I have an 08 5.7L 4x4 with just over 100K miles. It's recently developed a fairly loud tick at cold startup that disappears a short time later. I'm reasonably sure it's an exhaust leak. After searching a bit, I've discovered that I likely have broken manifold studs. I crawled under the truck this weekend to take a peek. One of the heat shield bolts is broken off, but I didn't dig much further.

Replacement of the bolts doesn't seem to be anything that I can't handle unless the bolt is broken off flush with the head. Even then, I should be able to get it out.

The problem is, the rest of my exhaust is SEVERELY corroded. It's still intact, but there is NO way I can disassemble parts of it without other parts crumbling to dust.

I'd like to take advantage of the work I have to do anyway, and replace the entire exhaust system...engine back.

So here is my dilemma. I want to keep it relatively quiet (when cruising down the highway). As is, it has a nice throaty growl, but it isn't too loud when driving down the road. It looks like factory exhaust, but it doesn't sound like it. The only thing that doesn't look factory is the tips. Could the tips be where the volume is coming from?

I want a throaty tone, like a truck should sound, but I don't want it to be obscene...I'm not after volume, just tone.

I don't want to have to buy a tuner at this point. I will in the future, but I can only buy the exhaust for now.

I'm prepared to spend up to $1500 for the exhaust.

Is there a full bolt-on system out there that won't require a tuner and won't turn on the CEL?

 

So are you wanting a full system from the engine back? As long as you keep a catalytic converter in ther system, there will be no issue with a CEL for the O2 sensors. Especially if you live in an area with emissions inspections, you will have to have the converter installed. If the existing converter is ok, re-use it. Get some shorty headers, a new downpipe/Y-Pipe and then a nice catback system.

 

I live in NE, no inspection. I'm going off of memory here so bear with me. There are two large diameter objects rearward of the manifolds. I assumed those were cats. If so, it doesn't look like there's much reusing to them. They're severely corroded. Is there a third cat or am I correct in identifying the two other devices?

 

If the cats are severely corroded, to the point that they won't work, or you're getting codes, there's a good chance they may be under warranty, if I'm not mistaken, federal law mandates that they have to last 10 years. At least worth checking out.

 

I'm not getting any codes, but I don't think I could get them separated from the rest of the system without them crumbling to pieces. Even if I did, I highly doubt I'd be able to get them to seal to headers.

 

Ditch the manifolds and get some long tube headers. A lot of people go for the pacesetter long tubes; I opted for the obx long tubes which come with a y-pipe for one major reason. Everything bolts up to your stock exhaust! I was able to install everything without a welder on my driveway, granted its a good idea to weld the y-pipe up once you get the geometry you want to prevent leaks from the clamps that are provided. After the y-pipe, it's all up to you on what you wanna do for sound. I can't give you an opinion on a muffler on the quieter side as I have an AT3030. Combine that short muffler with no cats and long tubes and it's pretty damn loud. But I think it sounds wicked and, from stock, a very noticeable power improvement mainly after 3500 rpm. Overall cost for the obx longtubes to canada in my case was 700 bucks shipped with the included y-pipe and everything bolted up very nicely.

Edit: If you opt for any type of headers, make sure to use and replace your header gaskets with genuine mopar ones; those included in any headers I have bought in the past have been garbage

 

Do the Pacesetter LT's require anything other than sensor extensions as far as the computer goes? I don't want the CEL coming on.

 

Must have the O2 sensor bungs on them and, depending on their location relative to stock, you may or may not need extension wires.

 

You can always splice some wire into the existing o2 sensor if the harnesses are too short as well.