Cam position sensor - Can I bypass?
#1
Cam position sensor - Can I bypass?
I have a 2002 Ram 4.7. I began getting a camshaft/crank position sensor code months ago. After replacing both sensors with no luck I took to local shop. There they replaced the cam sensor harness and also said to have 'straightened out' the tone ring on the cam sprocket. Thus I was up an running for a couple of months before the light came back on AND the truck started to run like crap again (jerks & sputters). The shop said they honestly could not pin point he problem but wanted to replace the timing set (already replaced 20k ago with eng rebuild) @$1700 to 'see if that may fix. Getting to the issue at hand I do not want to dump 1700 into a guess, so through all these trials and tribulations I have discovered that after starting the truck if I unplug the sensor the truck runs perfect.(??)So question is, can I just bypass this sensor somehow, with a toggle switch or something. The rub here is that the truck will not start with the sensor unplugged so I have to plug back in, start, then unplug again. Once I find a mechanic that knows this 4.7 eng well I intend to fix correctly but in the meantime I would like to drive this truck.
Thanks
Thanks
#3
#4
You may get away with it, but I think it still uses the cam position sensor during running to check the timing of things like when to inject fuel, and spark. You may be able to run, but it probably won't run at its optimal as it will probably take a best guess at position when firing those other things, and may not be exact.
#5
P0016 ? Is that the one? If it DOES show a wide degree of difference in the scan tool data, as in double digits or higher, the only way to know is to check visually with the front torn down. There's no peep holes anywhere.
BTW, Beware of aftermarket cam and crank sensors. Can't stress this enough.
BTW, Beware of aftermarket cam and crank sensors. Can't stress this enough.
Last edited by TNtech; 08-26-2014 at 02:03 PM.
#6
It already runs like crap with the sensor connected. Once I disconnect it, it is like night and day. Eventually I will find a place that deals with these engines and try again at a diagnosis...hopefully something other than $1700.
Question is, would I toggle off the power to the sensor or the 'signal wire' that is coming from the sensor?
Question is, would I toggle off the power to the sensor or the 'signal wire' that is coming from the sensor?
#7
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#9
After I start it...I unplug the sensor AND it then runs like it should. No stumbling, missing, ect... It runs smooth & idles smooth. Obviously the sensor is there for a reason but for what I mainly use my truck for now and the cost of what the one shop wanted to charge me to 'maybe' fix it ($1700), bypassing this sensor seems like the way to go for now.
Toggle the power to the sensor or the signal from the sensor?
Toggle the power to the sensor or the signal from the sensor?
#10
Well, if you really want to patch the problem and run without a sensor...
I would wire up a momentary switch instead of a toggle switch.
You can wire it up so that it provides power to the sensor while cranking and cuts off a few seconds after the truck is running by use of a capacitor in the powered line of the momentary switch. This will be a permanent/patch solution so you will never have to flip a switch on/off every stinkin time.
You can get a momentary switch at auto parts store and a capacitor at RadioShack, or both at Radioshack.
I think a 1200uf should allow the sensor to have signal for a few seconds after start. Without sitting down and calculating the capacitance needed, it'll be trial and error but luckily the caps are cheap enough for you to just see what works best.
I would wire up a momentary switch instead of a toggle switch.
You can wire it up so that it provides power to the sensor while cranking and cuts off a few seconds after the truck is running by use of a capacitor in the powered line of the momentary switch. This will be a permanent/patch solution so you will never have to flip a switch on/off every stinkin time.
You can get a momentary switch at auto parts store and a capacitor at RadioShack, or both at Radioshack.
I think a 1200uf should allow the sensor to have signal for a few seconds after start. Without sitting down and calculating the capacitance needed, it'll be trial and error but luckily the caps are cheap enough for you to just see what works best.
Last edited by dirtydog; 08-28-2014 at 09:50 AM.