacing idler pulleys just because, and at 197k, I'd put a new tensioner (most come with new pulley as well) on it...it would be more important than the idler pulleys, as it is a spring that keep tension on the belt, 197K, spring has to be getting tired.
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Old 04-05-2014, 01:21 PM
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Thanks HemiMoparGuy1981.. I also had the thermostat housing leak a couple years back. I already pulled the plug on replacement parts, figured while everything was out I'd replace other easy stuff.
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Old 04-05-2014, 05:22 PM
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Well with 197K, and the fact that you're draining the system anyway, why not? May save you a real PIA later if an old one lets go in the middle of rush hour traffic on your way home on a Friday afternoon
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Old 04-05-2014, 08:35 PM
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Well with 197K, and the fact that you're draining the system anyway, why not? May save you a real PIA later if an old one lets go in the middle of rush hour traffic on your way home on a Friday afternoon

Good point thanks.
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Old 04-06-2014, 07:01 AM
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Stuff like that always seems to happen when you're in the middle lane of a 5 lane freeway doing 65 mph and the traffic is packed bumper to bumper, and now you have a wash of anti-freeze all over the windshield---------!
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Old 04-06-2014, 08:49 AM
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Good time to flush your cooling system as well and complete it's overhaul.
Use factory HOAT coolant.
Also replace the idlers as well.
Collapsing needle bearings cause one heck of a racket and I've also seen several pulleys take a dump and grenade, throwing the belt and destroying the radiator.
For $25 or so for the pulleys when your this far in, is a no brainer.
Cooling system would be then almost fully serviced.
Good piece of mind.
Al
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Old 04-06-2014, 12:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abarmby View Post
Collapsing needle bearings cause one heck of a racket and I've also seen several pulleys take a dump and grenade, throwing the belt and destroying the radiator.
For $25 or so for the pulleys when your this far in, is a no brainer.
Cooling system would be then almost fully serviced.
Good piece of mind.
Al
Thanks.. I got a new tensioner that comes with the pulley. And I have to get the 2 other idler pulleys (nubers 4 and 9 in the diagram I posted).
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Old 04-07-2014, 03:31 AM
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I did my water pump last autum and couldn't believe how quiet new pulleys tensioner and belt made the truck sound.
I used an OEM pump, thoroughly cleaned the Water pump mounting face on the block and used no sealant on the new WP flexible rubber gasket.
100% good with no leaks.
Just bolt up the pump in a star cross cross pattern to the correct torque specs and you should be good to go.
Also, don't forget to run your heater on full heat and blower to burp your system of air.
Al.
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Old 04-07-2014, 07:39 AM
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Thanks Al. What tool did you use to remove the fan? I got new OEM pump , and dayco tensioner and pulleys.
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Old 04-07-2014, 08:16 AM
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I made my own "red neck spanner".
A peice of 2x4 with a bolt in it jammed down into the crank pulley.
Bolt goes into the fan housing where the blades attach.
This stops the pulley from turning.
I then got a large wrench/spanner and with a BFH, whacked it.
I think I hit it clockwise which freed off the fan.
Hope this helps?
If you search for "Red neck spanner" .... There is a post on this site with pics.
That's where I got the idea from.
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Old 04-07-2014, 11:20 AM
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Thanks again. One last question. I want to replace all the cooling fluid.. How much old fluid will be left in the engine when I drain radiator and remove the hoses?
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Old 04-07-2014, 02:29 PM
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Very little I believe in the block. Lots in the heater core though.
Disconnect the hoses at the firewall to drain the core. Then flush it with a hose, then re-drain again and re-connect.
Best to stick a hose in the opening where the tstat goes and flush. then also in the bottom where it goes into the block via the water pump.
Also flush the rad while your at it the same way. Hose in the top running fresh water allowing it to drain out of the bottom.
Remember, when you put it all back together, there will be air pockets.
I pre-filled the main radiator with coolant and also topped off the tstat housing before putting the new tstat in, minimising this.
You may/may not, see your temp gauge spike when the sender hits an air pocket.
Just run up to temp & feel the top hose that goes into the rad to make sure it gets red hot. That will tell you the tstat has opened.
Top rad hose should feel very hot almost too hot to touch and the hose will feel pressurised. The bottom hose out of the radiator should be a lot cooler.
Keep an eye on your header tank and keep it topped up to the full line.
Several heat cycles of your engine will be necessary to burp all the air out of the system so keep an eye on your coolant level.
As I said earlier, make sure you set your heater on full heat and blower on max as this helps to burp the system.
Hope this helps?
Al.
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Old 04-07-2014, 02:45 PM
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This will help you with the fan removal, This guy used metal to make the redneck spanner, I used wood.
Who's more of a redneck I ask.....even though I'm English ha ha ha ha ha.
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Old 04-07-2014, 04:04 PM
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Thanks...Yep, I ran into that youtube video earlier today, looks very helpful.
My waterpump hasn't arrived but I changed out the tensioner, and the pulleys today..Just took a couple minutes.. They were all shot. Big difference already.
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Old 04-07-2014, 04:59 PM
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God bless Youtube.
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Old 04-07-2014, 07:56 PM
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God bless Youtube.
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Old 04-08-2014, 08:38 PM
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I just used a couple screwdrivers and was able to muscle everything. But Advance and AutoZone have loaner tool kits of spanner wrenches. They cost like $120, but you get all your money back when you return it.

I flushed my whole system with distilled water. Tap water can have minerals that are not good for the aluminum heads and such, and at 88 cents a gallon, it's a pretty cheap insurance. I think I used about 12 gallons of distilled water, I beleive that is including what I mixed with the antifreeze. But I drained everything I could, filled with distilled, ran til it heated up, added as needed due to burping, drained, repeat until I had clear water coming out. Then drained what I could, poured a gallon of straight antifreeze in to mix with the pure water left in the system, then topped off with 50/50 mix and burped the system until it was full.
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